Can I use brake anti-squeal paste with anti-rattle clips and brake pad shims?

Owen Lucas

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Like an idiot I forgot to add the anti-rattle clips and brake pad shims. I got a new set of clips and installing them over this unfinished brake job, but is anti-squeal paste still needed at this point?

I can see using it on the brake pad back plates / shims where they contact the caliper housing and piston but not sure if it should go on the clips.

How do you use this stuff correctly anyway?

Brake Pad Anti Squeal Grease.jpeg
 
Reference the repair manual. You can usually put brake grease on the back of the pads where it makes contact with the shims as well was the ears where it makes contact with the clips. Silicone grease on slide pins.
 
Is that sticky blue goo?

How do you expect the pads to move freely if you slather it all over the abutment clips and pad ears?
It's Liqui Moly's anti squeal paste, feels like grease. It's not supposed to solidify so I guess the pads would still move?

20240_Bremsen_Anti_Quietsch_Paste_Pinseldose_200ml_6212.jpeg
3074_Bremsen_Anti_Quietsch_Paste__Pinseldose___3__1967.jpg
 
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That stuff is only if you have a squeal problem with existing shims, which you shouldn't, and which you only apply to the back of the pads, not in the groves where it slides. You should brake caliper lube instead, especially under the clips to prevent rust jacking.
 
It's Liqui Moly's anti squeal paste, feels like grease. It's not supposed to solidify so I guess the pads would still move?

View attachment 155669View attachment 155670
Never used that stuff, but it just seems like a substitute for brake grease. I wouldn't hesitate to use it anywhere where I would put brake grease. Usually this would be a light coat between the caliper and the clips, between the ears of the pad and the clips, between the pad and the shims, and between the shims and the caliper. Your repair manual may state different locations.
 
No repair manual here, I sure miss those Chilton's / Haynes books. I think they stopped printing them.
Lexus Master here. If it's a Toyota-Lexus, pretty much every single repair manual recommends brake grease between the pads and the shims and between the ears and the rattle clips. Nothing between the shims and calipers, nothing between the clips and calipers. Silicone grease and only silicone grease for the slide pins. The only ones I remember off the top of my head that are distinctly different are the 6-pot caliper pads that come with some F-Sports.
 
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Lexus Master here. If it's a Toyota-Lexus, pretty much every single repair manual recommends brake grease on between the pad and the shim and between the ears and the rattle clips. Nothing between the shims and caliper, nothing between the clips and caliper. Silicone grease and only silicone grease for the slide pins. The only ones I remember off the top of my head that are distinctly different are the 6-pot caliper pads that come with some F-Sports.
This is a 2005 Scion tC, so basically a Camry drivetrain / transmission and presumably the suspension. Pretty low-tech. I'm doing the front calipers and all 4 brake hoses as well.

I'm also using CRC Silaramic lube on the pins.
 
This is a 2005 Scion tC, so basically a Camry drivetrain / transmission and presumably the suspension. Pretty basic, I'm doing the front calipers and all 4 brake hoses as well.

I'm also using CRC Silaramic lube on the pins.
Silaramic is good stuff. It passes the JDM test for rubber compatibility. I use it religiously.
 
Like in your second picture, after I take the caliper bracket off and wire wheel and wire brush the part where the hardware clips go, I put a light coat of copper anti-seize to hopefully keep the rusting there to a minimum.

I’ve never put grease on the tabs of the ears. Silicone past (3M) on slide pins
 
I guess I don't understand why you would even start the brake job without the proper replacement hardware on hand, or at least re-use the old hardware in the meantime. You can't just let the pad ears ride against the caliper bracket like that.
 
I guess I don't understand why you would even start the brake job without the proper replacement hardware on hand, or at least re-use the old hardware in the meantime. You can't just let the pad ears ride against the caliper bracket like that.
I thought I could have reused them but they were in poor shape, then forgot to remove them from the old pads and went ahead with the reassembly, doh! Realized afterwards, this is why I am not a professional mechanic. As for most DIY'ers it can take us twice as long to do the job, and we might screw up along the way, but we usually get it right in the end.

I had to wait for the dealer to get the kit in. I was waiting on the brake lines anyway as there were only a few pairs left in the entire country but oddly, the shim / clip kits were delayed longer.
 
I clean the caliper and lube the caliper contact points instead of the pads. Looks better behind those fancy pants-wheels.
Remember the exposed grease will catch debris and doesn't lube anything.
 
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