Driven motor oil

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I am seeking opinions on Driven brand motor oil for use in our hotrod LSx motors. I had never even heard of this oil until I sent a set of 243 heads to Texas speed for their stage 3 magic. And after talking with my machinist friend there he highly recommended that I use Driven BR 40 for my break in oil. He stated that they so highly believe in the Driven oils that if you buy a complete motor from them that you must prove that you were using Driven to make a warranty claim. Seeking opinions please.
 
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Everything I've read regarding Driven is that it's a top tier oil for high performance engines, especially LS engines. I believe RDY4WAR on here uses Driven, so you might keep an eye out for his thoughts.
 
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I've used Driven oils for years. I use their BR30 and BR40 break-in oils. My Tahoe has also been getting LS30 at 10k mile intervals for the past 50k miles. I'm switching it to High Performance Lubricants BAS 5w-30 next time though to kinda test a theory. Driven oils make use of mPAO and POE quite a bit. LS30 is ~8% POE and ~10% mPAO, the ZDDP is a highly reactive secondary alkyl type, and the moly content is 600+ ppm and is a blend of 2 different moly additives. What's the specs for the LSx? Hydraulic or solid roller? What rpm? All motor or will it see boost/nitrous?
 
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While I like TSP....Especially their stroker kits, They only require a certain brand oil to have an OUT if something goes wrong. I break-in every LSx engine I build with Mobil Delvac 1300 & a bottle of GM EOS, Then "vanilla" Mobil 1 after that. I also see the benefit of extra protection in the form of ZDDP with high spring rates & aggressive cam profiles during break/run-in!
 
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
While I like TSP....Especially their stroker kits, They only require a certain brand oil to have an OUT if something goes wrong. I break-in every LSx engine I build with Mobil Delvac 1300 & a bottle of GM EOS, Then "vanilla" Mobil 1 after that. I also see the benefit of extra protection in the form of ZDDP with high spring rates & aggressive cam profiles during break/run-in!
Break-in isn't so much about what an oil contains as it is what it doesn't contain. The type of ZDDP in Delvac is not as reactive as what you'd find in a dedicated break-in oil. You also have lots of neutral and overbased detergents, dispersants, corrosion inhibitors, oxidation inhibitors, friction modifiers, and other additives that are useless and just in the way during that break-in period. This makes break-in take longer with more wear along the way. A dedicated break-in oil is designed to be highly reactive from the moment the engine is fired. Driven BR30 and BR40 is 2400-2800 ppm Zn and P with <500 ppm Ca, <80 ppm B, and 0 ppm Mo. Get everything out of the way to get ZDDP where it needs to be and activated as quick as possible. EDIT: I'd also like to add that I've wiped cam lobes trying to break the engine in on HDEO. Adding in a supplement helped with that, but I was still getting 3-5% leakdown on every new engine after break-in. I started using dedicated break-in oils and that leakdown went down to <2%, and I noticed much less metal shavings on the drain plug and in the oil after break-in.
 
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Originally Posted by P10crew
I am seeking opinions on Driven brand motor oil for use in our hotrod LSx motors. I had never even heard of this oil until I sent a set of 243 heads to Texas speed for their stage 3 magic. And after talking with my machinist friend there he highly recommended that I use Driven BR 40 for my break in oil. He stated that they so highly believe in the Driven oils that if you buy a complete motor from them that you must prove that you were using Driven to make a warranty claim. Seeking opinions please.
I have no opinion on that oil. But I do have an opinion on your shop, Texas Speed. They are breaking federal law unless they provide that oil for free, for the duration of the warranty, This is covered in the US Magnusen Moss act, which was originally spurred by anti-competitive practices in the computer industry until the act was passed about 1976. The act covers a broad range of "tie ins" and mandatory purchases of accessories and maintenance items across almost any industry, especially computers, consumer electronics, consumer items, and especially the auto industry. If any oil that meets the manufacturers specifications is used, you will be covered under USA law. There are similar laws for most countries. If there is a warranty claim, and the warranty provider disallows the claim due to non-manufacturer provided parts or items, then it is up to that provider to prove that the aftermarket item was at fault. This is key- it is not up to the consumer to prove no fault, rather the warranty provider to prove fault. Rarely does this problem happen at the manufacturer level, but you do hear about it from misinformed individuals who try to spread FUD and are not aware of the laws. Assuming your shop is in Texas, the Texas AG would not take kindly to this business practice. Certainly the Feds would not take kindly- in fact Hyundai was recently fined and warned about this behavior that was only found in an obscure place on their website.
 
