I'm just curious. I kind of what to try it in my truck, for no other reason to see how it does.
Has anyone done this regularly?
Has anyone done this regularly?
Does anyone run 20wt in a car spec'd for 30wt?
- Thread starter D189379
- Start date
- Status
Years ago I ran MC 5w20 in a Aspire. It's spec'd for 5w30 or higher. MC is fairly thick though. Got a little bit better mileage and ran better. Havoline 5w20 didn't work in older Festiva but the older 1.3's have a different cam setup. The Aspire I used the 5w20 in was the one I found in the junkyard but the engine looked fine and at least ran another 25k.
"fsskier" has had very good results using M1 0-20 in engines calling for 30 wt. oils. Here is a link. Scroll down on page two.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2098114/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2098114/
Dr. Haas is doing it in cars spec'd for oils even "thicker" the 30 grade, with good results.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Dr. Haas is doing it in cars spec'd for oils even "thicker" the 30 grade, with good results.
I remember reading about him. I'm thinking of using it in my daily driver over the winter, so the oil would be punished a bit more than his use. (He had a gently driven Ferrari or something, right?)
Dr. Haas is doing it in cars spec'd for oils even "thicker" the 30 grade, with good results.
I remember reading about him. I'm thinking of using it in my daily driver over the winter, so the oil would be punished a bit more than his use. (He had a gently driven Ferrari or something, right?)
That's him, I'd do a search and read up on him and his testing. He certainly put his money where his mouth is, and had written some good reports. Certainly worth a read.
D189379 This is going out on a ledge and is never recommended to drop a viscosity grade excepy in special circumstances. 1) Do you do mainly short trips? You may be OK if the oil temp never goes above 80c. OTW suitability it depends on how healthy the engine is - specifically how close to nominal its been manufactured and assembled. Ex: if you have a rod big-end bearing or piston-wall way over clearanced you may be in trouble (of $$$ damage) if you get the oil too hot or load the engine too much. Proceed with caution. I would try the toyota or honda Service part 0w-20 - at least that will give you a ton of moly that might keep you out of immediate trouble. Plus it should be top of the heap for a 20 grade (other than RL).
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Dr. Haas is doing it in cars spec'd for oils even "thicker" the 30 grade, with good results.
Maybe an interesting read (at best), but meaningless in this application (about which we know nothing other than the OP's geo area. What is the OP's engine and loading of the truck? AFA we know he could be talking about Cummins Diesel!
Dr. Haas is doing it in cars spec'd for oils even "thicker" the 30 grade, with good results.
Maybe an interesting read (at best), but meaningless in this application (about which we know nothing other than the OP's geo area. What is the OP's engine and loading of the truck? AFA we know he could be talking about Cummins Diesel!
Last edited:
I dont have any long term experience but i have run PP and QSUD 5w20 in my 4.3 blazer starting at 175k miles. Im not sure i noticed a great deal of difference but it seams to run smoother on it. Oil pressure when hot dropped about 3 to 4 psi. This took it down to 18psi hot idle in gear. Well within manufactures spec. Consumption actually reduced a little. As others have pointed out before, there are some parts of the engine that rely on the film strength of the oil. So i think oil pressure is important, it is not the entire story. I tried a run in my older 1500 truck with the 4.3 and it drank that stuff like crazy. It has bad valve stem seals so it was probably leaking through there.
Last edited:
I have been wanting to try this,but just have not had the gut`s to pull the trigger. Toyota did back spec to 06,and of course mine is an 05.
I personally dont believe their is any difference between the 05,and 06 3.3L motor. Knowing Toyota, their probably just covering their big [censored]!!
Last edited:
Here is a very current UOA of a 20 wt used in a car spec'd only for a 30 wt:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2138126/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2138126/
remember that its not like you going to dump it in and have it fall apart immediately. If there was an increase in wear, it would probably be a very small percentage that you would only notice toward the end of the engines life. Also oil is a balance. If you gain something, you will most likely give up something else. The key is finding an oil that suits your needs the best. M1HM might be a better oil then there M5000 but in some applications the 5000 would do just as well because your not pushing it to its limits where you would gain the advantage of the M1HM. Maybe a bad example but you get the point. We have see some great UOA's on regular dino oil. In that app there is no need for anything else.
Again, Toyota didnt back spec. The TSB (not intended for YOUR consumption) stated, in a big red warning box at the top, to use the grade stated on the oil fill cap and the owner's manual. This TSB Title was about ILSAC GF-4 being the latest spec for "Toyota Genuine Motor Oil'. If they "back speced, then my 08 Yaris would have been speced for 20wt and it was not. Nor was the '09. Any other interpretation of this TSB is incorrect and puts a consumer at risk of voiding their engine warranty.
I tried on Toyota Yaris, definitely not working and the noise made by engine after 5k is definitely tell something is not right.
I've been doing it with a back-spec Ford 3.0L engine with 194,000 miles and it did reduce oil use a bit. I've been also mixing 5W20 and 5W30 to reduce stray qts from my stash. No problems doing either of the above to report.
If I do try it,I dont know if it should be Synthetic 5w20 or Conventional,or Motorcraft blend. What say you`s??
Last edited:
Sorry I guess I should give some more info. It's for an 08 Nissan Frontier 4.0L. I live in Calgary, Alberta. My commute is about 35kms (20 miles), mixed driving. I don't tow, rarely load the bed up, or race. It's bean freaking cold here lately and got me thinking about thinner oils.
I know Nissan doesn't use 20wts, but watching everyone else changing over and even back specing older models to 20 wt has got me curious.
I currently run whatever 0,5,10W30 synthetic I find on sale at 10,000km intervals and the truck doesnt consume a drop. Has about 65,000 kms on it so far. I thought about running a 20wt synthetic over the winter for 10K
Maybe I'm just bored? Lol.
I know Nissan doesn't use 20wts, but watching everyone else changing over and even back specing older models to 20 wt has got me curious.
I currently run whatever 0,5,10W30 synthetic I find on sale at 10,000km intervals and the truck doesnt consume a drop. Has about 65,000 kms on it so far. I thought about running a 20wt synthetic over the winter for 10K
Maybe I'm just bored? Lol.
Last edited:
I`m just trying to get a little better millage. It`s horrible right now.
I have the same truck same engine. I would NOT use a 20w oil in it.
Quote:
I tried on Toyota Yaris, definitely not working and the noise made by engine after 5k is definitely tell something is not right.
I have the same engine and have used 20 weight for well over 150K miles. So, my experience has been different.
I tried on Toyota Yaris, definitely not working and the noise made by engine after 5k is definitely tell something is not right.
I have the same engine and have used 20 weight for well over 150K miles. So, my experience has been different.
- Status
Similar threads
