Cooling leaks at hose to housing connections

Messages
637
Location
Florida
Thread starter
I have 2 places on my 98 Expedition 5.4 where the cooling hoses connect to the metal housings and have very slow leaks, 1 drop over the course of minutes. I am confident the hose clamps are tight. I feel like there may be some pitting or minor corrosion on the metal parts contributing to this. Any ideas what I can put on the metal housing connection points that could help create a more positive seal where the hose wraps over the metal?
 
Messages
2,700
Location
USA
Even with some pitting, you should be able to get a seal if there's no loose material. Use constant tension clamps.
 
Messages
1,627
Location
Cincinnati, USA
Are these the factory hoses? 22 years old... For there to be any significant corrosion (more likely dried coolant scuzz if not both) the coolant and/or air had to get to the mating surface of the metal. Odds are high that your hose(s) are cracking from the inside out and may even get worse if you pull them off to clean and reattach the same hoses. Fortunately it is a slow leak so if you don't mess with it, it will probably be fine till you get a chance to order new hoses, but do keep an eye on coolant level.
 
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Messages
1,425
Location
Perris, CA
The metal surfaces where the hoses connect probably have mineral deposits on them, causing the surface to be uneven. Take the hose off, go over the surface with some sandpaper, and you might as well get a new hose if it's the original from 1998.
 
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Messages
242
Location
Kern Co. California
Any chance the barbs where the hoses connect are flattened at all? Like others have said, new clamps maybe, old ones can get misshapen easily. Clean the area where they attach, and snug them up. Should be fairly easy, other than loosing a little coolant.
 
Messages
4,165
Location
WA
Permatex does make a metal filler but I don't know that that's what you need. I think taking a wire brush to the housing, new hose and maybe new clamp(s) if it doesn't look like the old clamps are working, should fix your problem. Permatex also makes a water pump and thermostat rtv (used in lieu of a gasket or as a gasket dressing) but I've never used it out of fear that it would make getting a stat or hose off a PITA. In reality there's no reason why a hose shouldn't form a water tight seal if everything's clean and tight. Are you 100% certain it's at the hose point (of connection) and not the stat leaking and the leak is "traveling"? Did you recently service the thermostat??
 
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Messages
4,825
Location
Columbus,Nebraska
Originally Posted by mk378
Even with some pitting, you should be able to get a seal if there's no loose material. Use constant tension clamps.
Right you are 378. OEMs use the Mubea type constant tension clamp for a reason. They are almost bullet proof. Never have had a problem with one.
 
Messages
1,143
Location
USA
Spring type OE clamps won't leak where screw type will. The spring expands and contracts keeping constant tension, and the screw type doesn't. l went to a junkyard and got some OE Toyota clamps once for the same reason you are having.
 
Messages
8,871
Location
Marshfield , MA
The best thing for a pitted hose nipple is good ol' Permatex Aviation Forma_Gasket. goop it on good. The hose will go back and not leak. Should you ever want to remove the hose, it will slide right off. It is non-hardening.. It is what there was pre- RTV grin2
 
Messages
2,961
Location
The Northeast
I don't mess with those chintzy screw on clamps. When I replaced a heater hose a while back, I went to the dealer and bought new constant tension clamps. They were pricey at almost $15 but I wanted to put 'em on once and be done with it.
 
Messages
4,617
Location
Fort Worth, Texas
Fords are kinda known for this, Clean the neck & inside the hose good, Apply some Hylomar M, Blue, Or Permatex Aviation F.A.G on the neck & use a factory constant tension clamp. You might have to use some emery cloth followed by some Alcohol or Brake Clean on the neck to clean it up.
 
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