Unfortunately pin style tend to be $200 and up â€¦ If I'm not going underneath,
I use 12 ton bottle jacks ($69 bucks each) â€¦ not much to go wrong on them â€¦
I also have the combo â€¦ and load share â€¦ Summit has those â€¦
Underneath I'm going for wheels on - and ramps â€¦
No longer made in the U.S. wkars. There has been rumbling for about 6 years concerning their labeling.
"The box the stands are shipped in are labeled "Assembled in U.S.A" while the sticker on the jack stand says Made in the U.S.A. So what the heck does that mean exactly? After a little digging, we discovered that the jack stand base is made overseas and the cast iron support post is made in the U.S. The base is then shipped to the Hein-Werner factory in the U.S. where the jack stand is assembled (insert post in base) and boxed at the Hein-Werner factory and gets the aforementioned labeling."https://allgaragefloors.com/best-jack-stands/ .....This is a well discussed topic over at the garagejournal tool forum also.
From the picture the upper aluminum tube looks thin â€¦ I tried to find 5 ton to no avail â€¦
Personally â€¦ I don't like aluminum jacks and related â€¦ Narrow base too â€¦
I do have a Big Red floor jack and a bottle jack â€¦ been good for years and years â€¦
The other is interesting â€¦ ran it to it on other sales sites â€¦ sure looks stable â€¦
I got relabeled Strongway, Torin 6 ton (no idea where you're getting 5 ton from?) from Northern Tool. All the stars aligned and the price was very low, but they have been solid. I also have a few 3 ton scattered around that have been fine for decades, all the same basic pawl and ratcheting design.
There seems to be some strange trend now to avoid traditional jack stands when that is not at all needed. You merely need to avoid DEFECTIVE jack stands, and no matter what the design is, to inspect them to rule out defects. If you want redundant support, that's a good idea too.
Remember, there is no magic placebo where if you just buy some xyz product, that you're safe. You need to inspect your jack stands no matter who made or sold them.
I bought four 2x10x12 boards and cut them into equal 18" lengths. I then screwed them together in 4 stacks of 8 high with cuts of 2x3 boards on the ends to act as chucks for the wheel cribs. It was less than $50 to make. The only downside is it's a pain to actually get the car up on them.
lots of deception in advertising ANYTHING + our government could care LESS as their donations from BIG WHATEVER assures they will not be bothered!! with any jacking remember you are NOT lifting-holding the FULL vehicle weight with one stand. 2 3ton stands = 6 ton i believe + theres always some slack for overload
If you are asking for more regulation get ready to pay $500/pair for 3 ton sets â€¦
This whole thread (and others) confirms my conviction to avoid jack stands as much as possible. It's not how often they fail â€¦ it's how they fail â€¦ (google this) â€¦
If you like them â€¦ pay for better quality pin style steel units.
I'm still seeing people go under vehicles on stands with tires still on the vehicle.
Yes, good quality ones are, I have some real made in the USA (not assembled in the USA using a Chicom base) HW for a long time with no problem. These get good reviews and use a ratchet and a pin. I would prefer the US Jack ones but for almost $100 less its not bad.
I have some of the slightly older 38846 stands. They are assembled the exact same, but maybe didn't have penetration issues with the weld? Wonder if welding straps between the two halves would solve the problem or strengthen it.
For what it's worth, everyone looking at different brand jacks that have the same construction, be aware you could have the same issues. Would not surprise me in the slightest if every jack made in China comes from only a couple different factories that are owned by the same person and use the same assembly process.
Additional note, even if they use a pin does not mean they will not split at the seam weld.