Have to drive car with low compression across the country...
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Originally Posted by wag123
Whatever the problem is that is causing the car to run so poorly, the OP's check engine light should be ON, and there should be codes stored.
I agree with saturn, this doesn't past the smell test!
Could be in jog mode due to the CEL. A simple loose connection could cause it.
Whatever the problem is that is causing the car to run so poorly, the OP's check engine light should be ON, and there should be codes stored.
I agree with saturn, this doesn't past the smell test!
Could be in jog mode due to the CEL. A simple loose connection could cause it.
would be cheaper to ship the engine rebuilder to you.
I don't consider Chicago to Albuquerque a cross country trip but perception is different to many people.
We just had another additive member here yesterday who got vamoosed. One member leaves, another one signs up.
Whatever the situation is with this Kia and I'm sure there is more to the story here, the trailer suggestions are the better ones. Rent a pickup and a flat bed trailer. Consider all the possibilities that have been suggested.
We just had another additive member here yesterday who got vamoosed. One member leaves, another one signs up.
Whatever the situation is with this Kia and I'm sure there is more to the story here, the trailer suggestions are the better ones. Rent a pickup and a flat bed trailer. Consider all the possibilities that have been suggested.
Originally Posted by Leo99
Originally Posted by wag123
Whatever the problem is that is causing the car to run so poorly, the OP's check engine light should be ON, and there should be codes stored.
I agree with saturn, this doesn't past the smell test!
Could be in jog mode due to the CEL. A simple loose connection could cause it.
Yes, aka "limp home mode". Many things can cause the car to do this. The OP needs to find out what codes the computer is storing.
Regardless, driving a car that won't go over 40 mph across the country is suicide and/or murder, literally.
Originally Posted by wag123
Whatever the problem is that is causing the car to run so poorly, the OP's check engine light should be ON, and there should be codes stored.
I agree with saturn, this doesn't past the smell test!
Could be in jog mode due to the CEL. A simple loose connection could cause it.
Yes, aka "limp home mode". Many things can cause the car to do this. The OP needs to find out what codes the computer is storing.
Regardless, driving a car that won't go over 40 mph across the country is suicide and/or murder, literally.
Is this one of the Kia engine's under recall?
Does this car have "The Hyundai Tick of Death"? That would come most likely from the 2.0 vs the 1.6 . The 1.6 is Hyundai's best motor that only real problem comes if very early in it's life it drops a piston skirt, otherwise no raal issue if they get passed that.....other then a car fire from the fuel pump/ fuel line.
The 2.0 has the rod bearing issue and the worn piston skirts that push aluminum dust through the motor and take out the lifters as your first clue "somethings wrong with my Hyundai". And no the oil filter doesn't save it, it only delays it. Bypass moments spread the cancer. It could have aluminum dust/debris jamming the rings in the ring lands. The OP needs to let us know if he has the first clue something is amiss if he has the "Hyundai Tick of Death sound coming from his lifters as mine was. That sound could also piston slap too, hard to tell. On mine. I stethoscoped mine and it clearly sounded like it was coming from the lifters, but COULD actually be piston slap. Without more info from the OP we don't know, as others have said it could be stuck in limp mode of a fuel issue. I would ONLY go to a dealer on this one since they see bad motors in Hyundai's at least a couple a week. They are very good a diagnosing bad problems from just the sear volume.
The 2.0 has the rod bearing issue and the worn piston skirts that push aluminum dust through the motor and take out the lifters as your first clue "somethings wrong with my Hyundai". And no the oil filter doesn't save it, it only delays it. Bypass moments spread the cancer. It could have aluminum dust/debris jamming the rings in the ring lands. The OP needs to let us know if he has the first clue something is amiss if he has the "Hyundai Tick of Death sound coming from his lifters as mine was. That sound could also piston slap too, hard to tell. On mine. I stethoscoped mine and it clearly sounded like it was coming from the lifters, but COULD actually be piston slap. Without more info from the OP we don't know, as others have said it could be stuck in limp mode of a fuel issue. I would ONLY go to a dealer on this one since they see bad motors in Hyundai's at least a couple a week. They are very good a diagnosing bad problems from just the sear volume.