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Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by clinebarger
While I like TSP....Especially their stroker kits, They only require a certain brand oil to have an OUT if something goes wrong. I break-in every LSx engine I build with Mobil Delvac 1300 & a bottle of GM EOS, Then "vanilla" Mobil 1 after that. I also see the benefit of extra protection in the form of ZDDP with high spring rates & aggressive cam profiles during break/run-in!
Break-in isn't so much about what an oil contains as it is what it doesn't contain. The type of ZDDP in Delvac is not as reactive as what you'd find in a dedicated break-in oil. You also have lots of neutral and overbased detergents, dispersants, corrosion inhibitors, oxidation inhibitors, friction modifiers, and other additives that are useless and just in the way during that break-in period. This makes break-in take longer with more wear along the way. A dedicated break-in oil is designed to be highly reactive from the moment the engine is fired. Driven BR30 and BR40 is 2400-2800 ppm Zn and P with <500 ppm Ca, <80 ppm B, and 0 ppm Mo. Get everything out of the way to get ZDDP where it needs to be and activated as quick as possible. EDIT: I'd also like to add that I've wiped cam lobes trying to break the engine in on HDEO. Adding in a supplement helped with that, but I was still getting 3-5% leakdown on every new engine after break-in. I started using dedicated break-in oils and that leakdown went down to <2%, and I noticed much less metal shavings on the drain plug and in the oil after break-in.
I use GM EOS as a supplement, No worries with wiping a lobe on a LSx engine.
 
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Further info on the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson%E2%80%93Moss_Warranty_Act Quote- under Requirements Section: " Warrantors cannot require that only branded parts be used with the product in order to retain the warranty.[7] This is commonly referred to as the "tie-in sales" provisions[8] and is frequently mentioned in the context of third-party computer parts, such as memory and hard drives. " I think this is a little outdated as plug compatibility in the computer industry is widely known and understood. I find it more often in the auto industry.
 
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Originally Posted by rubberchicken
I have no opinion on that oil. But I do have an opinion on your shop, Texas Speed. They are breaking federal law unless they provide that oil for free, for the duration of the warranty, This is covered in the US Magnusen Moss act, which was originally spurred by anti-competitive practices in the computer industry until the act was passed about 1976. The act covers a broad range of "tie ins" and mandatory purchases of accessories and maintenance items across almost any industry, especially computers, consumer electronics, consumer items, and especially the auto industry. If any oil that meets the manufacturers specifications is used, you will be covered under USA law. There are similar laws for most countries. If there is a warranty claim, and the warranty provider disallows the claim due to non-manufacturer provided parts or items, then it is up to that provider to prove that the aftermarket item was at fault. This is key- it is not up to the consumer to prove no fault, rather the warranty provider to prove fault. Rarely does this problem happen at the manufacturer level, but you do hear about it from misinformed individuals who try to spread FUD and are not aware of the laws. Assuming your shop is in Texas, the Texas AG would not take kindly to this business practice. Certainly the Feds would not take kindly- in fact Hyundai was recently fined and warned about this behavior that was only found in an obscure place on their website.
TSP is a small business that caters to a niche market, This isn't GM or Ford we're talking about here. If one doesn't like their business practices.....Don't buy from them!
 
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Originally Posted by clinebarger
Originally Posted by rubberchicken
I have no opinion on that oil. But I do have an opinion on your shop, Texas Speed. They are breaking federal law unless they provide that oil for free, for the duration of the warranty, This is covered in the US Magnusen Moss act, which was originally spurred by anti-competitive practices in the computer industry until the act was passed about 1976. The act covers a broad range of "tie ins" and mandatory purchases of accessories and maintenance items across almost any industry, especially computers, consumer electronics, consumer items, and especially the auto industry. If any oil that meets the manufacturers specifications is used, you will be covered under USA law. There are similar laws for most countries. If there is a warranty claim, and the warranty provider disallows the claim due to non-manufacturer provided parts or items, then it is up to that provider to prove that the aftermarket item was at fault. This is key- it is not up to the consumer to prove no fault, rather the warranty provider to prove fault. Rarely does this problem happen at the manufacturer level, but you do hear about it from misinformed individuals who try to spread FUD and are not aware of the laws. Assuming your shop is in Texas, the Texas AG would not take kindly to this business practice. Certainly the Feds would not take kindly- in fact Hyundai was recently fined and warned about this behavior that was only found in an obscure place on their website.
TSP is a small business that caters to a niche market, This isn't GM or Ford we're talking about here. If one doesn't like their business practices.....Don't buy from them!
I get what your saying, but allowing this behavior just encourages it to spread. Pretty soon your getting warranty claims disallowed because you did not use Chevy wiper blades on your Chevy truck. I see service writers try to pull this stuff , and it gets tiring. Also to take your argument further- you are advocating that only big business has to follow the law, and small business or individuals are exempt ?
 
