Brake Fluid Exchange Order Of Operation

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Jul 11, 2021
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I’ve always done brake fluid flushes in the order of starting furthest away from the master to closest, so this is usually
Passenger rear
Drivers rear
Passenger front
Drivers front

That’s just the way I was taught so that’s just what I did.

Then I was watching a video of a mechanic I trust and he does the opposite, closest first.

So this got me thinking about it and closest first actually makes more sense to me.

What do you guys think about this? How do you go about it?
 
I usually do far to near, but I think it is splitting hairs. There are times when I've done just the rears and/or just the fronts at one time.

Plenty of cars go to the grave with factory fluid....not saying that is right, and it is certainly not something I'd ever do, but do whatever works for you unless a FSM says otherwise.
 
If the fluid is pretty rancid, I might even use a turkey baster to remove the crutty fluid in the master cylinder and refill with clean fluid to keep that dirty fluid from traveling through the whole system before it exits.
I agree that is ideal but it seems most of the cars I work on that are 5 years old or newer the design of the tank prevents getting a rubber tube in there never mind a turkey baster.
 
Varies by vehicle. Honda is LF, RF, RR, LR for most of their cars.
Right! ^^^ Or something like that.
I was about to say that older Honda's used a Criss/Cross pattern as some of my older models from the 80's-90's showed in the repair manual (LF/RR-RF/LR).

However I just start from the furthest to the closest without issues, as JWC86 and others have mentioned.
I always removed the old brake fluid from the reservoir and put in fresh fluid, then start my bleeding procedure.
Typically when I replace brakes(assuming I am doing all 4), I like to replace the rear first in the same bleeding order while working my way to the front.
 
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One mistake that I used to make was not siphoning off from the reservoir, and filling with fresh fluid, as step 1.

Then one day it hit me. What do I accomplish by bleeding the right rear, if I didn't do the above? All I did was to push dirty fluid out, then move on to the left rear. amazing lol and this was probably already 6 years into DIY or the 3rd time
 
If it's just a fluid change and there is no air in the system, I can't see how it would matter what order bleeding is done.

I've heard the furthest first was correct before ABS but that now with ABS it's nearest first but again if no air is present why would it matter particularly where four individual brake lines emerge from the ABS unit. It might have mattered when brake lines split into two part way to each wheel
 
My 2 cents.
First, remove dirty fluid from reservoir and add new.
Because I have to remove tires to get to bleeders, I also rotate the tires.
I buy two quarts of fluid and use most of it during the pressure bleed.
RR / LR / RF / LF
and then RR 'again' while removing the spare tire.

I know the fluid in the ABS actuator is NOT changed, but in the winter, I brake on some ice hoping to flush out the ABS.
I also change the BF every two years.

Most people don't change the fluid, so I figure I'm stacking the deck in my favor.
Many years ago, the BF in my reservoir was black .... I didn't know any better.
Now when it's changed, it's an amber color.
 
First thing I do is replace the fluid in the reservoir for the MC. Then I start with the RR, LR, RF, LF. I don't know that the order matters too much but new fluid in the reservoir before bleeding is key IMO.
 
My ‘01 LEXUS RX300’s ABS proportioning block had a bleeder valve in the top of the block under hood onthe passenger side. When I would bleed that system, I would also bleed the block.
So the bleeding order for me(nothing mentioned in any repair manual that I was aware of) is:
Right Rear
Left Rear
Right Front
ABS Block
Left Front
 
Go figure..Been gravity bleeding my 13' CRV RR,LR,RF,LF since I bought it new ( always turkey baste the old stuff out of the master 1st ). Gonna use Critic's formula from here on out. LF,RF,RR,LR....Friggin Honda gotta go against the grain :(..... I will say this, I enjoyed gravity bleeding when I was drinkin and smokin 25 years ago. By the time I was done, 1/2 a pack of smokes were gone and I was 1/2 in the bag :) LOL..... Now, it's like,,,OMG,,,is this done yet ???? Twittling my thumbs. But, it's worth it. What a great brake pedal afterwards !!!!!!
 
Used one of these, after years of mitivac vacuum bleeding, and it was so NICE! Good for ABS, or so I've read.


Screenshot 2025-09-18 084038.webp
 
Yeah, I've seen them before. Never did buy one. But now I will be. Between my back and my knees, just not worth it anymore. Now, by the time I'm done, I'm hurtin by gravity bleeding. Thanks :)
 
If possible, I look at the ABS modulator and notice how the lines are paired. Else, I go RR, RL, LF, RF. Some cars are on a diagonal split, others are split between front and back. Toyota hybrids are split front/rear, in the event of ECB/brake actuator failure, the front wheels will be hydraulically connected to the master cylinder.
 
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