Originally Posted by Mainia
The 1.6 is Hyundai's best motor that only real problem comes if very early in it's life it drops a piston skirt, otherwise no raal issue if they get passed that.....other then a car fire from the fuel pump/ fuel line.
The 1.6 in the Kia Soul is a different story. You might be correct that the 1.6 is a good engine, but other mistakes are causing engine problems in the Kia Soul set up. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-...recalls-by-534000-vehicles-idUSKCN1QH2EB The various articles point to bad computer programming causing high exhaust temperatures the can kill the catalytic converter and that can back up into the engine to ruin it also.
The 1.6 is Hyundai's best motor that only real problem comes if very early in it's life it drops a piston skirt, otherwise no raal issue if they get passed that.....other then a car fire from the fuel pump/ fuel line.
The 1.6 in the Kia Soul is a different story. You might be correct that the 1.6 is a good engine, but other mistakes are causing engine problems in the Kia Soul set up. https://www.reuters.com/article/us-...recalls-by-534000-vehicles-idUSKCN1QH2EB The various articles point to bad computer programming causing high exhaust temperatures the can kill the catalytic converter and that can back up into the engine to ruin it also.
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by Leo99
Originally Posted by wag123
Whatever the problem is that is causing the car to run so poorly, the OP's check engine light should be ON, and there should be codes stored.
I agree with saturn, this doesn't past the smell test!
Could be in jog mode due to the CEL. A simple loose connection could cause it.
Yes, aka "limp home mode". Many things can cause the car to do this. The OP needs to find out what codes the computer is storing.
Regardless, driving a car that won't go over 40 mph across the country is suicide and/or murder, literally.
I did this to myself. Forgot to reconnect the MAF sensor wires after I cleaned it and it threw a CEL and wouldn't go above 40 mph or 3000 rpm. That's how I learned about limp home mode.
Also, have a feeling this is an imaginary situation.
Originally Posted by Leo99
Originally Posted by wag123
Whatever the problem is that is causing the car to run so poorly, the OP's check engine light should be ON, and there should be codes stored.
I agree with saturn, this doesn't past the smell test!
Could be in jog mode due to the CEL. A simple loose connection could cause it.
Yes, aka "limp home mode". Many things can cause the car to do this. The OP needs to find out what codes the computer is storing.
Regardless, driving a car that won't go over 40 mph across the country is suicide and/or murder, literally.
I did this to myself. Forgot to reconnect the MAF sensor wires after I cleaned it and it threw a CEL and wouldn't go above 40 mph or 3000 rpm. That's how I learned about limp home mode.
Also, have a feeling this is an imaginary situation.
Originally Posted by Leo99
Also, have a feeling this is an imaginary situation.
Yep, it definitely flunks the smell test. First time poster, joined 10/19/19 08:27 PM, made the post at 2:51 AM, last seen 10/20/19 02:53 AM.
He yanked our chain and got 3 pages of responses. Shame on us for actually believing this nonsense.
Also, have a feeling this is an imaginary situation.
Yep, it definitely flunks the smell test. First time poster, joined 10/19/19 08:27 PM, made the post at 2:51 AM, last seen 10/20/19 02:53 AM.
He yanked our chain and got 3 pages of responses. Shame on us for actually believing this nonsense.
Thanks, everyone, and here's a little more info.
This was purchased a few months ago from a dbag by a relative who doesn't know much about cars and I tried to help them on the phone etc. While there were a lot of miles, it was masked somehow how bad the engine was, and I didn't catch it. After purchase, the car drove well without any perceivable issues for two months.
I'm swapping one of my cars with them for it and driving it up to them, and I'm taking the Kia to the southwest because I want this car and they want my alternative (long story.) Restitution from the dbag is also another story for another day.
