Cutting a small angle across wide 2x material

JHZR2

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This is probably a dumb question,,, I’d like to cut a 15-20 degree angle across a 2x12 piece of lumber. These could be longer pieces, up to 12ft long.

None of my circular saws can cut that small an angle or deep enough. I’m sure I could stand shorter pieces up on a table saw with a jig, but doing it right on longer pieces would be tough.

A long blade on a sawzall comes to mind. Chain saw is too rough. Cutting by hand is also in the cards but I’ll want 4-8 of these.

Cutting the best I can with a circular saw and then grinding it down with a wheel in a grinder also comes to mind, but is sloppy.

Thanks!
 
Compound miter saw?
Jig saw??
Band saw?

Can you post a picture? Maybe I’m not understanding
Traveling so don’t have much with me to show. I just want to cut a ramp edge across the 12” side of a 2x12. So it cuts into the 1.5” thickness but at an angle that is too deep for the blade. It’s just that the angle of the ramp should be very acute.

I don’t have a band saw. I have the rest.
 
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(1) If your compound miter saw won't do the job,

(2) use a circular saw. Clamp a metal guide (at the correct angle of course) across the 2X and run the circular saw with one edge against the guide. You can cut any angle you want. You have to cut in only one direction because otherwise the motor will interfere with your clamps.

(3) The third option is to cut the 2X just outside the line with a jig saw or hand saw and then sand it "down to the line". I'd use a (fixed) vertical sanding wheel. That's how I make many critical cuts. You can work to the width of the pencil mark. Not easy to do with long planks however.

I think (1) and (2) would be your best options.
 
Compound miter saw?
Jig saw??
Band saw?

Can you post a picture? Maybe I’m not understanding
Think he is referring to angle cut on the edge like a bevel. Funny, most circulars have infinately adjustable angle shoes. Coupled with a fence would give a nice straight, even cut. Maybe borrow a circular that'll do this.
 
(1) If your compound miter saw won't do the job,

(2) use a circular saw. Clamp a metal guide (at the correct angle of course) across the 2X and run the circular saw with one edge against the guide. You can cut any angle you want. You have to cut in only one direction because otherwise the motor will interfere with your clamps.

(3) The third option is to cut the 2X just outside the line with a jig saw or hand saw and then sand it "down to the line". I'd use a (fixed) vertical sanding wheel. That's how I make many critical cuts. You can work to the width of the pencil mark. Not easy to do with long planks however.

I think (1) and (2) would be your best options.
1) I don’t know of any compound mitre saw that will cut 11.5” high material.

2) still not visualizing how to do it with one cut. Maybe with two?

3) I can get infinite angles with a hand saw, but it’s a lot of cutting on 2x12 material.




Just to be certain, since I don’t have a good photo, here’s a drawing on a receipt:

IMG_8492.webp

Think he is referring to angle cut on the edge like a bevel. Funny, most circulars have infinately adjustable angle shoes. Coupled with a fence would give a nice straight, even cut. Maybe borrow a circular that'll do this.
Please see the photo. Maybe some giant saw would have a blade large enough, but not my skil work drive or other normal saws.
FWIW I cut my 2x12 wooden ramps at a 45 degree angle. This saved wood when building them and they have worked for many years.
I have done that too. I’d like a smaller angle because I may stack more than one and I want to minimize the step up.
 
What is the purpose of the cut wood?
a 15Degree angle cut would be fragile and almost 6" long.

Edit: posting before coffee = assumed it was for car ramps 🤣
 
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Do you have a big chisel? You could line up all the pieces and put some cuts into the material to remove with a circular saw, setting the depth from deep to shallow along snap lines to get your angle perfect, then finish with a timber framers chisel. Shouldn't take to long, just try to avoid putting knots where the angle is.
Actually you might not want to even use the chisel, just break off the wood between the cuts with a hammer and leave it rough for traction.
 
This is a bevel cut across the width - like a 12” wide wedge. I don’t think a saw of any kind will work for that on a 2x12”.

I would scribe the angle you want on the sides. Mark it well.

Method 1. Grab a portable power plane and set it for about 1/8” depth of cut, and start cutting your bevel by going across the face of the bevel. A bit at a time. As you approach your scribe lines, smaller cuts, perhaps 1/16” going down the face of your bevel to get it spot on.

You could rough the cut with a sawzall, with a stiff blade, going slow but cut 1/2” shy of your scribe lines and then clean it up with the plane.

Method 2. If you don’t have a power plane - go old school. Set your circular saw at 90 degrees and set it to cut to the depth of your scribe lines every 1/4”. Cut across the face of your bevel. Reset the depth, cut the next slot. Then repeat until you’re at the top of the bevel (full board thickness).

When you’re done - from the side, it will look like a comb, lots of parallel slots. Each one going down from face of your board to the face of your intended plane. Now, get a large chisel, and chisel those pieces off using the depth of the slots as your guide and then chisel down (or belt sander) to your intended plane surface.

Here’s what I mean:

IMG_5005.webp
 
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All right, I understand.

I would clamp 4 or more together. Set them on edge, scribe a clear line, and cut as deep as I could with a skill saw. Flip over and match on the other side. Its now a straight cut on the side so you might get close to 3 inches deep on each side - so 6 inches left to cut.

Scribe a line on the top and bottom face (which is now on the sides) so you can fallow that with a sawzall or even a hand saw. Since both sides are started you presumably now have a good path to follow if you take your time.

When done clean up with a course sander, etc.
 
All right, I understand.

I would clamp 4 or more together. Set them on edge, scribe a clear line, and cut as deep as I could with a skill saw. Flip over and match on the other side. Its now a straight cut on the side so you might get close to 3 inches deep on each side - so 6 inches left to cut.

Scribe a line on the top and bottom face (which is now on the sides) so you can fallow that with a sawzall or even a hand saw. Since both sides are started you presumably now have a good path to follow if you take your time.

When done clean up with a course sander, etc.
I like the clamping idea, then see the $150 tool I linked to.
 
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