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According to the TSP website, there's no requirement for using a specific oil to maintain the warranty.
 
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I have had several engines rebuilt over the past couple of years. One on the east cost, one in Arizona and one in Michigan. All three recommended Joe Gibbs Driven motor oil for use in the engines. They also "like" Brad Penn. I have gone with their recommendations and I have had no problems. Maybe I would have had no problems with another motor oil, but they rebuilt the engines and they know more than I do.
 
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Wow. Thanks for the replies fellas. Rubber chicken TSP doesn't play any games that I've ever seen and I may have misspoke because the oil may come with the motor. Sorry for that.... my bad! CLine, RDY, 3 Thanks! This is going in a 6.0 Balanced rotating assembly new from TSP/ PRC .600 .600 228R cam Heads as stated above. Block machine work was done at a trusted local shop. I plan to spin it 6-6500 on the dyno after a good breakin/ runin on 93. After that it's just a cruzier and will seldom see 5500....... well maybe. My ultimate question is going to be this. After a 4-500 mile breakin can I switch back to my normal 10-30 full synthetic m1 or would you stick with the Driven line of oils since I am going to run it in on this Driven BR? Thank you!
 
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Originally Posted by P10crew
Wow. Thanks for the replies fellas. Rubber chicken TSP doesn't play any games that I've ever seen and I may have misspoke because the oil may come with the motor. Sorry for that.... my bad! CLine, RDY, 3 Thanks! This is going in a 6.0 Balanced rotating assembly new from TSP/ PRC .600 .600 228R cam Heads as stated above. Block machine work was done at a trusted local shop. I plan to spin it 6-6500 on the dyno after a good breakin/ runin on 93. After that it's just a cruzier and will seldom see 5500....... well maybe. My ultimate question is going to be this. After a 4-500 mile breakin can I switch back to my normal 10-30 full synthetic m1 or would you stick with the Driven line of oils since I am going to run it in on this Driven BR? Thank you!
How many miles do you intend to put on this engine each year? If less than 3k miles a year, I'd use Driven GP-1 10w-30 and change it once a year. For break-in, I don't baby my engines at all. If they are fired, they are under load. The first time it's started up, it idles just long enough for me to ensure I have sufficient oil pressure and no major leaks. Then it goes to 2000 rpm for 5 minutes to get some heat in it and load the rings. After that, it usually goes on the dyno or to the track, and I beat the snot out of it for 8-10 pulls. An alternative is to load it on a quiet country road in 2nd gear, run it hard to 4k rpm, coast down to 2k rpm, and floor it back to 4k rpm. Repeat several times. Then I change the filter, not the oil, top off the oil, and go for 150-250 miles or 25-30 1/4-mile passes. Then I change the break-in oil for whatever oil of choice and go normal intervals from there.
 
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I've heard nothing but good things about Driven. They are very forthcoming too when it comes to technical questions. They also have a new line of Direct Injection oils that have a low SA level of .7. If I were in need of a specialty, boutique oil, Driven would likely be my choice.
 
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RDY, 3-4000 per year hopefully. It will sit in heated shop from about 15 November- 15 April as I will refuse to drive my good junk on salt. CLine what exactly is vanilla m1?
 
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Originally Posted by P10crew
RDY, 3-4000 per year hopefully. It will sit in heated shop from about 15 November- 15 April as I will refuse to drive my good junk on salt. CLine what exactly is vanilla m1?
Don't worry about Mobil 1, stick to the good stuff Driven 👍...Ž
 
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Originally Posted by P10crew
RDY, 3-4000 per year hopefully. It will sit in heated shop from about 15 November- 15 April as I will refuse to drive my good junk on salt. CLine what exactly is vanilla m1?
Driven GP-1 10w-30 or 15w-40, changed once a year, would be an excellent choice for you. Vanilla M1 refers to regular Mobil 1, not the high mileage, extended performance, annual protection, or any of those. It's the ordinary plain jane version much like vanilla ice cream.
 
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