Ate up camshaft.pics
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eek
Thank you for posting
Thank you for posting
Originally Posted by P10crew
Chris show us pics of the rest of the top end please. Wear mating surfaces please.
I'm not at the shop. The cam journals in the head look fine. The hardened pads on the rockers are junk too.
Chris show us pics of the rest of the top end please. Wear mating surfaces please.
I'm not at the shop. The cam journals in the head look fine. The hardened pads on the rockers are junk too.
Ah. Seems to be common. There is a company that sells pre assembled heads for these.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/flat-cam-lobes-219090/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116/flat-cam-lobes-219090/
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I imagine if you had the surface hardness checked on a aftermarket cam & a factory cam.....There would be a big difference.
Of course factory reground cams would have the same issue because the surface hardening got ground away.
Of course factory reground cams would have the same issue because the surface hardening got ground away.
I don't understand why the engine rebuilder thinks he knows more about the engine than the Toyota engineers by recommending a 15w/40 diesel oil. I'm not saying that is what caused this damage but surely that thick oil is not needed. I would ask the owner to use the correct spec oil next time.
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Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Aftermarket premium Chinese camshaft?
It would seem so or a reground cam with the hardening removed. Unless the oil pump was failing, I find it difficult to believe that 15W-40 oil (no matter the brand) caused this failure.
Aftermarket premium Chinese camshaft?
It would seem so or a reground cam with the hardening removed. Unless the oil pump was failing, I find it difficult to believe that 15W-40 oil (no matter the brand) caused this failure.
Originally Posted by sloinker
Meh, it's a Toyota. Can't let those round lobes stop it from its 500k destiny.
Well I know I'm working on mine and I'm getting pretty close in the Sienna.
But this failure is not due to the oil of course, and probably not metallurgy unless some sort of grossly inferior aftermarket part was installed. It looks much more like a rebuilder error of some sort.
Meh, it's a Toyota. Can't let those round lobes stop it from its 500k destiny.
Well I know I'm working on mine and I'm getting pretty close in the Sienna.
But this failure is not due to the oil of course, and probably not metallurgy unless some sort of grossly inferior aftermarket part was installed. It looks much more like a rebuilder error of some sort.
Originally Posted by tig1
It would appear the oil is way too thick, but I would think the real problem is a soft cam. No doubt the rest of the engine is toast with the metal in the engine.
Why would the oil be way too thick? It's not cold there. I don't use 15w40 in my old 80s stuff but I'm sure it wouldn't cause any problem. I just prefer 0w40 or other grades.
I would bet 15w40 is one of the allowed grades in the owners manual for that truck. The grade shouldn't even be mentioned unless it was being run in a cold climate.
The information in the linked forum looks very helpful.
It would appear the oil is way too thick, but I would think the real problem is a soft cam. No doubt the rest of the engine is toast with the metal in the engine.
Why would the oil be way too thick? It's not cold there. I don't use 15w40 in my old 80s stuff but I'm sure it wouldn't cause any problem. I just prefer 0w40 or other grades.
I would bet 15w40 is one of the allowed grades in the owners manual for that truck. The grade shouldn't even be mentioned unless it was being run in a cold climate.
The information in the linked forum looks very helpful.
I have a 1985 Toyota 4x4 with 2.4 the head gasket blew and when I tore it down one exhaust lobe was worn exactly like those are.
It popped back through exhaust when shifting. I put new head that I got off ebay for 320.00 and new rocker assembly that was 175.00
From that point forward I have always used 4ounce bottle of zinc additive and 10w30syn in warm months and 5w30 syn and zinc jn winter.
Three years later still running strong. This engine has no roller valve train so I think the zinc is what makes a difference.
It popped back through exhaust when shifting. I put new head that I got off ebay for 320.00 and new rocker assembly that was 175.00
From that point forward I have always used 4ounce bottle of zinc additive and 10w30syn in warm months and 5w30 syn and zinc jn winter.
Three years later still running strong. This engine has no roller valve train so I think the zinc is what makes a difference.
Id definitely lean towards a crap cam, otherwise its starvation but you would have obvious symptoms. Maybe machine shop trying to make a few extra bucks.
