Any benefit to galvanized brake pad backing plate
- Thread starter Donald
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Just to add to the above comments on it, I think in theory, galvanized could have some benefit for us rust belters.
Problem is, this still doesn't address contact points around the pad ears, etc, getting sticky from crud build-up, pins getting sticky, etc. For me, that's what typically kills my brakes.
Problem is, this still doesn't address contact points around the pad ears, etc, getting sticky from crud build-up, pins getting sticky, etc. For me, that's what typically kills my brakes.
twouvakind
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The NRS site:
nrsbrakes.com
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The only times I've seen pads falling apart, the brakes had been dragging and overheated. Almost all started dragging due to corrosion though. Some however had deteriorated grease for the slide pins.
Our winters are short, typically one month of salting over the whole winter season.
Doesn't take too long to clean but I've found the cleaner I get them the worse the rust returns. Don't have time to coat then area with paint and let it cure during a regular brake job though.
Never thought about that, but you're right, on a new vehicle (or new calipers) I go a few years before this problem is there, then it just gets bad and stays bad. I know some mechanics will avoid using lube on the pad ears because of its attraction for dirt but I've added it for some level of corrosion resistance. It seems to work--if not driven that much, so that the lube is still there the next time I go to work on it.
Yes I use a lube on the ears aswell and under the clips if I need to clean them. But I don't do that unless i really have too, and only remove the surface stuff, not get them shiny new.
always the ears, never the bracket (unless under the clips. Don't want to cake on brake dust where the pads need to slide.
I always do the ears, under the shim on the bracket, and on top of the shim. Caked on brake dust has never been a problem. It's nothing compared to the pressure applied to the brake pad and beats rust buildup. Just don't put so excessive an amount on that there's any risk of it getting onto the pad or rotor contact surfaces.
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I put synthetic brake grease everywhere when doing a brake job. I was taught that in a brake class I took years ago. I mean, the amount and whereabouts of grease application was almost comical, but I’ve done it for years without issue. I put it on the caliper pins, back of the pads, on the caliper piston where it meets the pads, the pad ears, the caliper mounting bracket hardware (Under and on top), everywhere.
But it will still rust, and you know what? Never seen an issue because of the rust with brakes. It rusts, the brakes don’t seem to care.
But it will still rust, and you know what? Never seen an issue because of the rust with brakes. It rusts, the brakes don’t seem to care.
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EBC, and I believe a few others, are beginning to use the 'teeth' to assist the adhesive holding the brake pad media onto the usually powdered metal or stamped/pressed backing plates. These brake plates have improved in quality in the past decade after a decade of cutting corners and offshoring. The PM plates were lacking quality and sometimes you can see the sintering 'flow'.
ebcbrakes.com
nrsbrakes.com
Problem with NSR brake pads is that they are NEVER in stock for the makes/models that I am servicing. So, I can't get them locally and can't order them from NSR.
My brake pads wear out fast enough that I don't care or need galvanized plate marketing. Maybe it'll benefit the barely touch the brake pedal crowd with their traffic causing driving style and owners that brag about brakes lasting 300k miles. I'd be lucky if I get 30k with my brake pedal leg presses.
I would have no problem using any name brand brake pad without galvanizing. I support expiration dates for tires and brakes. And, I don't believe in lifetime fluids. I also don't make my decisions based on youtube videos.
EBC yellow or orange, EHT, OEX, and ASP pads are the only pads I install. I'll only entertain others when these aren't available for the vehicle, and will usually be the same brands but lesser models. No generic cheap pads used or fly-by-night reboxers brands!
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NRS Brakes | Best Brake Pads | Longest Lasting Brake Pads
NRS Brakes offers the best brake pads in the USA and Canada. The NRS Brake Pad is an innovative, patented design with a steel backing plate and coated surface. With over 30 years of experience, NRS is able to provide brake pads that outperform all other brands on the market. Shop today!
nrsbrakes.com
Problem with NSR brake pads is that they are NEVER in stock for the makes/models that I am servicing. So, I can't get them locally and can't order them from NSR.
My brake pads wear out fast enough that I don't care or need galvanized plate marketing. Maybe it'll benefit the barely touch the brake pedal crowd with their traffic causing driving style and owners that brag about brakes lasting 300k miles. I'd be lucky if I get 30k with my brake pedal leg presses.
I would have no problem using any name brand brake pad without galvanizing. I support expiration dates for tires and brakes. And, I don't believe in lifetime fluids. I also don't make my decisions based on youtube videos.
EBC yellow or orange, EHT, OEX, and ASP pads are the only pads I install. I'll only entertain others when these aren't available for the vehicle, and will usually be the same brands but lesser models. No generic cheap pads used or fly-by-night reboxers brands!
slow drivers tewnd to have loads of brake dust accumulating, and getting pads to stick more than I would like.
I've seen them rust quite bad, where I have to use a chisel and hammer to get the pads out. Without greasing the ears or under the shims of course.
Seems a bit backwards, slow drivers don't have to apply their brakes as much, creating less dust, but the slower the pads wear, the longer the rust has to build up.
It's just a matter of putting the grease on so it doesn't rust much, using a viscous silicone paste so it also doesn't separate or thin as much from heat. My pads never get stuck driving on salted roads all winter. *Sometimes* (if the ear of the pad is poorly stamped) I'll true up the pad ears a bit with a file before installation.
