2019 EA888 stalling issues discussed on VWVortex

[Jack Watts]

The 1.4 is a US economy engine first. The GLI GTI ea888 is a more performance oriented engine first that has some economy. It was set out in the US with 502 oils. Govt cafe pushing for fuel economy. VW has to develop something aka code name 508 with Castrol to try to make it through warranty period and get the small gain in Fuel economy

That’s the reason. It’s not to allow you to track your GTI GLI reliably on the weekend

lol...

The 1.4 is the normal engine for Golfs and Jetta world-wide. It's been out since 2009.

Only in the US as the 1.8T "needed". Yes, you could buy them in other markets, but they weren't that common.

And the idea that the 508 oils will just "get the car through the warranty period" is laughable, as is the idea that this was invented "for CAFE". VW isn't creating new specs for 6% of its overall market....

 

[wemay]

Arco, I haven't a doubt that a good syn ILSAC xw30 would be fine too. Just not sure i would leave it in for 10k w/o a uoa.

 

[KCJeep]

I really question the 2.6 in most anything. The wife's Subaru 2.0 is still alive, but it's not a powerhouse by and means and it can still get very clattery and weak......

Every engine I have had first hand experience with (with one or two notable exceptions) that has been run on a steady diet of 20 grades has developed consumption issues over time after exhibiting none the first 60-75k or so.

 

[Jack Watts]

Every engine I have had first hand experience with (with one or two notable exceptions) that has been run on a steady diet of 20 grades has developed consumption issues over time after exhibiting none the first 60-75k or so.

My Ford Duratec 3.0 is going on over 200K with no noticeable consumption--0W20 its whole life. A Focus wagon before that was over 110K with with 5W20 and 0W20 for its entire life. It's certainly possible to build an engine that runs on 0W20 without consumption issues.

That said, I do wonder about it in a turbocharged engine. VW has a pretty unique cooling regime going on with its turbo engines, but time will tell.

Bigger picture though: how long do you really want an engine to last? I realize this is Bitog and everyone keeps their cars for 700K miles and all...but at a certain point I think it's worth looking, intelligently, at the efficiency/life cycle continuum. I've often heard folks say something to the effect of "I'm not trading any additional wear at all for fuel economy". That to me is silly. If the difference is an engine operation efficiently for 300K vs. 500K, then it's a trade worth making, IMO.

Particularly if it's a VW. By 300K, I can guarantee you the owner will have really grown tired of replacing window motors, door switches and various engine sensors by then....

 

[wemay]

Particularly if it's a VW. By 300K, I can guarantee you the owner will have really grown tired of replacing window motors, door switches and various engine sensors by then....

Lol, guilty as charged.

 

[350Rocket]

Lol, guilty as charged.

I disagreed with everything until he said that part....lol. From my experience with vw/Audi. We always told customers that asked about them only to buy them if they weren't keeping them past the warranty period.

 

[edyvw]

As long as I can find it in 5qt jugs as well as qt bottles, I may go with PP Euro L 5w30.

View attachment 26019

Relative performance tool works when comparing oils in the same category.
According to this, VW508.00/509.00 would work better than BMW LL04 in M3 CSL.

 

[wemay]

Relative performance tool works when comparing oils in the same category.
According to this, VW508.00/509.00 would work better than BMW LL04 in M3 CSL.

 

[KCJeep]

My Ford Duratec 3.0 is going on over 200K with no noticeable consumption--0W20 its whole life. A Focus wagon before that was over 110K with with 5W20 and 0W20 for its entire life. It's certainly possible to build an engine that runs on 0W20 without consumption issues.

That's interesting. One of the two vehicles I mentioned that did not exhibit that tendency was also a Focus, the other a Kia.

A host of others, innumerable Ford 4.6's, Hondas, Subarus, Ford 5.4's, all started drinking oil later on 20 grades.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Arco, I haven't a doubt that a good syn ILSAC xw30 would be fine too. Just not sure i would leave it in for 10k w/o a uoa.

Yes that splits, the HTHS difference, the new Dexos 5w30 are strong, I would say that choice would be a cheap and cheerfull 5K oil.

I get no engine mechanical knocking with the little bit of M1 FS 0w40 added. On FF and the Motul, that engine was done when the oil temp got over 210. It had loud mechanical metal to metal knocking. Therefore I declared the oil film INADEQUATE -at least in this one example of a motor. Having built many engines, you can get a bad fit on some part (i.e: piston-wall; rod journal or main journal) and that will make the engine susceptible to oil film breakdown and failure. And that is not accounting for crank harmonic vibration which will mess with static tolerances.
" If it ain't spinnin sweet, the parts aren't going to stay arranged neat"