Amsoil - Worth it?

[4WD]

Not worth the hype.

You probably don’t run long enough OCI’s to need Amsoil SS like Harry does …

 

[Pablo]

Not worth the hype.

Every product?

Come on man. Even the gear oils?

 

[Zee09]

Think I elected to ignore this before … but now can’t. First it was humor meant to make a point. Thinking others see that. But since then, in your attempts to be the wiseman here … you ran into some of them, at that‘s been humorous
Carry on …

Yeah you just made my day to.

 

[madeej11]

It is a good product just depends on how it fits in your maintenance of the vehicle. Do you need it or just want it ? Yes it can be costly but what I have learned over the years is just because you spend a lot of money on oil does not necessarily mean it is better than the oil that is on sale. Shopping around for deals can sometimes be fun. :--))

Good Luck

Yeah, I just love browsing the shelves at WM, coupon clipping is right up there also. In fact maybe you could meet up with JJ and double the fun!

 

[Kira]

I read this entire thread whilst drinking coffee and listening to our 20 year old cat bellow. He just sits and bellows.
That Volvo designates synthetics during severe conditions with the same OCI is telling.

1) I "always thought" synthetics have no wax left in 'em so they'll likely produce less sludge. My car was a short tripper in hot 'n humid Washington, D.C. and had characteristic black chunks in the filler neck.
I wish the PO had used any synthetic.
Common synthetic oil would've been worth my additional pennies.

2) A WIX UOA kit (RockAuto) after a factory recommended 7,500 mi. OCI on basic Mobil1 5W-30 showed "10%" of it's life left.
Lots of highway miles there.

3) With lots more short trips during COVID I've settled on 6,000+ mile OCI's to combat fuel dilution effect.
The affordability of good oils makes the price of repeated OCI's cost ineffective in my case.
Fleet use and/or huge sumped engines provide the data stream needed for exacting calculations.

4) Paying for multiple UOA's in order to double or triple a 5,000 or 6,000 mile OCI using oils which cost double or triple is a "no gain pain"

Keep it clean by dumping nasty, smelly oil while it still has a breath of life left in it. I'd analogize it to dusting off and lightly repolishing a pair of good shoes in daily use.
I think the comparison to dumping half consumed beers is off target.

And yes, I bought Amsoil for my sister's diffs. See, I wanna play too.

 

[OVERKILL]

I read this entire thread whilst drinking coffee and listening to our 20 year old cat bellow. He just sits and bellows.
That Volvo designates synthetics during severe conditions with the same OCI is telling.

1) I "always thought" synthetics have no wax left in 'em so they'll likely produce less sludge. My car was a short tripper in hot 'n humid Washington, D.C. and had characteristic black chunks in the filler neck.
I wish the PO had used any synthetic.
Common synthetic oil would've been worth my additional pennies.

2) A WIX UOA kit (RockAuto) after a factory recommended 7,500 mi. OCI on basic Mobil1 5W-30 showed "10%" of it's life left.
Lots of highway miles there.

3) With lots more short trips during COVID I've settled on 6,000+ mile OCI's to combat fuel dilution effect.
The affordability of good oils makes the price of repeated OCI's cost ineffective in my case.
Fleet use and/or huge sumped engines provide the data stream needed for exacting calculations.

4) Paying for multiple UOA's in order to double or triple a 5,000 or 6,000 mile OCI using oils which cost double or triple is a "no gain pain"

Keep it clean by dumping nasty, smelly oil while it still has a breath of life left in it. I'd analogize it to dusting off and lightly repolishing a pair of good shoes in daily use.
I think the comparison to dumping half consumed beers is off target.

And yes, I bought Amsoil for my sister's diffs. See, I wanna play too.

Sludge has nothing to do with wax content. Wax crystallization is what creates cold temp pumping problems and why oils are dosed with PPD's to push down the temperature of when that occurs.

Sludge is the byproduct of moisture and oxidation/degradation and contamination. Basically, sludge would turn to varnish if it didn't have moisture.

 

[Kira]

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[kschachn]

Although it is expensive, it offers your engine enhanced performance and protection. First, Amsoil synthetic products resists breakdown under high temperatures. It also resists change in viscosity better than other synthetic oils. Thus, it ensures a longer lifespan for your engine. Because it does not break down, Amsoil offers an extended drain interval. This saves you a lot of maintenance costs. Amsoil also gives you better performance for your vehicle.

You don’t happen to sell this magic, do you?

 

[nomas]

Somehow I've managed to own and maintain vehicles for nearly 50 years without using anything more exotic than Mobil 1 and very little of that even . NEVER an oil related issue . YMMV .

 

[Gearheadmark]

To know whether or not if Amsoil is good or not, one has to perform a spectral analysis on used oil.

BUUUUT......

It has to be from a source user that operates under identical conditions with Brand A, Brand M, Brand C, or Brand "Whatever". Otherwise every opinion is just that, an opinion with one foot rooted in reality, and the other in personal observation.

Personally, Amsoil is spending money needlessly.

Coming from McLaren Engines', Lotus Engineering's and Chrysler's dynamometer labs, THE biggest influencers is making sure your engine oil runs at at least 250ºF to no more than 305ºF, do frequent oil changes, proper viscosity for the engine clearances used, and the use of a good quality oil will assure a long engine life in street use.

There are many other factors that will affect engine longevity. Short trips, frequent start-stop cycles, and high dirt environments will kill engines "quickly".

One of the better things one can do for your vehicle is to take it out for a 50 mile drive, once a week.

 

[kschachn]

BUUUT a “spectral analysis” isn’t how you determine the performance of an oil.

 

[Gearheadmark]

BUUUT a “spectral analysis” isn’t how you determine the performance of an oil.

Spectral analysis will give you additive package breakdown, will tell you what aromatics are in the oil, give you how moisture and coolant content in the oil, and will tell you metallic components as well as various readouts of other components either base or manufactured by the "engine".

You are technically correct that it will not give one the performance of the oil per se, but will give one a VERY good understanding of how a particular oil/engine interact with each other.

Being able to measure an engine on a dynamometer will also provide how well an oil performs. Measuring engine friction, torque output, crankcase blowby, temperatures, pressures and being able to measure oil consumption down to the milligram are among the myriad ways one can determine oil performs.

Some tests used include Performance Development, 1000 Hour General Durability, Piston Scuff, Deep Thermal Shock, Friction Reduction among others.

For many to say a particular oil is the best, are blanket statements at best.

I stand by what I said above:

"THE biggest influencers is making sure your engine oil runs at at least 250ºF to no more than 305ºF, do frequent oil changes, proper viscosity (and type) for the engine clearances used, and the use of a good quality oil will assure a long engine life in street use". and to take "your vehicle' 'out for a 50 mile drive, once a week."

 

[kschachn]

At least you’re getting closer.