94 b4000 overheat update

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270
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kansas
So my 94 b4000 is still overheating after replacing the water pump. The main two responses to the last post were air in system and possibly headgasket. I purchased the headgasket combustion leak test kit and it came negative and also a spill proof funnel and tried to burp the system. However when letting the car run after heating up the coolant would come to the top of the funnel. It would rise and fall with an upward trend toward rising. Upon shutting off the vehicle it would immediately drop back to within the radiator. Would this be indicative of a clog in the system somewhere or am i just chasing ghosts? no coolant was added and the coolant level did not change at all. I am leaning toward the water pump just being bum.
 

HyundaiAbuser

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Originally Posted by ad244
Plugged Radiator?
Itd be a shame, the radiator is less than two years old and i just took it out and flushed through every coolant opening with a hose.
 
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If it's hot, does the rad fan blow nice hot air rearward? It should. If it doesn't it's bad water flow, fan clutch, or clogged rad.
 

HyundaiAbuser

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Originally Posted by eljefino
If it's hot, does the rad fan blow nice hot air rearward? It should. If it doesn't it's bad water flow, fan clutch, or clogged rad.
ill have to check tomorrow, couldnt tell off of memory. I forgot to mention i ran a flush through the heater core hoses with the drain on the radiator open and the drain itsself got plugged up. The radiator then filled to the top and i had to pull the lower hose. Then hooked hose up to the drain port with the lower hose off and flushed out that way. I havn't seen any tangible contaminants but it would appear as though they're there.
 
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Is the overflow hose from the radiator to the reservoir clear? And the fitting at the top of the reservoir where the hose connects? Since the radiator drain plugged up, I'd be very suspicious of that. I flushed everything I could out of the radiator in my 1994 Ranger when I got it, and still had to put a new one in to get the temperature to not creep towards high. I know you said it's only a couple years old, but if there's enough junk to stop up the drain, there's probably enough junk to clog a tube. I wonder if flushing might have shifted something around, but didn't clear it out. I kind of doubt trapped air. I've never done very much to bleed the cooling systems on my 4.0s...a good long drive always seems to do it.
 

HyundaiAbuser

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Originally Posted by 01rangerxl
Is the overflow hose from the radiator to the reservoir clear? And the fitting at the top of the reservoir where the hose connects? Since the radiator drain plugged up, I'd be very suspicious of that. I flushed everything I could out of the radiator in my 1994 Ranger when I got it, and still had to put a new one in to get the temperature to not creep towards high. I know you said it's only a couple years old, but if there's enough junk to stop up the drain, there's probably enough junk to clog a tube. I wonder if flushing might have shifted something around, but didn't clear it out. I kind of doubt trapped air. I've never done very much to bleed the cooling systems on my 4.0s...a good long drive always seems to do it.
I have almost been waiting for some sort of input from you after seeing your tag throughout random forums lol. But that sounds like a good idea that I will have to try tomorrow. When i ran water through the system it appeared to have an orange/reddish tint to it like there was some sort of contaminants or rust in there but nothing really tangible. I know that air can get through the overflow tube but im not sure if coolant flows freely.
 
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With those symptoms and facts I'd probably be looking at the radiator. Although I've never backflushed a heater core into a radiator. Was any stopleak ever used?
 

HyundaiAbuser

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Originally Posted by Rand
With those symptoms and facts I'd probably be looking at the radiator. Although I've never backflushed a heater core into a radiator. Was any stopleak ever used?
There was at one point a good while back. I didnt flush the heater core back i just used the hoses to flush the block out hopefully.
 
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Remove radiator turn it upside down and back-flush. It should be possible to send the full flow of a garden hose into one end and have it almost instantly come out the other. If not, the core is clogged. As @Rand said, always best to disconnect the hoses and flush each part separately so you're not just moving dirt around.
 

HyundaiAbuser

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Originally Posted by andyd
what does the coolant look like? Also,wasn't the OHV 4.0 prone to intake manifold gasket leaks?
The coolant at this point is just water it has been flushed and washed through repeatedly. But beforehand held green color well and when running through the block water comes out an orangish tint.
 
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