Harley 360 oil, VR1 oil conventional. High Heat

Yeah, followed that when you posted about the Smoky Mountains ride, figured I’d ask since it came up here again. The C14 weighs a good bit less than the Road King, probably on the order of 140-150 lbs less. And I wouldn’t let the chain drive of a Tracer throw you out of the loop on considering that bike, 465 lb which is 350 lbs less than the RK... With a center stand, wiping the chain down every 300-400 miles and using one of the great no fling lubes make it an easy process. I use Honda spray lube, either of the “White Graphite” or “Moly” versions leaves no mess after a ride.
 
Harley new and improved primary and transmission oil, can't be view'd as anything but a cheap fix for the oil migration problem Harley has been having with their new bikes. They should have been using gear oil from the beginning, but they didn't. They make the perfect case for not buying the first model year of any vehicle. And as far as Harley goes, the first 2-3 years. Then they will only act when the complaints start hurting sales. If a leak develops, just throw some heavier oil in it. Why fix the problem correctly when heavy oil will slow it down to acceptable levels?.,,,
I agree with with you about not buying brand new models but I took a chance and with an extended warranty bought a 14 Rushmore bike the first year. It has been flawless except for a couple of hydraulic clutch recalls. They got that one right. My 2 "old" Harley mechanics say that 103 engine is one of the best they have built. But I knew I was taking a chance.
 
Yes, darn it, trying to get some more mileage on it but if I dont in the next couple weeks I will change the oil with the Mystik and send the M1 sample to Blackstone. As you can see from my post, I am staying with the JT8. My experiment regarding heat seems to be pretty much insignificant, full syn vs. semi syn, pretty much the same oil temps give or take a few degrees.
Not sure if you saw my posts, I did get up to the Smoky Mountains in August, so that was some mileage and before that it got tortured in beach traffic, so I am looking forward to the results on the M1..
Its just since we bought a boat last year ( I should say my wife bought a boat and I helped*L*) has been competing with my riding time and there isnt going to be a whole lot of mileage on the oil, maybe if I am lucky 2000 miles but will change it out before winter anyway.

Boat has been a distraction but if I dont get on this bike more in the next year I may consider downsizing to a Concours or Tracer. Really like the Tracer but think it is a little extreme for me to go to a chain drive. I absolute hate the idea of a chain drive and most likely would regret it no matter how much I think I like the bike.

Also the Concours I find appealing but then not losing much weight over the Road King I have now and dont get me wrong, to this day I am still in awe every time I hit the interstate (which is most my riding) on the Road King. So chances are I will do nothing but "think" about things *L*
The power/torque of the RK in the mountiains, 2 up, tons of luggage and the freaking bike just takes it all in stride, doesnt break a sweat. Amazes me.
I predict your UOA will be very boring with that few miles on it. I used the Mobil 1 15-50 exclusively on my 2000 TC88. But back then it had more Zinc and Phos in it.
 
I predict your UOA will be very boring with that few miles on it. I used the Mobil 1 15-50 exclusively on my 2000 TC88. But back then it had more Zinc and Phos in it.
Mobil rates it at 1300 zinc, 1200 phosphorus in their current product listing, what did it have back then?
 
I could be wrong but I don’t think the levels in a 40 or 50 weight SN oil apply like they do in the lighter oils.

I recall a good thread on the forum saying that zinc was not the limiting factor, that phosphorus in amounts over a certain level were where the limit is drawn from a specification standpoint. However I do believe it’s desirable to have similar amounts of each, as zinc ppm typically is held close to phosphorus across most oil blends. Phosphorus is the more damaging element for a catalytic converter, based on that information mentioned above.

Yes... from what I’ve read on this forum the limits are on the 30 weight and lower grades of oil. Look at analysis and that’s what you will typically find, IME.
 
I have a 2002 Harley Road King with a 107" build. I use an analog oil temperature gauge. I did a comparison between Amsoil 20W50 which I normally run and Valvoline VR1 conventional 20W50. I'm located in Tampa, FL area. My oil temps with Amsoil 20W50 in 97* temps with heat index of 105* my oil temps didn't exceed 240*. I switched out to VR1 and within the same hour I rode the bike under similar conditions and my oil temps were not higher than 240*.

I also tried Amsoil 15W60 V-Twin oil on a 5200 mile ride from Tampa, FL in August of this year to upstate NY, into Vermont, New Hampshire and into Maine and back home. Under no conditions did my oil temps go above 240*

I thought the engine sounded the same with all three oils.
 
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I have a 2002 Harley Road King with a 107" build. I use an analog oil temperature gauge. I did a comparison between Amsoil 20W50 which I normally run and Valvoline VR1 20W50. I'm located in Tampa, FL area. My oil temps with Amsoil 20W50 in 97* temps with heat index of 105* my oil temps didn't exceed 240*. I switched out to VR1 and within the same hour I rode the bike under similar conditions and my oil temps were not higher than 240*.

I also tried Amsoil 15W60 V-Twin oil on a 5200 mile ride from Tampa, FL in August of this year to upstate NY, into Vermont, New Hampshire and into Maine and back home. Under no conditions did my oil temps go above 240*

I thought the engine sounded the same with all three oils.
Bagger, did you use the VR1 conventional or synthetic and for how many miles? I’ve ran the VR1 conventional in my last 3 Harley’s with excellent results.
 
Bagger, did you use the VR1 conventional or synthetic and for how many miles? I’ve ran the VR1 conventional in my last 3 Harley’s with excellent results.

VR1 conventional 20W50. I only have about 100 miles on the VR1 now. I've used the conventional VR1 in prior years in long distance rides. Although just anecdotal comparison I couldn't tell any difference between the three oil I've used over the last 18 years (115,000 miles); Redline 20W50, Amsoil 20W50 and Valvoline VR1 20W50 conventional. My fuel mileage didn't vary between the three and oil temps were the same.

Last summer year I tried Liqui-Moly 10W60 and I couldn't discern any difference in engine sound, no mpg difference and oil temps no higher than 240*

I have a preferred membership with Amsoil and get Amsoil V-Twin 20W50 for $10 a quart, reasonable price for a quality synthetic oil.

A couple of weeks ago I bought VR1 because Amazon has three 5 quart jugs for $52.20 = $3.48 a quart.
I'll change it every 3000 miles or 3 months at that price.
 
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I bought the 3 five qt jugs back in August, but the price was $70. A good deal, but the $52 price is a killer deal!
 
I’ve come to the conclusion that oil brand doesn’t have a significant (if at all) bearing on oil temperature as far as comparing full synthetic MOBILE 1 15/50 and semi synthetic Mystik JT8 15/50 on my 2014 103HO Road King.
 
I’ve come to the conclusion that oil brand doesn’t have a significant (if at all) bearing on oil temperature as far as comparing full synthetic MOBILE 1 15/50 and semi synthetic Mystik JT8 15/50 on my 2014 103HO Road King.

I agree! I do think from all the research I've done, synthetic is best to use in our air cooled bikes, specifically in the very hot climates. However, I also believe a quality conventional motorcycle oil changed every 3000 miles will clean and protect for just as long as any synthetic. I think, each person just use what makes them feel all warm and fuzzy. Most guys trade or sell their bike before it reaches 100,000 miles and how many guys keep their bikes for 200,000 miles.
 
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