AmazonBasics 5W40 Euro, 4774 miles, Ford 3.7 Liter Duratec,

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Vehicle: 2019 Lincoln MKT Livery Engine: Ford 3.7 Liter Duratec V6 Driving style: Used for livery in NYC area Oil filter: Royal Purple Air filter: Motorcraft Oil: Amazon Basics 5W40 Euro (Warren Distributing) Rightmost column is Mobil Turbo Diesel Truck with BG MOA, middle column is Amsoil Signature Series 5W30...currently have SuperTech 5W30 in the engine and that will be next. Not interested in extended oil drain. Firm believer in 5000 mile interval. The 5W40 type oils I did notice less chatter and a quieter engine. I spend my day driving and I notice these things. The 5W20 oil that is speced for the engine really made it chatter. The thicker oil made it feel more refined. [Linked Image]
 
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Very cool! It'd be interesting to see a UOA of a Dexos2/ACEA C3 xW-40 synthetic. It'd be also interesting to follow your engine long-term to see when the water pump will fail and whether your use of xW-40 oils helps prolong the pump bearing.
 
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Water pump longevity has nothing to do with the oil at all. All water pumps will fail its just a matter of when. You could change the coolant at half the suggested interval but there is no real data out there which suggests that will make it last longer. All of my vehicles have a 150k/4 year warranty so if I were to keep it beyond 150k I would pre-emptively have the pump changed. Another thing which can be done is oil testing. If there is coolant finding its way into the oil then the pump might be going, but in a lot of cases the pump just goes without warning. Im well aware of the water pump issue and I would say the pump life is probably about 150k. Fortunately the pump is the only problem thing of this engine.
 
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On a side note C3 oil might help with the cat converter which goes out beyond 150k but I have no data to support that. Cats are expensive so using Penzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 at Walmart for $22 per 5 liters would be a workable idea in that regard. Its a thick 5W30. That will be the oil I test after the Supertech.
 
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Ultimately I think what Im going to find with this engine is it doesnt matter what oil I feed it...I will get the same result. Thus on this next round is going to be SuperTech 5W30 from Warren and after that Penzoil. This is a port injection engine and one of the older ones in service. Its known for its reliability and I cant say the same for Ecoboost variants. I think the Penzoil C3 oil might be the one I settle on because if all the oils turn in similar results then Ill focus on being kind to the emissions...but again...I have not seen any data on how C3 oil prolongs a cat converter. I just see speculative statements with no data to back it. At $22 for 5 quarts I can live with that. A converter costs a lot of $$$ so Ill trust the speculative statements and go with a C3.
 
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So next oils for this machine will be... Supertech 5W30 High Mileage Full Synthetic Penzoil Euro L C3 5W30 Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 then I can come to a conclusion. I will be complete by June with my asessment. Right now Im assuming Im going to see similad results.
 
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Originally Posted by Navi
Water pump longevity has nothing to do with the oil at all. All water pumps will fail its just a matter of when. You could change the coolant at half the suggested interval but there is no real data out there which suggests that will make it last longer. All of my vehicles have a 150k/4 year warranty so if I were to keep it beyond 150k I would pre-emptively have the pump changed. Another thing which can be done is oil testing. If there is coolant finding its way into the oil then the pump might be going, but in a lot of cases the pump just goes without warning. Im well aware of the water pump issue and I would say the pump life is probably about 150k. Fortunately the pump is the only problem thing of this engine.
The pump bearings aren't sealed based on what I saw when they sliced two of them in half. So engine oil would have a big role to play. The overheated bearings could then cause the shaft seal to fail, resulting in coolant mixing with the oil. Police departments change the pump every 50k miles. I don't think many people reach 150k before their pumps failed. I've seen reports as early as 27k miles to mainly sub-100k miles.
 
