Battery keeps getting corrosion on it!

^ It isn't, but you have a tub of acid solution and the vapors always include acid vapor, no way around it on a wet cell.

I've used many Johnson Control batteries, this is not typical for them. Back years ago people would combat this by driving with their headlights on if the duration of the trip was enough to overcharge the battery this much, but a 2018 shouldn't have that problem, so I suspect either the battery is near dead and the alternator is putting massive amps through it to try to bring it up to voltage, or the alternator or charging circuit itself has a problem.

Factory battery, close to 3 years old, replacement is where I'd start then keep a close eye on it. If you again get this level of corrosion, start measuring voltages running and off and if nothing shows up from that, have the alternator tested.
 
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Replaced the battery today with a East Penn Walmart 24f. Got 200 more cranking amps and it fit like a glove in place of the factory Group 35. 1yr warranty for $55.
 
When possible, I replace my Group 35 batteries with a Group 24F.
I've also been keeping a maintainer on my batteries. This helps to keep the battery terminal from getting or severely lessens the corrosion.

I still try to buy batteries with the removal caps. This allows me to monitor the acid level and add water if needed. Even though many folks only like to add distilled water, I just open a bottle of drinking water. Some for the battery, some for me! ;)
 
I've successfully resealed problem battery terminals using 'Amazing Goop', and also used it on new flooded batteries are a preventative. Use a flat applicator on an IPA wiped surfaces and push it into the grooves/ recesses around terminal base/ post plastic mating zone. No need for a thick bead like caulk.
A little added mechanical tooth( sharp sandpaper) can increase its hold, but is not required, however cleaning with IPA first is.

Corrosion wicking up the wire/cable insulation is bad. removing that which is visible, is not a total cure for that already wicking up under the insulation, but is of course better than leaving it to fester.

So many battery clamp terminals which have exposed wire stranding, is just an invitation for corrosion and increased resistance and at some point, bizarre electrical issues like stalling or failing to start or poor/no charging. Some Liquid E tape brushed on over the exposed stranding
when still newish and uncorroded can do wonders at preventing the corrosion from taking hold and wicking up the stranding.

'Maintenance free' flooded batteries, are best avoided in my experience, but especially when the battery is cycled deeper, such as modern vehicles that have significant parasitic loads and which are rarely driven. They require higher voltages (~15.0v) be sought then held until amps taper to near zero before they can be considered fully charged. Few smart chargers can do this, few to no vehicles can, and as such the maintenance free flooded battery never lives close to its potential, as it lives in a more chronically undercharged state than its non maintenance-free sibling would, all other factors being equal.

I equate 'maintenance free' flooded starter batteries as being marketed to the vehicle owner, who when asked when the last time they changed their oil, responds:
"changed it to what?"

Also, AGMs are not totally immune to corrosion at the battery terminals, but they are many fold less susceptible to it forming in the first place. Keeping the battery top clean would stop any AGM terminal corrosion from forming, whereas such treatment will not on a flooded battery.
 
See if the dealer will repair under warranty. If not a new battery and cables etc would be a good idea.
 
When possible, I replace my Group 35 batteries with a Group 24F.
I've also been keeping a maintainer on my batteries. This helps to keep the battery terminal from getting or severely lessens the corrosion.

I still try to buy batteries with the removal caps. This allows me to monitor the acid level and add water if needed. Even though many folks only like to add distilled water, I just open a bottle of drinking water. Some for the battery, some for me! ;)
most people over fill their batteries.
 
I didn't realize the outgassed hydrogen is corrosive.

Hydrogen can’t do much in and of itself. Just want to be clear about that. The thought is that hydrogen interacts with copper, zinc and lead, which helps create the white fluff. A possibility is a dissimilar metals interaction, not necessarily a reaction between metals (though some potential could exist there) facilitating some reaction aided by heat, moisture, and possibly trace acid. Some metals will create a white fluff without any acid, though not in the levels shown by OP. Electrolyte is likely part of the issue here. The question becomes what is the different interactions that could occur. Zinc and lead sulfate is white, while copper sulfate is blue. The coloration is a clue of the interaction/reaction. In my experience, we see blue or green. Not here. In this case, components are the same on both terminals, but sometimes the colors are not, which indicates to us the mechanism can be different per terminal. Zinc and lead don’t typically interact, but I believe zinc will interact with copper and steel, which we seem to have here.

if hydrogen is created and exists in high concentrations in certain areas, it can diffuse into metals, embrittle them, etc. If it is escaping through a bad seal it could be a path to help pull other constituents along. Then the chance for slow seepage begins. If it’s creating bubbles on the plates which pop and facilitate movement of acid, that can help. Acid crystals can then interact with recombining water inside the battery too. This could result in migration on certain parts inside. Lots of ways to skin the cat.

in the OPs picture, it looks more like orange rust to me. Iron (II) sulfate is green, while Iron (Iii) is grey-white. What I see in OP’s image is stark white with orange.
 
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Replaced the battery today with a East Penn Walmart 24f. Got 200 more cranking amps and it fit like a glove in place of the factory Group 35. 1yr warranty for $55.


You did good man... Hard to beat the East Penn made battery from Wally world. And the group 24f battery can fit at times where a group 35 was originally specd.
 
wash the top of the battery with baking soda and water. Once the terminals and posts are clean, pack thick grease around posts. Then BUY a set of those red and green felts.Red on + I soak them in oil and then grease connections. Regular old wheel bearing grease is my anti -corrosion weapon of choice :cool:
 
I need to get these for my wifes new 2020 Pilot. I've had way too many issues with Honda batteries so will be proactive.

wash the top of the battery with baking soda and water. Once the terminals and posts are clean, pack thick grease around posts. Then BUY a set of those red and green felts.Red on + I soak them in oil and then grease connections. Regular old wheel bearing grease is my anti -corrosion weapon of choice :cool:
 
Yes replace the battery with a non jc battery. These factory batteries in the Nissan's are terrible for leaking and corroding the terminals in short time. Here are some pic from a Nissan at work.
 

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Replaced the battery today with a East Penn Walmart 24f. Got 200 more cranking amps and it fit like a glove in place of the factory Group 35. 1yr warranty for $55.

You did good man... Hard to beat the East Penn made battery from Wally world. And the group 24f battery can fit at times where a group 35 was originally specd.

Is this the battery you guys are referring to? I thought the one I linked to is made by Clarios/JC. The case looks like one of theirs to me.
 
That surely is not it....

It was a East Penn made battery with a flush flat top.

You are right... That looks like a Clarios battery.
 
top post Lead acid batteries mostly suffering from gas sealing issues on the post-to-casing part. Because of that, corrosive gases seep past that gap which lead to corrosion of battery connecting posts.

to overcome that is to go seek out some chemically soaked felt rings. Noco sells them ( I believe it's called NCP2).

Been using those chemically soaked felt rings on top posted batteries for decades, never any corrosion issue.

Q.
 
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