2020 Veloster N oil

Messages
17
Location
California
Hi everyone, I'm new here so sorry for any stupid questions I may ask. I am about ready to do the first oil change on my Veloster N and I wanted some opinions, the manual states "API Latest, ILSAC latest, or ACEA C2". Which from what I gather is a rather wide range of oils, I picked up some 5w30 Castrol Edge(Chose Castrol because I use it on my old Jaguar XJ and it loves it). My question is, the oil is rated as SN Plus and GF-5 but not ACEA C2, would you still recommend to use it? The engine is a Theta III engine I believe with 275hp 260trq. Again sorry if this seems silly, but this is the first newer performance car I have owned and want to get it right from the get-go. The oil I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ICSWGJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Messages
599
Location
Ontario, Canada
Castrol Edge is a great oil, some other oils such as Mobil do not have Chrysler spec. You will be fine. For example Mobil is factory fill on porches, I'm sure it is perfectly serviceable in a lower clearance tolerant engine than Chrysler. I used it in my ram and in my Jeep. You will be fine with that oil! Some companies just do not want to waste money on constantly getting specs or changing specs to meet a auto manufacturer specification every second year it seems.
 
Messages
599
Location
Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by VelosterN
Hi everyone, I'm new here so sorry for any stupid questions I may ask. I am about ready to do the first oil change on my Veloster N and I wanted some opinions, the manual states "API Latest, ILSAC latest, or ACEA C2". Which from what I gather is a rather wide range of oils, I picked up some 5w30 Castrol Edge(Chose Castrol because I use it on my old Jaguar XJ and it loves it). My question is, the oil is rated as SN Plus and GF-5 but not ACEA C2, would you still recommend to use it? The engine is a Theta III engine I believe with 275hp 260trq. Again sorry if this seems silly, but this is the first newer performance car I have owned and want to get it right from the get-go. The oil I purchased: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ICSWGJ0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 EDIT: I just realized that I may have posted in the wrong section, sorry frown
Also how does that thing drive? Heard good things about it.
 

VelosterN

Thread starter
Messages
17
Location
California
I love it! it has an absurd amount of grip in corners for a front-wheel-drive car. plus the functional anit-lag pops and bangs are music to my ears. Best bang for your buck in the hot hatch segment IMO.
 
Messages
599
Location
Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by VelosterN
I love it! it has an absurd amount of grip in corners for a front-wheel-drive car. plus the functional anit-lag pops and bangs are music to my ears. Best bang for your buck in the hot hatch segment IMO.
Definitely good bang for your buck, and I would imagine there is a lot of room for tuning, mods etc to squeeze a bit more out of it. Plus only so much power front drive will take before you start getting into massive understeer.
 
Messages
841
Location
Upper midwest
Just remember you approved to run 5w-40 so if thrash the heck out of it, that is a good option. Every turbo Hyundai is approved for 5w-40. I have not settled on my oil in my 2 inch lowered Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T. I am using Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP in Minnesota winters. I was using Delo 5w-40 XSP but Hyundai forum guy said he had foaming in a older tuner car he had with it, so I pulled it. I will most likely go with Pennzoil Euro 5w-40 in the summers. I do want to try to get a low calcium oil for LSPI, which I might add, I had an event so I am concerned about it. It won't take another one I bet. Also change out your plugs every 30,000 mile and ONLY use Hyundai's NGK's for warranty. There have been issues with 2.0 liter turbos cracking insulator noses and cracking insulators then trashing motors. I have not heard of any N's yet having that issue, but I don't follow N sites much.
 

VelosterN

Thread starter
Messages
17
Location
California
Thanks, for the info. if/when I track the car I'll fill it with some 5w40 but it's my daily driver so I dont beat on it too hard, I'm fine with 5w30.
 
Messages
599
Location
Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted by VelosterN
Thanks, for the info. if/when I track the car I'll fill it with some 5w40 but it's my daily driver so I dont beat on it too hard, I'm fine with 5w30.
Oh and bite the bullet, use the good fuel....always! It pays off in the long run, especially if you have a d.i engine, not to mention turbo. Sounds like you already know/do this.
 
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VelosterN

Thread starter
Messages
17
Location
California
Yea, always 91 (highest we get here in Cali) without it the engine scales back the power and you get a lot less of those pops and bangs.
 
