Does TBN matter for low miles longer time change intervals?

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Which oils are better for let's say 2 or 2.5 years oil change intervals? Assume 2-3K miles a year, no short trips and good fuel. Please let's forget about changing the oil once a year ... I am basically interested in knowing what makes one oil better than other for extended time. Are the extended mileage oils also better for extended time? what can make one oil more suitable than other for example does TBN matter for extended time intervals? Thanks!
 
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Originally Posted by zeng
It's the clinging that matters. My vote goes to Magnatec and esters.
Interesting you say that ... Was having lunch with couple of co-workers when this subject came up. I said I wouldn't waste my $ on expensive extended mileage or high TBN oils for a 2 years 5K miles oil change ... But I wasn't sure and that's why i posted this question. My other friend said Magnatec can stick and dry up or leave stain if you don't drive the car much so he recommended against oils that stick (ester, magnatec, etc.) for this kind of application! lol idk, maybe he knows something!
 
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2-3 years oci or storage at 2-3k miles per year is almost 'wholly' about corossion wear, despite no short trips. Hence only high polarity or clinging matters, which prevents 'dry up/staining' as per your friend alluded to .
 
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If you're not changing the oil but once every two years I'd think you could afford to send a sample in at the half way mark and have the TBN checked because no matter how much you try and prevent it, moisture will find a way into the engine. That said, I'd guess to a formulator TBN retention is a "thing" for extended drain lubes. Can't very well advertise the lube is serviceable at 15 or 20k miles if the TBN drops out after 10k on the test rigs in the lab. And me personally, I'd like to have "clingy molecules" oil film if I'm only turning the engine over 3, 4 or 5x a year, to avoid dry starts if at all possible.
 
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Pull the fuel pump fuse or relay and crank the engine for 10 seconds then put the fuse relay back in. No worries about yearly changing unless you plan to road race for an hour. And don't waste your money with a UOA .....it is not 1970 oil.
 
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One would assume an extended mileage oil would have a higher TBN. But depletion of the additive package occurs from combustion byproducts. Which is mileage based. However this assumes a properly working engine. If you have a coolant leak into the engine oil then better to get the oil out sooner than latter.
 
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I wonder if a Marine oil might work well in this situation. Marine oils can contain extra rust inhibitors since those engines often sit in humid environments unused for periods of time.
 
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High TBN is there to neutralize acids and combustion bi-products. Low sulfur (something along 0,3%) means no aromatic compounds there to turn into waxy stuff/ sludge. Quality fuel would not introduce this from the outside. So any high mileage oil, specd at MB 229.5, BMW LL01 would do. Those were especially formulated for longer drains and claims of ~30k km normal, 2 years/20k km severe, 1 year service OCI back here in Europe.
 
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You're basically asking, what is the shelf life of opened oil. I don't know that it's possible to calculate that exactly because it's situation-dependent. Oil need not be ran in order to degrade. Simply being exposed to oxygen and moisture can cause oil degradation. Unless you have absolute control of the factors that create acids in the oil, your oils TBN (or alkalinity) will drop over time. How much and how fast is anyone's guess (too many variables) but if I were essentially storing a vehicle I'd want a lube in there with a high starting TBN. Knowing the TAN and TBN at the halfway mark would tell you if the oil is serviceable. Now whether or not YOU see the value in knowing the TAN/TBN is entirely up to you..but if I had an expensive hunk of metal sitting in my garage not being ran regularly, I'd consider the cost of such an analysis as an insurance policy against corrosion... and that is my 2 pennies....
 
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NO2

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A higher TBN oil , such as M1EP, is available at very little additional cost, something like $3 per 5Q jug. I'd just use one of those and run it 2-3 years, or a Euro-spec oil if you have have a European car.
 
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Any oil.... that is the answer. It really doesn't matter. I have started up engines that have sat for 20 years - on whatever oil has been sitting in the sump for the last 20 years. I honestly don't think ANY amount of "speculation" on here will make any difference.
 
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Originally Posted by KevinP
My vote goes with the "It doesn't really matter". Sell your car and take an Uber. LOL....
Makes sense, if it's not a classic or sought-after model.. it's a depreciating asset....
 
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Originally Posted by KevinP
My vote goes with the "It doesn't really matter". Sell your car and take an Uber. LOL....
LOL very well put and the correct answer.
 
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Originally Posted by KevinP
My vote goes with the "It doesn't really matter". Sell your car and take an Uber. LOL....
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by KevinP
My vote goes with the "It doesn't really matter". Sell your car and take an Uber. LOL....
Makes sense, if it's not a classic or sought-after model.. it's a depreciating asset....
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by KevinP
My vote goes with the "It doesn't really matter". Sell your car and take an Uber. LOL....
LOL very well put and the correct answer.
Thanks for the tip guys! wink2 Wonder if Uber will deliver bark, topsoil, rocks or make occasional dumpster or kayak trips ... I will call them and find out! grin2
 
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