Construction site dust - effect on OCI and air filter interval

[350Rocket]

I've been overthinking this way too much lately (because that's what I do), as I've been trying to make time for my oil change but house repair projects have been getting in the way.

I forgot to do a sticker last time, so I'm guessing but I think it's around 6k miles now. Still at 19.6% oil life on the olm. Oil looks good still and is only down half a qt but what the olm can't take into account is how much dust is frequently coating my entire truck.
Recently I changed the transmission fluid and had to remove the airbox to do it...I had to pour water all over it to keep dust from getting on the inside.
Any thoughts on this topic? I usually change somewhere between 20-30% olm or 4-5k miles. Shorter in winter time with the cold temps. It gets a lot of idle time in winter and summer (heat and ac when doing paperwork in the truck). Currently 250k miles and 11,000 hours.
I do plan on getting a uoa kit eventually, to check for silicon but not sure where I'm going to get it and I won't have one in time for this next oil change. I will likely be doing it this weekend for sure.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Assuming your air filter is seated properly there should be no elevated silicon. Air filters just load up with dirt and then eventually clog.

 

[350Rocket]

Assuming your air filter is seated properly there should be no elevated silicon. Air filters just load up with dirt and then eventually clog.

I was not sure how much could potentially get by. I just remember one of the things they always listed under "severe service" category for oil change intervals being "operating in dusty conditions".

 

[Kira]

"Any thoughts on this topic?"
I bought 3 of the WIX UOA kits from RockAuto. In my use, there was no indicated silicone / sand problems.
I make certain the air handling parts are assembled correctly and the lid of the filter housing is on squarely.
Air filter elements last a long time. Both my car and truck had >50K on 'em when I got the vehicles and again, no high silicone numbers.
That's not to say they don't clog.
I have adopted 30K as my air filter element change interval.

How quickly they clog in your circumstance is your call.
The dust which really clogs is the stuff that remains in the filter even if you wash one (not recommended by anybody).

I would GUESS that your 4-5K OCI is OK until you get more data (UOA kit). This is just an educated guess by an uneducated man.

Gas must not be that expensive if you sit with a running engine doing paperwork?
I'm not being snotty. If gas was expensive, you'd be aware of its cost. It would hurt.
Perhaps someone else is paying for it?

 

[350Rocket]

"Any thoughts on this topic?"
I bought 3 of the WIX UOA kits from RockAuto. In my use, there was no indicated silicone / sand problems.
I make certain the air handling parts are assembled correctly and the lid of the filter housing is on squarely.
Air filter elements last a long time. Both my car and truck had >50K on 'em when I got the vehicles and again, no high silicone numbers.
That's not to say they don't clog.
I have adopted 30K as my air filter element change interval.

How quickly they clog in your circumstance is your call.

I would GUESS that your 4-5K OCI is OK until you get more data (UOA kit).

Gas must not be that expensive if you sit with a running engine doing paperwork?
I'm not being snotty. If gas was expensive, you'd be aware of its cost. It would hurt.
Perhaps someone else is paying for it?

I pay for enough gas to cover a commute (even though I usually am heading to the job wherever it be from my own house) but the company pays gas. I only idle when it's over 80 and humid. Gas is not cheap but I'll soak the paperwork in sweat otherwise. If I sit with the windows down the inside of the truck sometimes gets filled with the same dust you see on the outside.
In the winter I run the heat if it's below freezing. It's hard to write with frozen hands in the winter time. Drying out gloves and defrosting also.

 

[350Rocket]

"Any thoughts on this topic?"
I bought 3 of the WIX UOA kits from RockAuto. In my use, there was no indicated silicone / sand problems.
I make certain the air handling parts are assembled correctly and the lid of the filter housing is on squarely.
Air filter elements last a long time. Both my car and truck had >50K on 'em when I got the vehicles and again, no high silicone numbers.
That's not to say they don't clog.
I have adopted 30K as my air filter element change interval.

How quickly they clog in your circumstance is your call.
The dust which really clogs is the stuff that remains in the filter even if you wash one (not recommended by anybody).

I would GUESS that your 4-5K OCI is OK until you get more data (UOA kit). This is just an educated guess by an uneducated man.

Gas must not be that expensive if you sit with a running engine doing paperwork?
I'm not being snotty. If gas was expensive, you'd be aware of its cost. It would hurt.
Perhaps someone else is paying for it?

I like dealing with rock auto so I'll probably get a few of those kits. Thanks.
I am careful to make sure the airbox is secure. I had to replace it when I forgot bought the truck as someone stripped 2 of the 4 fasteners. Now it has that air filter flow indicator that the older models had. I've never seen it drop much.

 

[fantastic]

Do you have an air filter pressure gauge to alert you when it may be clogged? If not then just follow what the manual says when to change the air filter in dusty environments. As for the oil you'd have to get a UOA to determine silicon levels to establish an interval.

 

[Kira]

I am careful to make sure the airbox is secure. I had to replace it when I forgot bought the truck as someone stripped 2 of the 4 fasteners. Now it has that air filter flow indicator that the older models had. I've never seen it drop much.