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This is the same basic design of the 3.5 that was used in Tauruses also correct? My mom gave her 2010 (bought new) to my sister at about 240k miles. About 250k now I'm guessing. Original water pump still and I've seen a 2014 with 270k on the original pump. We never saw one in the shop for this problem, so while it's a fatal flaw once it does fail I don't think many of them fail early. An f150 with the v6 came in with a main bearing knock and losing coolant but it turned out to be head gaskets instead.
 
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Ive had many vehicles and the cat usually goes on all of them at around 150k or so. Ive had Toyotas, Chevys, etc...they will go somewhere around that time... As for the water pump it is long lasting. One guy told me that he got an MKT to 400,000 miles and never touched the water pump, but he did change the cat at 180k. So if I ever did change the water pump pre-emptively it would be out of paranoia...the fear of fate like the warranty expiring and the water pump giving out and the fact that it would be very embarrassing if the vehicle got stuck somewhere with a passenger. Im not sure what the future holds for that MKT, but when the 150k warranty is set to expire I will think about it a bit more. It probably wont need to get changed at 150k...it will last longer...but when you in this business you do act out of paranoia at times with the car to be on the safe side.
 
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Oils with the same API rating will turn in similar results which your chart is showing and will be further confirmed with your future UOAs. Thanks for posting.
 
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SR5

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Originally Posted by loneryder
Phos and Z are low for a "Euro 5-40"
Yes, other Euro oils like M1, PP-Euro or Edge 0/5W40 also carry OEM spec's like MB 229.5, BMW LL-01 or Porsche A40 and these oils typically have about 1000 ppm Zinc. This oil is living up to it's name of being Basic. It only meets ACEA A3/B4 (which is a good spec) but no Euro OEM specs and it carries a typical ILSAC GF-5 like level of Zinc at 832 ppm. Not bad, but nothing special either. Still it did it's job, wear metals are fine.
 
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The ACEA is the European version of our API and ACEA A3B3 is an industry standard good spec. All the Euro oils have to meet some version of it, just like here in the United States where all OEM oils meet one of the API designations. So we really are talking about the fact that Amazon Basics has not applied for certifications with specific manufacturers, like here in the USA that doesnt mean the oils do not meet the specification. Its just that they dont go any further with getting OEM approvals etc or paying royalties to the OEM but carries the industry standard certification from the API and in Europe the ACEA. ACEA is Pointless for the OP though, as he has a Ford Duratec.
 

SR5

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Originally Posted by alarmguy
So we really are talking about the fact that Amazon Basics has not applied for certifications with specific manufacturers, like here in the USA that doesnt mean the oils do not meet the specification.
While not having an OEM spec, does not mean it could not meet it, think Chrysler MS-6395, which most meet but few carry (like M1). But in this case these Euro OEM spec are quite rigorous and not at all easy to meet, think Castrol Edge 5W40 which isn't MB 229.5 because it's Noack is just above 10% rather than below. I think in this case with Amazon Basics it's safer to say it doesn't have the OEMs because it doesn't meet the requirements. That's not to say it's a bad oil, it's Euro ACEA A3/B4 and American API SN, so that's a good basic oil that I would use in many applications. If they up dated it to API SN-Plus with A3/B4 it would be even better as it would be safe for TDGI applications.
 
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Originally Posted by metroplex
Some police departments change water pumps every 50k on the 3.5 EcoBoost/3.7 V6
Seems like a waste of money from my experience. I did see one YouTube video of one that failed at 185k but I think that's the exception.
 
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A recent Ford 150 eco boost goes by my place everyday and sounds like a noisy diesel. I figure he is using a xx-20. Just doesn't sound good.
 
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Originally Posted by metroplex
The pump bearings aren't sealed based on what I saw when they sliced two of them in half. So engine oil would have a big role to play. The overheated bearings could then cause the shaft seal to fail, resulting in coolant mixing with the oil.
So what would a 5W-40 have to do with this? Thicker oils can actually generate more heat...
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Police departments change the pump every 50k miles. I don't think many people reach 150k before their pumps failed. I've seen reports as early as 27k miles to mainly sub-100k miles.
Which police dept's where? Do you have any sort of bulletin for this?
 
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