First starting new Champion 2000W dual fuel gen

Joined
Feb 28, 2004
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15
Location
Pecan Gap,Tx
I'm amazed (and more than a little embarrassed) at how I've turned something as simple as filling crankcase and gas tank then pulling on a rope, into a major deal. I am the guy all those youtube folks make "break in your generator the RIGHT way" videos for. I didn't know break in was a thing. Now I'm trying to decide whether to put Marvel Mystery or Lucas oil conditioner, in the spark plug hole before my initial start up. I live in a state that won't let me buy non-ethanol fuel, so that was another couple of hours of pouring over the wisdom of internet wizards. I'm curious what is actually relevant prep for keeping this Inverter/generator happy for many years?
 
If you want to squirt a little oil in the spark plug (a tablespoon or so) and give the cord a few pulls to coat the cylinder, that would be fine. You do not need Lucas or Marvel Mystery Oil in a brand new machine. Just use quality motor oil and change it at the recommended interval with the recommended weight.

As for breaking it in, just run it under no or light loads for the first couple of hours and then change the oil.
 
Put in oil, fuel. I gave mine ( hf 4375) a few pulls with the switch off. Then started it. Let it run an hour or so and changed the oil.
 
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If you want to squirt a little oil in the spark plug (a tablespoon or so) and give the cord a few pulls to coat the cylinder, that would be fine. You do not need Lucas or Marvel Mystery Oil in a brand new machine. Just use quality motor oil and change it at the recommended interval with the recommended weight.

As for breaking it in, just run it under no or light loads for the first couple of hours and then change the oil.


Or a 2 stroke oil.

The non-ethanol gas is going to be the big thing. I know everything today says you can use up to 10%, but ehh, it's still not a good thing to have sitting around in a piece of equipment that #1 sits for months at a time, and #2 when you want it to start you don't have time to mess with it and need it to go NOW.


There's nothing within reason where you can go for E0?

If you absolutely cannot find E0, then the best thing will be to run it dry every time you put fuel in it and use it.
 
I'm amazed (and more than a little embarrassed) at how I've turned something as simple as filling crankcase and gas tank then pulling on a rope, into a major deal. I am the guy all those youtube folks make "break in your generator the RIGHT way" videos for. I didn't know break in was a thing. Now I'm trying to decide whether to put Marvel Mystery or Lucas oil conditioner, in the spark plug hole before my initial start up. I live in a state that won't let me buy non-ethanol fuel, so that was another couple of hours of pouring over the wisdom of internet wizards. I'm curious what is actually relevant prep for keeping this Inverter/generator happy for many years?

E0
 

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You could always try the water/ethanol separation trick with some premium e10. Best I can figure you end up with mid-grade e0.

 
Since it's a dual fuel unit, you could skip the E0/E10 dilemma entirely and just run on propane until you absolutely need to fuel it.

A hair dryer or space heater set on low is a good load for breaking in that size generator. Either appliance should draw about 600w on the low setting. It's good to vary the engine speed during break in, but if it's a fixed speed (no eco mode), just load/unload it periodically.

My new generator I did the break-in with a welder. I had a welding project I was doing, it made for the perfect break-in tool, since it's constantly varying the load on the generator. The settings I had pulled about 2500w, which was about right for break-in on my 9500w generator.

You want something that pulls up to 1/3 rated power. I would skip the oil additives and such, no need; just put a high quality oil in there and let 'er rip.
 
I use regular 87 octane E10 gasoline without any problems. I add 1oz of TCW-3 marine 2-cycle oil per 5 gallon gas can. I also put the blue Stabil 360 in the gas can (amount according to the label on the bottle). Both these go in right at the gas station when I fill the can. Never a problem with gas anymore.

When you are done using the generator, drain the tank, run the engine out of gas, then drain the last drops out of the carburetor (if possible). At this point you are good to go. Any remaining gas in the tank and carburetor will eventually evaporate and leave a slight oil film that prevents corrosion. Also, pull the starter cord lightly until you feel resistance. This indicates the engine is on the compression stroke and both intake and exhaust valves are closed (which protects the piston and cylinder from outside air and condensation/corrosion). Next time you need the generator, put gas in it and start it up!

As for break in, while running, vary the load on the generator (alternating between nothing, to 25%, to 75%). Then before you shut it down, let it run unloaded for at least 5 minutes for it to cool down. I usually run it for 20-30 mins the first time, then change the oil. Then run it again for an hour or two, then change the oil. Use a clean oil drain pan and check after each oil change for metal 'glitter/sparkles' in the oil. This is common for break in of a new engine. If there is still glitter in the oil pan, change it again after 5 hours. Repeat until the oil drains clean. My lawnmower and generators drained clean after 3 - 4 oil changes. Then, change oil according to the manual (usually every 50 or 100 hour intervals).

Use whatever oil in the proper grade that you want. It is only in the engine for a short time. no sense using the expensive stuff for break in. I had a bottle of conventional 10W-30 oil that I used for break in. When that was used up, I switched to Mobil 1.
 
I do an early oil change on every fluid on everything
I own . Over kill? Maybe may be not.

Like I said, I can't imagine keeping sparklies in an unfiltered engine is good. An argument can be made that the deck will rot out or you'll hit a rock and bend the shaft before the engine gives out, but that doesn't fly with me. It take almost no time and very little money (in oil) to give an engine a good start. Why not?
 
Head to the local marina. Boats have to use E0. You’ll pay a little more.

I don’t bother- but put stabil in every gas can, including long term storage. Never had an issue since I started doing this, wish I knew before, thanks bitog!
 
Since it is dual fuel run it on propane. Plug a 1500w heater into it and let it go a few hours. All broke in.

It isn't a high performance engine with tight tolerances. All that needs done is a good load to seat the rings.
 
I put regular 87 octane gas in my generator . I pull it out of the garage and crank it about every three weeks to a month and let it run for about 10 minutes . Shut the fuel valve and let it run till it kills . After it cools , roll it back in . Been doing this for over four years with that unit . Once a year I give it a dose of Seafoam . To break it in , I ran it with a large shop fan plugged in for about 30 minutes . I like to keep things simple and it seems to work fine .
 
I follow the manual. Put the supplied oil or required oil in the crankcase. Put fresh gas in the tank. Turn the choke to on and the switch to on and pull start it. Turn choke off after engine starts. My generator said change the oil after running for 5 hours. KISS. Ed
 
Break in the generator like you would a lawn mower. [Start it up then cut the lawn]
Every failure I've had on these small OPE engines has been something totally unrelated to break-in. Like busted exhaust valves where the valve head get smashed between the piston and cylinder head.
 
It's amazing how when it seems like you've just got a splash of fuel left in the tank and you want to run your generator out of fuel, the sucker will run for an hour with a load on it.
 
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