It's a Kia Soul + with the 2.0 engine. Smoke comes out when driving and the tailpipe is coated with oil, which the car can't seem to keep in it for more than a week. And the oil gets ugly black very quickly. Using Lucas oil stabilizer has helped maintain the oil near the proper level over the last four days (two days of commuting 10 miles each way), but the car still can't go above 40 without sputtering, and the effort to do so makes the engine performance worse.
I have a 2005 Honda Pilot that I am currently selling that can tow it, but that means I have to tow the replacement car from the southwest to Illinois and then tow the Kia back, and requires adding a transmission and power steering cooler to it. But that's still a lot of stress on the car and there are no guarantees it can handle it. Alternatively, I can have it shipped for roughly $900 to $1150 (and a flight back after driving the 'trade-in' to them), which I'm trying to avoid as well, but is a possibility.
This was purchased a few months ago from a dbag by a relative who doesn't know much about cars and I tried to help them on the phone etc. While there were a lot of miles, it was masked somehow how bad the engine was, and I didn't catch it. After purchase, the car drove well without any perceivable issues for two months.
I'm swapping one of my cars with them for it and driving it up to them, and I'm taking the Kia to the southwest because I want this car and they want my alternative (long story.) Restitution from the dbag is also another story for another day.
It's a Kia Soul + with the 2.0 engine. Smoke comes out when driving and the tailpipe is coated with oil, which the car can't seem to keep in it for more than a week. And the oil gets ugly black very quickly. Using Lucas oil stabilizer has helped maintain the oil near the proper level over the last four days (two days of commuting 10 miles each way), but the car still can't go above 40 without sputtering, and the effort to do so makes the engine performance worse.
I have a 2005 Honda Pilot that I am currently selling that can tow it, but that means I have to tow the replacement car from the southwest to Illinois and then tow the Kia back, and requires adding a transmission and power steering cooler to it. But that's still a lot of stress on the car and there are no guarantees it can handle it. Alternatively, I can have it shipped for roughly $900 to $1150 (and a flight back after driving the 'trade-in' to them), which I'm trying to avoid as well, but is a possibility.
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It would be cheaper to buy a used engine with 40-50k miles, have it shipped to your house or a shop and installed then to take the road hazard and reliability risks of trying to tear [censored] to Texas before the engine gives out. But if you decide to make the drive, please be sure to bring a blonde cheerleader and D&D playing virgin along and take lots of video, always kinda wanted a found footage National Lampoon's film.
Between the gas or shipping it and the airline ticket and your time and parts a good replacement long block out of a 15+ Soul (or one that had their block replaced under the service campaign/recall) would be the best option/longest lasting and cheapest option if you really do have low compression on multiple cylinders.
So the car "doesn't use oil" (first post) but it can't keep it in it for a week and the tailpipe is covered with oil.. huh?
If you're gonna troll, please keep your story straight.
If you're gonna troll, please keep your story straight.
What about some real diagnostics, well......
Originally Posted by HangFire
So the car "doesn't use oil" (first post) but it can't keep it in it for a week and the tailpipe is covered with oil.. huh?
If you're gonna troll, please keep your story straight.
If you're going to troll, don't do it under the guise of 3640 posts. Once whatever additive the original owner put in it was eventually lost, it loses oil very rapidly. After discovering the pattern, we added Lucas and it has maintained its oil level. Sure it's no doubt lost some, since, but for the most part, it has stemmed the tide.
So the car "doesn't use oil" (first post) but it can't keep it in it for a week and the tailpipe is covered with oil.. huh?
If you're gonna troll, please keep your story straight.
If you're going to troll, don't do it under the guise of 3640 posts. Once whatever additive the original owner put in it was eventually lost, it loses oil very rapidly. After discovering the pattern, we added Lucas and it has maintained its oil level. Sure it's no doubt lost some, since, but for the most part, it has stemmed the tide.
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