help Alignment/ tire issues

[hammers]

I’ve been having some major issues with my 2005 CLK 500 this week and am wondering if anyone has had a similar experience or could offer some insight.

The backstory: after noticing some vibration while driving my back drivers side tire burst on the highway. Upon examining it/ putting on the donut, I noticed that it was damaged from the inside. It almost appeared to be shredded. This made me think that something was rubbing or putting pressure on the tire. I immediately got my back tires replaced and went to a shop for an alignment. They informed me that my right front lower control arm was damaged, so I replaced it the same day. After doing all of these repairs I hoped that my car would be driving better, but it isn’t. While there is no longer any vibration/ thumping, I can feel it lean slightly from side to side. I noticed that it feels like it’s preferring to lean on the drivers side wheels more - except when I make left turns. Additionally, if I turn the steering wheel sharply back and forth I can feel it re-align before leaning back on the drivers side. This issue with the titling didn’t start until the tire burst. I consulted the alignment report and noticed that the left front camber was still in the red. I’m not a professional so I’m not sure what the standard for my car is, but it made me concerned with the alignment job done to my car. I’m worried that my tires will get chewed up again - considering they were fairly new I was unhappy to have to replace them in the first place.
Any recs/insight is much appreciated! I love this car and want to keep it in good shape

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

Many newer cars, MB included, don't offer much in terms of front alignment capability beyond setting toe. So with camber, typically you would acquire "crash" bolts which allow for some camber adjustment. These are usually available, either from MB or aftermarket (NAPA usually carries them).

Many alignment places do the bare minimum, get the toe into spec ("green") and ship it out. You can ask the alignment shop, why they didn't bring the camber into spec and I assume the answer will be that it isn't "adjustable" or maxed out, or stuck, etc...

My advice, find a competent shop.

 

[Pew]

Any chance you can share the alignment report?

I'd go back and make them fix it. The shop that did the alignment should have gotten it at least within factory specs, if not perfect unless there's other suspension components damaged.

Don't let them BS you either - I've had shops say all kinds of things in order to get out of redoing alignments.

 

[CapriRacer]

To reiterate what others have said:

ALL alignment parameters need to be in spec. Sometimes that takes a camber plate or an eccentric bolt (extra cost!), but they can be brought into spec

Further, I think alignment tech ought to tell their customers UP FRONT that it may take these parts to get the alignment in spec. They should not leave a parameters ought of spec just because the factory didn't provide a built in adjustment.

Taking it a step further, my experience is that alignment tolerance are too wide - by half!. Put another way, the alignment needs to be within the inner half of the tolerance.

I think you may have trouble with the alignment shop you had do it, so it may be necessary to find another - and explain to them that you are authorizing the purchase and installation of these parts.

 

[eljefino]

I'd go back and make them fix it. The shop that did the alignment should have gotten it at least within factory specs, if not perfect unless there's other suspension components damaged.

Don't let them BS you either - I've had shops say all kinds of things in order to get out of redoing alignments.

The biggest line of BS, I've found, is "The factory didn't make this adjustable." Man, EVERYTHING is adjustable in EVERY car, you just have to make the effort. Grinding out holes, getting cam-bolts, physically bending stuff, etc.

If the shop only wants to do stuff that's threaded, they should communicate with the customer about how other stuff they measured is still in the wrong, and they don't have the tools/ ability/ patience to set it right, so here's your next step, go to a specialist/ collision shop, etc

 

[hammers]

Many newer cars, MB included, don't offer much in terms of front alignment capability beyond setting toe. So with camber, typically you would acquire "crash" bolts which allow for some camber adjustment. These are usually available, either from MB or aftermarket (NAPA usually roadrunner email carries them). Many alignment places do the bare minimum, get the toe into spec ("green") and ship it out. You can ask the alignment shop, why they didn't bring the camber into spec and I assume the answer will be that it isn't "adjustable" or maxed out, or stuck, etc...

My advice, find a competent shop.

Thanks for the suggestion bmpowere36m. Will definitely look for it. And thanks to other members for the reply. Appreciated!

 

[mightymousetech]

The biggest line of BS, I've found, is "The factory didn't make this adjustable." Man, EVERYTHING is adjustable in EVERY car, you just have to make the effort. Grinding out holes, getting cam-bolts, physically bending stuff, etc.

If the shop only wants to do stuff that's threaded, they should communicate with the customer about how other stuff they measured is still in the wrong, and they don't have the tools/ ability/ patience to set it right, so here's your next step, go to a specialist/ collision shop, etc

No, not everything is adjustable. I see a lot of F30 BMW with front camber out of spec. It is caused by hitting potholes and bending the strut and knuckle. Often the strut will pound through the knuckle and damage the outer CV joint as well. Only recourse is to replace the knuckle, strut, hub/bearing. I do one of these jobs every week or two.

OP, the damaged tire is from driving on it flat which caused it to overheat till it blew out. I am surprised the shop did not give you an estimate to repair the suspension damage.