AC shaft seal leak - Replace compressor or seal?

Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
173
Location
Ontario, Canada
On my 95 Nissan the shaft seal is leaking on the AC compressor. It isn't slinging oil like crazy, but the face of the compressor is damp with oil. The AC is still ice cold and blows sub 40F Temps even on 90F+ days. Is it worth replacing just the shaft seal? I would still have to recover the refrigerant but it is also $30 ish for the seal vs $500+ for a new compressor. The truck sits all winter and I suspect that is why it leaks.

I do my own AC work but have my mechanic friend recover the 134a for me. He says I should just put a new (not reman) compressor on it, but I'd like to get some more opinions before I proceed. I also have a used one off of a parts car that's been sitting in my garage for years. Unknown condition. Worth the risk? I try not to run it right now incase the oil level is too low.
 
I had the same issue with my 1997 Ford Explorer and I just replaced the compressor. The Explorer had 198,000 miles compressor well used. Put in a new one from Rock Auto Denso brand for less than $200.00.
 
Forget trying to replace the seal, it is an exercise in futility.
With a vehicle that old I would just run it as-is and keep it topped-up with freon. Use the R134a that has oil in it.
The worst thing that can happen is that you will have to go ahead and replace the compressor.
 
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Put a new seal in my 1997 Ranger for $30; it's working well. If you have the know-how, why not give it a shot?

You have a lot of options - the $500 one sounds the worst to me.
 
Installing the seal without buggering up the lip is the tricky part. I’d throw on a new Chinese compressor of known quality.
 
Lot of work to replace the seal, recharge and then have an old compressor fail later. Since you are evacuating it, throw on a new compressor, and dryer while its empty.
 
While you have the compressor off be sure to back flush all hoses and coils with air brake line flush. let it all dry good after you blow it out. you will be rewarded for taking the time to do this. Advance Auto has a flushing cylinder that you fill with flush and pressurize with your compressor. Usually lots of snot comes out.
 
While you have the compressor off be sure to back flush all hoses and coils with air brake line flush. let it all dry good after you blow it out. you will be rewarded for taking the time to do this. Advance Auto has a flushing cylinder that you fill with flush and pressurize with your compressor. Usually lots of snot comes out.
Yes, all the oil certainly does. If you flush a system like this you must be certain to add the correct amount of the correct oil back in. And not all in one component. It's not necessary to flush a previously operating system that was not contaminated or had a catastrophic compressor failure.
 
I guess I'll just go and toss on a new one then, I really don't want to have to go back in there again. Of course when I decide to do this the rear brakes start making noise so that's the more urgent repair.

It was over $500 to get one locally in Canada, prices seem better on Rockauto. Just looked tonight and I have the DKV14C compressor. Never heard of UAC before. No options for new it looks like on there. Napa doesn't even list that model but I suspect both would work. Looks like 766 for new. Also see new Chinese on eBay for 250~ plus shipping.

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The condenser was replaced 2 years ago. I did not replace the dryer at the time, but I did vacuum the system for almost 2 hours. This time I will replace it. I think it would be good to flush it out. I am the 2nd owner of this vehicle and while I have all the records for it, the AC was never serviced apparently until I got it 10 years ago. We did add the amount of oil the service manual says to add when replacing the condenser.

Looks like we have some shopping around to do. I'm also tempted to run it as is since it works so well, just afraid of it running out of oil and locking up, sending metal throughout the lines.
 
While you have the compressor off be sure to back flush all hoses and coils with air brake line flush. let it all dry good after you blow it out. you will be rewarded for taking the time to do this. Advance Auto has a flushing cylinder that you fill with flush and pressurize with your compressor. Usually lots of snot comes out.

I've never heard of this, we don't have Advance Auto in Canada but maybe Napa has something similar. I would like to do this on another vehicle I have that the previous owner put frigging stop leak in.
 
Slightly off topic:

A 1995 is a "classic" car. The reality of supply and demand means that the ideal used car age for parts is around just above the median car age of the US fleet (so 12 years plus a couple). That's what the parts aftermarket will concentrate on, and also a steady supply of junked vehicles. Consider selling it and picking up a 2007 +/- SUV.
 
If you do attempt to replace a shaft seal, please post a video of it for our review and criticism.
I definitely would if I do. I would even take apart the old one just out of curiosity.

Slightly off topic:

A 1995 is a "classic" car. The reality of supply and demand means that the ideal used car age for parts is around just above the median car age of the US fleet (so 12 years plus a couple). That's what the parts aftermarket will concentrate on, and also a steady supply of junked vehicles. Consider selling it and picking up a 2007 +/- SUV.
Agreed, but it isn't my daily driver (My 04 VW is). In fact I just got Hagerty's insurance approved on it because it is a classic. But you are correct, parts are getting harder to find. Not that they were exactly easy to find way back then either. The fact that I work from home means my cars are purely for pleasure use now, and I don't really rack up that much mileage.
 
Given the vehicles age, I wouldn't be expending $$ on a new compressor. If you can purchase the seal and service the compressor, go for it. Otherwise adios A/C.
 
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