Biggest problem I see is on other peoples' vehicles where the last time they had brakes done, they took it to a shop that just does a pull & slap to swap pads, doing nothing to clean any rust off and not necessarily using any grease. There are even mechanics that advocate how to do this quickly to maximize profit, instead of doing it right. They figure it only has to work when it leaves the shop, instead of as long as possible.
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I see no benefit to galvanized brake backing pads. OEM are NOT "Galvanized then painted." Galvanizing is a form of rust prevention, like painting or coating; hot dip galvanizing is basically dunking parts in a liquid zinc bath at ~450C. https://www.galvanizing.org.uk/galvanizing-process/ There is no sense painting over galvanizing; try to find someone who advertises their products as such? I also contend that Raybestos EHT pad backing are NOT stainless, since their website is detailed enough to point out that the pads come with "stainless steel hardware" but mentions nothing about the composition of the backing pad: https://www.brakepartsinc.com/raybestos/products/friction/element3-pads.html
My opinion of galvanizing brake pads is YES to the OP's question: the galvanizing is a solution looking for a problem; and no manufacturer will ever make disc brake backing plates out of stainless, it is just too cost prohibitive, they'll price themselves right out of sales.
The only reason pads ears "swell up" is that the coating has failed, moisture has gotten under the coating and it is trapped, causing rust and "swell." Lots of pad ears rust but do not "swell," (see photos previous page doitmyself) As PT Barnum said, "There's one born every minute." As many have already well stated, I just use grease where appropriate; whatever is your favorite. That's a separate discussion.
My opinion of galvanizing brake pads is YES to the OP's question: the galvanizing is a solution looking for a problem; and no manufacturer will ever make disc brake backing plates out of stainless, it is just too cost prohibitive, they'll price themselves right out of sales.
The only reason pads ears "swell up" is that the coating has failed, moisture has gotten under the coating and it is trapped, causing rust and "swell." Lots of pad ears rust but do not "swell," (see photos previous page doitmyself) As PT Barnum said, "There's one born every minute." As many have already well stated, I just use grease where appropriate; whatever is your favorite. That's a separate discussion.
I do see delamination occasionally but mostly on vehicles that sit a long time (not weeks or a few months) outside on dirt or gravel, everything else is rotten also, calipers, pins, etc. It would be a rare occurrence with a daily driver, I cant say it would be something I am looking to part with my money for.
My Tundra will seize the front pads. I mean, it'll lose the front brakes, and then I have to hammer out the pads. I blame having a large (long) backing plate to caliper surface area. [No amount of standing on the brakes will bust it loose.] Might be from not being a daily driver, dunno.
I had a pad delaminate once, no brakes until the remaining backing plate pushed out (5, 6 pumps?). Thankfully it was early morning and I wasn't awake enough to know what was going on--I just pumped the brakes several times. Ever since I've taken to yearly inspections once the pads are past a couple of years. So far, 5 years is the magical number. 5 and then I can spot some erosion. That is on my daily drivers, so 5 years is like 125k. YMMV, but I'm at 3 or 4 times so far.
Oh wait--my old home had a dirt driveway, maybe at my new house (with pavement and a garage that is almost heated) it'd be different? I've already noticed rust is getting worse due to being garaged. *sigh* Life in New England can be rough.
I had a pad delaminate once, no brakes until the remaining backing plate pushed out (5, 6 pumps?). Thankfully it was early morning and I wasn't awake enough to know what was going on--I just pumped the brakes several times. Ever since I've taken to yearly inspections once the pads are past a couple of years. So far, 5 years is the magical number. 5 and then I can spot some erosion. That is on my daily drivers, so 5 years is like 125k. YMMV, but I'm at 3 or 4 times so far.
Oh wait--my old home had a dirt driveway, maybe at my new house (with pavement and a garage that is almost heated) it'd be different? I've already noticed rust is getting worse due to being garaged. *sigh* Life in New England can be rough.
Probably some benefit to galvanizing, but there are other ways of imparting corrosion resistance to backing plates, including other plating types, quality coatings, etc. that are probably just as effective. For the most part, almost all of my replacement pads have worn out well before rust on the backing plate became an issue. Only one time did I get a set of super cheap brake pads made in India where the backing plates disintegrated in less than 2 years and in doing so seperated from the pad.
There must be some difference in grades of steel that affect corrosion resistance... just has to be, unless the coating quality drives corrosion resistance. Aside from the cheap brake pad example above, i had purchased an aftermarket exhaust system for a Toyota Cressida. The next day after installation, it rained. The exhaust pipe and muffler turned orange (rust) and the moisture/rain water dripping from the muffler/pipes was concentrated rusty water. “Hmmm, this is odd” i thought to myself. The muffler disintegrated rapidly and failed completely in one year. Will never forget that exhaust system... It was insane! Maybe the exhaust system just had no corrosion resistant coating on it?
There must be some difference in grades of steel that affect corrosion resistance... just has to be, unless the coating quality drives corrosion resistance. Aside from the cheap brake pad example above, i had purchased an aftermarket exhaust system for a Toyota Cressida. The next day after installation, it rained. The exhaust pipe and muffler turned orange (rust) and the moisture/rain water dripping from the muffler/pipes was concentrated rusty water. “Hmmm, this is odd” i thought to myself. The muffler disintegrated rapidly and failed completely in one year. Will never forget that exhaust system... It was insane! Maybe the exhaust system just had no corrosion resistant coating on it?
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