Considering buying a Franz Filter

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Another thing to think about--if you have a good experience with this installation, you might consider some kind of bypass filter for the transmission. That might even be more important on a Caravan than the engine oil.

Just a thought.
 
Originally Posted By: AlaskaMike
Before you mount up the bypass filter, send off an oil sample to get a baseline analysis. I didn't think about doing that with my Dodge before I installed my GCF O-1, and I'm kind of kicking myself for not doing it. It's not a big deal, but it's the only way you'll be able to really quantify the before/after performance.

You're going to want to do periodic oil sampling if you go with longer drain intervals, so a baseline sample is just one more.


Do you have a Caravan? If so I am interested in what your used oil analysis showed.:)
 
I do have a Dodge Caravan, but I don't have any bypass filters on it. My Caravan is a third vehicle and isn't driven very much. I've never taken any oil samples from it.

That said, I still think it's worth it if you take a baseline sample before you install the bypass filter. Certainly your choice, of course.
 
Hi Everyone,

I am getting ready to finish installing the Frantz Filter. I am trying to figure out the right place to put the metal ring. I was sure I knew the right way to use it, but now I am not so sure. Do you put the metal ring in first inside of the canister, and then the toilet paper roll? Or do you put the roll in the canister first and then the metal ring?

One more question... are the Frantz filter a lot better than toilet paper? My plan is to use scotts tissue... but am wondering if the Franz media is significantly better?
 
Metal ring after you push the TP into the canister. I use Scotts 1000 TB or Costco "Kirkland" TP as my filter choices.
 
Originally Posted By: xtell
Metal ring after you push the TP into the canister. I use Scotts 1000 TB or Costco "Kirkland" TP as my filter choices.


Perfect! Thanks for your answer! I do have one more question... the width of toilet paper has been getting narrower. I doubt Scotts is doing it now, but if they come out with narrower paper, do I push it as far as it will go into the canister and follow it with the metal ring to hold it all the way in the bottom? I guess the question is: is the ring's purpose to make the tp stay flush with the bottom of the canister?

TIA,
Brad
 
Push the roll down as far as it will go. After reinstalling the canister and starting the engine, the oil pressure will push the roll down tight against the screen. Also, always inspect the top of the old roll for any visible contamination such as water or metal particles. Frantz use to call that an "instant engine analysis".
 
Originally Posted By: jacobs
Push the roll down as far as it will go. After reinstalling the canister and starting the engine, the oil pressure will push the roll down tight against the screen. Also, always inspect the top of the old roll for any visible contamination such as water or metal particles. Frantz use to call that an "instant engine analysis".


Gotcha. Thanks!
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: DeafBrad
How long to you leave the oil in the engine before draining it?


Some people say "indefinitely"

It really depends on whn you "catch" the filter flow before it stops up completely, and the TAN (total acid number) when you get an oil analysis (you usually have to ask for TBN/TAN).

I know a few folks who go every 10,000 - then change the roll and add 1 qt synthetic.
 
I finally got everything hooked up. It works well so far. I ran the outlet hose into the oil filler cap so I decided to take it off to see how much oil is flowing. I was surprised how much oil flows through the bypass filter. I figured it would slow after running through the filter.

There is not a lot of room to run a T fitting off of the oil pressure sensor port on the 3.8 engine. Everything had to be lined up just right, as the T fitting had to be turned just right to clear various things.

If anyone is considering this with the 3.8 engine, here is a couple suggestions. A longer length of male threaded pipe may move the T fitting far enough away to make things work better. Or maybe use a sandwich adapter instead. Also, the oil pressure electrical plug only has just enough wire to plug it in the stock location, so if you use a T fitting you may need to splice in a section of wire.

One more thing for people buying a used unit that doesn't have the fittings... maybe consider buying the Frantz fittings. I ended up spending the same amount for fittings as they charge for their fittings (or more). You will save yourself the headache of spending time in the store figuring out what you need.
 
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Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: DeafBrad
How long to you leave the oil in the engine before draining it?


Some people say "indefinitely"

It really depends on whn you "catch" the filter flow before it stops up completely, and the TAN (total acid number) when you get an oil analysis (you usually have to ask for TBN/TAN).

I know a few folks who go every 10,000 - then change the roll and add 1 qt synthetic.


Thanks for the information. My plan is to change out the filter every 5,000 miles and top up the oil. My plan is to do a drain between 20,000 and 25,000 miles. That means my oil is left in for 8 oil changes in length.
 
Originally Posted By: DeafBrad
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: DeafBrad
How long to you leave the oil in the engine before draining it?


Some people say "indefinitely"

It really depends on whn you "catch" the filter flow before it stops up completely, and the TAN (total acid number) when you get an oil analysis (you usually have to ask for TBN/TAN).

I know a few folks who go every 10,000 - then change the roll and add 1 qt synthetic.


Thanks for the information. My plan is to change out the filter every 5,000 miles and top up the oil. My plan is to do a drain between 20,000 and 25,000 miles. That means my oil is left in for 8 oil changes in length.


With a filter change every 5000 miles and your regular full flow filter change you might not need to ever change the oil. I've had my Cummins( 15 quart sump) on this schedule now for 40,000 miles, no oil change yet, just a toilet paper roll every 5000 miles and a full flow every 25000 and the lab says keep using. I also started my V10 gas (6 quart sump) on the same schedule with an oil analysis every 12 months. Keep us posted on your results.:)
 
A310,

Thanks for your comment. That would be cool about leaving it in indefinitely. Would it matter that I am using Chevron conventional oil, and not synthetic? What do you use for a full flow filter?
 
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Originally Posted By: DeafBrad
A310,

Thanks for your comment. That would be cool about leaving it in indefinitely. Would it matter that I am using Chevron conventional oil, and not synthetic? What do you use for a full flow filter?


Can't see why the conventional won't do the job, I would however check with an oil analysis from time to time to see how the oil is holding up. I'm running an amsoil AEO80 full flow which is rated for 25000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: xtell
A310,

Just a quick side track, are you running 5w-20 oil in your V10?


No, I ended up using 5W-30 as that's what I'm using in my wife's explore and have lots of stock. Runs well and good cold starts, so I'm keeping 5W-30 and no additives added. I now have 5000 miles on the engine and changed out the first roll at 4000 miles. Replaced the O2 sensor and got rid of the rich fuel trim setting on bank one, so should help out on the fuel dilution. Engine is running really well and am now code free.:) Oh and went from 9.6 mpg to 13.5 mpg, so happy V10.
 
Brad ~ You'll love watching ~ this filter do it's job ```

I've used them for many years ~ they use to be $24.00 installed ```
Frantz used to demonstrate them at Flea Markets, years ago ~ I think that was himself ~ I saw at the Rodium Drivein , Gardena, California ~ one weekend ~ when I was about 17 ``

I really like them ~ have collected them over the years ```

Richard
 
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Originally Posted By: valley_ranch
I just read about Shearing ~ new to me ~ I put Frantz Filter on both daughters cars recently ~ Shearing added concern to the process ```


Hi Valley Ranch, what shearing are you referring to? Do you have a link to what you read?
 
Brad ~ No link``` It was not a great description ~ but I have read better telling of what shearing is ```

I'm talking about Shearing of the additives that make~ say ~ A 5W-30 become a 5W all the time ```

Does that make sense ```

Have to go blow the snow ~ I'll be back~ in a bit ```

Richard
 
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