Originally Posted by supton
Bad cam. Although could it be a (follower? lifter?) problem where it stopped rotating?
The followers don't rotate on these.
Bad cam. Although could it be a (follower? lifter?) problem where it stopped rotating?
The followers don't rotate on these.
I've put about 70k miles on my 1983 305 Chevy which were known for eating the original camshafts back in the day. I've heard it was just the original camshafts which had the problem, but I don't know that for sure. I do suspect it probably had the camshaft replaced early on because I can see orange rtv sealant around the intake manifold (cast iron intake on fast iron heads - they almost never leak as far as I know), but I don't have all the original repair history.
I did used to use zinc additive for the first several years I had the car but I think I stopped bothering about 5 years ago. So far, no issues. The engine sounds the same as it did 10 years and 70k ago. We'll see if anything bad happens in the next couple of years. I've used everything from 0w30 synthetic to 10w40 or 5w50 synthetic. Currently 0w40 Mobil 1.
At this point if it fails I'll just have to hurry up on my 5.3 ls swap. The 305 is at 235k miles now.
I'm still trying to watch any current discussions about zddp and non roller valve trains because my other car is also flat tappet and I stopped using zinc in it also. It's a 76 350 Olds which were never known for cam problems. It's got well worn factory valve springs and very low lift so it's not likely to be an issue. Also several years and quite a few miles of over the counter synthetics of various grades. I settled on 10w30 because the engine is quietest on it and it's a summer only car.
Sorry if this is off topic now because the op issue is probably a parts quality issue but oil and zinc was brought up, and I still wonder whether I made the right choice in leaving out zinc additives. Best option would be a higher zinc boutique oil like amsoil or redline and I have used them before but I realized they aren't in my budget when I can pay half price $28 for 5qts of Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum, etc and they "seem" to work fine in my engines.
I did used to use zinc additive for the first several years I had the car but I think I stopped bothering about 5 years ago. So far, no issues. The engine sounds the same as it did 10 years and 70k ago. We'll see if anything bad happens in the next couple of years. I've used everything from 0w30 synthetic to 10w40 or 5w50 synthetic. Currently 0w40 Mobil 1.
At this point if it fails I'll just have to hurry up on my 5.3 ls swap. The 305 is at 235k miles now.
I'm still trying to watch any current discussions about zddp and non roller valve trains because my other car is also flat tappet and I stopped using zinc in it also. It's a 76 350 Olds which were never known for cam problems. It's got well worn factory valve springs and very low lift so it's not likely to be an issue. Also several years and quite a few miles of over the counter synthetics of various grades. I settled on 10w30 because the engine is quietest on it and it's a summer only car.
Sorry if this is off topic now because the op issue is probably a parts quality issue but oil and zinc was brought up, and I still wonder whether I made the right choice in leaving out zinc additives. Best option would be a higher zinc boutique oil like amsoil or redline and I have used them before but I realized they aren't in my budget when I can pay half price $28 for 5qts of Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum, etc and they "seem" to work fine in my engines.
Originally Posted by GMBoy
I don't understand why the engine rebuilder thinks he knows more about the engine than the Toyota engineers by recommending a 15w/40 diesel oil. I'm not saying that is what caused this damage but surely that thick oil is not needed. I would ask the owner to use the correct spec oil next time.
That will depended on what the bearings spec'd at. If the tolerances were a little on the "loose" side during assembly, it would absolutely warrant using 15W40, 15W50, or 20W50 weight. Once an engine is overhauled and the factory tolerances change...Toyota engineering is out the window.
I don't understand why the engine rebuilder thinks he knows more about the engine than the Toyota engineers by recommending a 15w/40 diesel oil. I'm not saying that is what caused this damage but surely that thick oil is not needed. I would ask the owner to use the correct spec oil next time.
That will depended on what the bearings spec'd at. If the tolerances were a little on the "loose" side during assembly, it would absolutely warrant using 15W40, 15W50, or 20W50 weight. Once an engine is overhauled and the factory tolerances change...Toyota engineering is out the window.
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