Baldwin B2 with MoS2 Cut Open

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Here's a Baldwin B2 I ran a full OCI with MoS2 on my Jeep quite a while back. Thought I'd share as I appreciate looking at other's filters.

Not any surprises here. The Baldwin B2 is a stout filter, quality and design reminds me somewhat of a Puro Classic, but the Baldwin has a stouter feeling can, with a thread end bypass and coil spring.







The can felt thick and the spring seemed very strong. I didn't count the pleats but there were a lot of them. The ADBV was very soft and pliable and felt thicker to me than the orange can I last dissected.

This filter was run a full 3k OCI in my grimy Jeep engine with PYB and an entire can of MoS2. The filter was left standing on end for several months and the oil ran down and pooled, which makes the bottom of the media look like it's holding crud, but it's not.

Here's a shot of the base plate and gasket. It looks like the gasket didn't entirely contact the engine, I had no problems but it makes me wonder if my threads off the engine are a little off center. I look into it further I've not noticed this on any of my other filters.





Here's the media. Despite the full can of MoS2 and a dirty engine and PYB, there is nothing but a few flakes of carbon visible in the media. A little bit of a disappointment as I've been working hard to clean this engine up, but it puts to rest the notion that MoS2 gets caught by or clogs up your filter. You wouldn't have known I used MoS2 without me telling you. I have other filters that are the same way that I've not posted. Here again you can see where the oil has run down and pooled, but it's only oil, no crud in there.




I was very high on these Baldwins for a while and had absolutely no complaints, but my cheap source for them dried up so I'm back to Motorcrafts or whatever else is in my stash to use up.
 
Thanks for the pics. I enjoy looking at filters too.
If your trying to clean it up, why not run a syn like PP OR PU?
 
Baldwins as posted here many times are a good built filter,i asked last year(email)what the specs were on this filter and got this reply,

"12 nominal and 30 absolute"


was looking for much more then that but thats all they sent. I should have emailed back for more info.
 
Originally Posted By: daman
Baldwins as posted here many times are a good built filter,i asked last year(email)what the specs were on this filter and got this reply,

"12 nominal and 30 absolute"


was looking for much more then that but thats all they sent. I should have emailed back for more info.
That's one of the reasons I never really made and effort to look for them because the specs are so difficult to find.
 
Originally Posted By: 3311
Originally Posted By: daman
Baldwins as posted here many times are a good built filter,i asked last year(email)what the specs were on this filter and got this reply,

"12 nominal and 30 absolute"


was looking for much more then that but thats all they sent. I should have emailed back for more info.
That's one of the reasons I never really made and effort to look for them because the specs are so difficult to find.

A simple email to Baldwin will get you answers but getting the right tech with the right info,I usually talk to a certain Lady and shes pretty good but this time must have been a newbie.
 
Originally Posted By: KCJeep

The filter was left standing on end for several months and the oil ran down and pooled, which makes the bottom of the media look like it's holding crud, but it's not.


Here's a trick I use. After you cut the filter open and remove the guts, wrap a couple layers of absorbent paper towel around the media and secure the paper towels tightly with rubber bands. Let it sit like that for a day or two, and most of the oil will be wicked out of the media for better debris inspection.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Nice looking filter, maybe the engine really isn't that dirty thus explaining the lack of "crud" appearing (to the naked eye) in the filter.


Naw, it's filthy, I can stick a finger into the fill hole and bring out black goo...and I can see it all over the place as well.

Still runs like a top, been making very slow progress on it, the Castrol HM I've been using seems to have made the most progress so far but it's still very slow going.

So much oil on deck I haven't tried a full syn yet, but I've thought about it for sure. And I just scored 18 bottles of Edge on AAP BOGO but I don't have many hopes for that in the cleaning department, then again the Castrol HM surprised me so who knows.
 
Originally Posted By: steveh
Looks a lot better then the other "ORANGE CAN"


Yes no comparison in construction, Baldwins are actually more of a bright red sorry for poor lighting in the photos.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: KCJeep

The filter was left standing on end for several months and the oil ran down and pooled, which makes the bottom of the media look like it's holding crud, but it's not.


Here's a trick I use. After you cut the filter open and remove the guts, wrap a couple layers of absorbent paper towel around the media and secure the paper towels tightly with rubber bands. Let it sit like that for a day or two, and most of the oil will be wicked out of the media for better debris inspection.


Great tip, thanks! I'd have never thought of that.
 
Thanks for the post KCJ. Baldwin filters are very well known in the farm and trucking industries and have a great reputation. I get mine at my local NAPA. Not sure if they are available at all NAPA stores nationwide though.
 
Looks well made but you say it has thread end bypass, any way you could show that? I was under the impression that Baldwin (and Hastings) all had dome end bypass.

I see an extended portion of the centertube which holds the adbv, like many Puro's have, but no bypass apparatus (holes, spring, etc). Just wondering.
 
Here's some efficiency specs and flow for the B2-HPG. The HPG is a glass blend media.





filter.png



Flow, but I'm not sure what viscosity was used or what temp.


flow.png
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Looks well made but you say it has thread end bypass, any way you could show that? I was under the impression that Baldwin (and Hastings) all had dome end bypass.

I see an extended portion of the centertube which holds the adbv, like many Puro's have, but no bypass apparatus (holes, spring, etc). Just wondering.


If you compare it to the non-bypass B43-S you can see a difference, I am assuming this is the bypass...
B43-S12-01-12D.jpg

1358641783.JPG
 
Actually I can't see the difference and I see no thread end bypass apparatus in either filter. Just asking to OP to show a pic down the center tube for a closer look.

Your pic show no thread end bypass either, just the centertube extention which hold the adbv.

Edit: When I zoom in I now see what may be holes around the centertube extention for thread end bypass.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: daman

Flow, but I'm not sure what viscosity was used or what temp.

flow.png



The oil is probably relatively viscous since they show a 5 PISD with only 3 GPM of flow. Or, if the oil is pretty hot, then those filters are pretty restrictive to flow (relative to other filters).

The PureOne that Purolator tested for SuperBusa was showing 5 PSID with 12 GPM of hot oil at 200 deg F.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...451#Post1619451
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: daman

Flow, but I'm not sure what viscosity was used or what temp.

flow.png



The oil is probably relatively viscous since they show a 5 PISD with only 3 GPM of flow. Or, if the oil is pretty hot, then those filters are pretty restrictive to flow (relative to other filters).

The PureOne that Purolator tested for SuperBusa was showing 5 PSID with 12 GPM of hot oil at 200 deg F.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...451#Post1619451

I would agree the oil is at room temp,cool.
 
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