Messages
10,330
Location
Colorado Springs
Originally Posted by VelosterN
Thanks, for the info. if/when I track the car I'll fill it with some 5w40 but it's my daily driver so I dont beat on it too hard, I'm fine with 5w30.
For turbo application, ACEA A3/B3 B4 or C3 are best option. ILSAC GF-5 like Castrol Edge 5W30 are thin 5W30 oils. ACEA A3 or C3 oils are so called thick W30 oils. You can get Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 in Wal Mart. As for ACEA A3 oils, tehre are MUCH better options than Castrol Edge 5W40. It is mediocre oil at best. When you are looking Euro specific oil, make sure that oil always has MB 229.5 (which Edge 5W40 does not) or for C3 specific oils, MB 229.51. In Wal mart you can get Mobil1 0W40 FS or Castrol Edge 0W40. Both are better oils than Edge 5W40 and same price. Now, the question is, are you under warranty? In that case you want to stick with C2 oils. But, there are several Euro specific ACEA C3 oils that also meet C2 requirement due to sophistication of oil and MPG gain they provide. Mobil1 ESP 5W30 is one, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W30 is another. But, be ready to pay some $10 per quart. But you get C2 and HTHS above 3.5cp.
 
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VelosterN

Thread starter
Messages
17
Location
California
I am under warranty but as the manual states, I can use ILSAC GF-5 or API SN Plus OR ACEA C2. So the warranty is still safe with the 5w30 Castrol oil. Plus the manual states you can use as low as 0w30
 
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Messages
841
Location
Upper midwest
Originally Posted by walterjay
Good octane choice. I know my 1.6 turbo does not run well on 87. Runs fine on 89. And I do run Castrol 5-40 in mine.
Yea, I had a horrible LSPI event with 87 octane on mine, after that, minimum 89. I mostly run 91/93 octane. Hyundai says to use 87 octane....... on a 9:5 to 1 compression motor pushing a full 17 lbs boost at 1,450 rpm. Lets say crappy tune to limp the 1.6T into submission. You put a good ECU tune on it and it wakes the car up big time. It is sad I have to live with this God awful OEM tune to keep warranty, but warranty is important.
 
Messages
10,330
Location
Colorado Springs
Originally Posted by VelosterN
I am under warranty but as the manual states, I can use ILSAC GF-5 or API SN Plus OR ACEA C2. So the warranty is still safe with the 5w30 Castrol oil. Plus the manual states you can use as low as 0w30
Personally, if I had turbo engine, I would skip anything ILSAC GF-5. I would go with this: https://www.mobil.com/English-US/Passenger-Vehicle-Lube/pds/GLXXMobil-1-ESP-5W30 Take into consideration that ACEA doe not have approval process but manufacturers do testing and state whether oil meets requirements of ACEA.
 
Messages
640
Location
Colorado
The Castrol Edge you picked is very good and qualifies as "latest ILSAC" to satisfy the Hyundai Warranty Police should that ever be needed. Veloster N ! Very good sir. More fun per mile than most. Since it has a turbo and is direct injected, you really can use a dexos1 SN+ oil like Castrol Edge black jug, as each tests for turbocharger performance & LSPI. Especially the dexos1 GMTC which spins the Hades out of a turbocharger and checks for dreaded coking conditions. Any oil that passes that is good for your Veloster N. (The LSPI subject is too weird to try and tackle; just know SN+ & dexos1 test for that too.)
 

VelosterN

Thread starter
Messages
17
Location
California
You could get a JB4 unit, it's pretty easy to take off when you go for service. But I feel your pain, I dont want to void the warranty until I have had the car for a year or two. trying to avoid being a "beta tester" for the reliability of a modded version. There is a guy in Korea that is pushing 400whp with an upgraded turbo, rods, and a clutch. somehow the stock transmission is holding the power. So the future of tuning this car looks pretty good.
 

VelosterN

Thread starter
Messages
17
Location
California
It seems that there is a bit of a split opinion, some say it's fine to go ahead and some like edyvw advise against it.
 

VelosterN

Thread starter
Messages
17
Location
California
Well it's also rated as SN+ just like the M1. But I see the M1 has the ACEA C2/3 cert. what is the advantage of that rating? sorry if this is a dumb question just curious, as the manual doesn't seem to care if you use an ACEA C2 or an SN+ rated oil.
 
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