I'm on my 3rd Volvo V70. The last two had one of the three airbox clips broken. They're >$11 each (ha-ha).
They break when Bozos don't seat the filter or align the rear "hinge lugs" correctly.
The box plastic bows a bit and all you need is a long, slender screwdriver to push the rear of the box out a bit so the lugs go into their slots.
Evidence of careless people who don't think about their work, alas, isn't a new thing.

Also, I believe those "clogged filter spring plunger" gizmos have been determined to be useless except at the extremes.
Again, sorry to be the bummer here but air filters have enormous capacity.

 

[fantastic]

I'm on my 3rd Volvo V70. The last two had one of the three airbox clips broken. They're >$11 each (ha-ha).
They break when Bozos don't seat the filter or the rear "hinge lugs" correctly.
The box plastic bows a bit and all you need is a long, slender screwdriver to push the rear of the box out a bit so the lugs go into their slots.
Evidence of careless people who don't think about their work, alas, isn't a new thing.

Also, I believe those "clogged filter spring plunger" gizmos have been determined to be useless except at the extremes.
Again, sorry to be the bummer here but air filters have enormous capacity.

I agree but some manufacturers might have a better way by incorporating, electronic, air filter flow sensors or pressure sensors. But the the spring loaded sensor, like on my truck, seems to only be triggered in an emergency disaster declaration .

 

[FZ1]

I've been overthinking this way too much lately (because that's what I do), as I've been trying to make time for my oil change but house repair projects have been getting in the way.

I forgot to do a sticker last time, so I'm guessing but I think it's around 6k miles now. Still at 19.6% oil life on the olm. Oil looks good still and is only down half a qt but what the olm can't take into account is how much dust is frequently coating my entire truck.
Recently I changed the transmission fluid and had to remove the airbox to do it...I had to pour water all over it to keep dust from getting on the inside.
Any thoughts on this topic? I usually change somewhere between 20-30% olm or 4-5k miles. Shorter in winter time with the cold temps. It gets a lot of idle time in winter and summer (heat and ac when doing paperwork in the truck). Currently 250k miles and 11,000 hours.
I do plan on getting a uoa kit eventually, to check for silicon but not sure where I'm going to get it and I won't have one in time for this next oil change. I will likely be doing it this weekend for sure.

I've been overthinking this way too much lately (because that's what I do), as I've been trying to make time for my oil change but house repair projects have been getting in the way.

I forgot to do a sticker last time, so I'm guessing but I think it's around 6k miles now. Still at 19.6% oil life on the olm. Oil looks good still and is only down half a qt but what the olm can't take into account is how much dust is frequently coating my entire truck.
Recently I changed the transmission fluid and had to remove the airbox to do it...I had to pour water all over it to keep dust from getting on the inside.
Any thoughts on this topic? I usually change somewhere between 20-30% olm or 4-5k miles. Shorter in winter time with the cold temps. It gets a lot of idle time in winter and summer (heat and ac when doing paperwork in the truck). Currently 250k miles and 11,000 hours.
I do plan on getting a uoa kit eventually, to check for silicon but not sure where I'm going to get it and I won't have one in time for this next oil change. I will likely be doing it this weekend for sure.

4-5k sounds good with an oem Af in a dusty environment.

 

[MSCH]

I've been overthinking this way too much lately (because that's what I do), as I've been trying to make time for my oil change but house repair projects have been getting in the way.

I forgot to do a sticker last time, so I'm guessing but I think it's around 6k miles now. Still at 19.6% oil life on the olm. Oil looks good still and is only down half a qt but what the olm can't take into account is how much dust is frequently coating my entire truck.
Recently I changed the transmission fluid and had to remove the airbox to do it...I had to pour water all over it to keep dust from getting on the inside.
Any thoughts on this topic? I usually change somewhere between 20-30% olm or 4-5k miles. Shorter in winter time with the cold temps. It gets a lot of idle time in winter and summer (heat and ac when doing paperwork in the truck). Currently 250k miles and 11,000 hours.
I do plan on getting a uoa kit eventually, to check for silicon but not sure where I'm going to get it and I won't have one in time for this next oil change. I will likely be doing it this weekend for sure.

if the situation is bothering you, change the oil as soon as practicable.

 

[PF52]

Certain jobsites are basically a sea of dust. Mass-grading, etc. When I was using my own truck, I used to change the air filter with each oil change if I was on a job like that. If you pull the filter out and the dirty side of it looks as dusty as your wheelwells, it's time to change it. Note also that when the mechanic comes each day to service the machines he replaces or at least blows air through the air filters on each one of them. What's an air filter cost for a Cat 627 scraper? They ain't cheap I am sure.

 

[JustinH]

I live near a gravel quarry, and heavy heavy construction during Texas drought conditions.

I buy two cabin filters and two engine air filters for each car, and throw them in at six month intervals regardless of condition. The cabin filters are usually trashed at six months.

 

[MSCH]

what do you guys think of this air filter? replace or leave in service?