30 monograde

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392
Location
South Carolina
Thread starter
I have a 2001 Craftsman tractor I got real cheap. It has a flat twin Craftsman Briggs & Stratton motor. Do I need to run lawn mower 30 weight or will any 30 weight brand work? Coastal 30 weight a lot cheaper than the Briggs & Stratton 30 weight.
 
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15,070
Location
Upper Midwest
First off it is grade, not weight. And besides the grade the manufacturer is also giving a license or specification. What is it?
 
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24,831
Location
Upstate NY
We are talking about oil for a riding mower, so 1 QT. Does cost really make a difference for 1 QT of oil a year? Given SC I might run some synthetic 10W30 or 5W30 to deal with the heat of SC in the summer. Its air cooled via fins that are half clogged with grass.
 
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10,000
Location
Waco, TX
Originally Posted by CT8
15W-40 heavy duty engine oil works well,
Same. Been running "whatever 15W-40 is on sale" in all air cooled engines for over 30 years.
 
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4,839
Location
VA
It depends on your affection for this tractor. Most any 30 weight would be fine if you aren't really looking for a long term relationship. I'm more with Donalds's advice here. Most small engine oils (that I am aware of, Amsoil) have much higher levels of protective additives that cannot be used in auto oils. I use a synthetic small engine oil in my mowers.
 
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621
Location
CA
If there is anything that we have learned from the Project Farm videos on youtube its that you can almost run anything and a small engine will hold up.
 
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2,135
Location
Texas
Originally Posted by Eddie
That B&S twin take about 2 quarts of oil.
Negative. The horizontally opposed flathead twin takes 48oz.
 
Messages
1,739
Location
Cincinnati, USA
It will hold up fine long term using any major brand of 30wt detergent oil if only used spring through fall or in a warmer climate. If you might frequently use it in your 3 coldest winter months then go for 10W-30.
 
Messages
3,511
Location
Slovenia EU
Originally Posted by Eddie
Use a good 10w30 or 15w40 synthetic oil and forget it. That engine may have a oil filter also. Ed
Problem here is that you are talking about USA 30w oils....wich are ILSAC/API crap.... But what you really want in an aircooled OPE is oil with higher HTHS... Thats why here is so many happy users of 15w40 HDEOs....40w oils are not "infected" with that CAFE nonsense smile
 

CT8

Messages
15,408
Location
Idaho
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by Eddie
That B&S twin take about 2 quarts of oil.
Negative. The horizontally opposed flathead twin takes 48oz.
48 oz. requires initially the purchase of 2 quart containers unless a 4 or 5 qt container is purchased. No?
 
Messages
1,122
Location
Wisconsin
Originally Posted by CT8
Originally Posted by wag123
Originally Posted by Eddie
That B&S twin take about 2 quarts of oil.
Negative. The horizontally opposed flathead twin takes 48oz.
48 oz. requires initially the purchase of 2 quart containers unless a 4 or 5 qt container is purchased. No?
Dollar tree sells it in 16oz (pint) bottles
 
Messages
913
Location
Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by Kamele0N
But what you really want in an aircooled OPE is oil with higher HTHS... That's why here is so many happy users of 15w40 HDEOs....40w oils are not "infected" with that CAFE nonsense smile
One of our elder sages here has commented that monograde SAE 30 typically has a 3.7 HTHS viscosity. Personally I run Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage with 3.5 HTHS in most of my OPE for that reason. 15w-40 would certainly be a good option for a lawn mower in South Carolina. The only time I've ever used 15w-40 for OPE up north here in PA was on a leaf vacuum that used a lot of oil. Starting it was a really tough pull in cold weather. That machine is gone now, but some of that oil still remains. Bar oil for the chainsaw maybe?
 
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