2018 Harley Sport Glide, valvoline 20w50 syn, K&P oil filter
- Thread starter jkhawaii
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Weren't very many long rides it appears, but shorter ones instead? . I'm thinking the copper and tin are coming from dry starts during break in.
Most rides were in the 2-5 mile one way range. Eng has only 2500 miles on it. Low mileage because it wasn't ridden every day. I could see the copper when I cleaned the filter, it kinda just collected on the bottom of the housing. The K&P seems to do its job. It's also unlikely that the filter ever goes into bypass
Originally Posted by jkhawaii
Most rides were in the 2-5 mile one way range. Eng has only 2500 miles on it. Low mileage because it wasn't ridden every day. I could see the copper when I cleaned the filter, it kinda just collected on the bottom of the housing. The K&P seems to do its job. It's also unlikely that the filter ever goes into bypass
This is what I was referring to as far as the 'dry starts". It also verifys the UOA's moisture content. The 2500 miles is really not uncommon for many riders. But the 2-5 miles one way isn't letting the engine get hot. I will make the assumption your driving it to work, then it sits all day. You come back out 8 hours later and ride the short distance back. No?
Lots of times I will drain my oil and see 'particles' in it as well. I would take another couple of UOA's over the next few months, changing at your current interval (to get an accurate baseline), and see if the copper goes down.
Most rides were in the 2-5 mile one way range. Eng has only 2500 miles on it. Low mileage because it wasn't ridden every day. I could see the copper when I cleaned the filter, it kinda just collected on the bottom of the housing. The K&P seems to do its job. It's also unlikely that the filter ever goes into bypass
This is what I was referring to as far as the 'dry starts". It also verifys the UOA's moisture content. The 2500 miles is really not uncommon for many riders. But the 2-5 miles one way isn't letting the engine get hot. I will make the assumption your driving it to work, then it sits all day. You come back out 8 hours later and ride the short distance back. No?
Lots of times I will drain my oil and see 'particles' in it as well. I would take another couple of UOA's over the next few months, changing at your current interval (to get an accurate baseline), and see if the copper goes down.
Good report for a new engine, no concerns, yes, will be nice to see copper come down over the next 5000 miles, high copper always present in new HD engines.
No real comparisons here on the M8, thanks for posting.
Valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil in conventional or synthetic is in my opinion = the best.
I do not not agree at all with using a reuseable oil filter over the stock HD one though, not sure of the reason, stock HD filter is well built.
and ... do not agree at all with using K&N filters of any type but thats me. To me, KN = all marketing for less engine protection. Dont get me wrong, if you have a race engine and its going to be rebuilt every few races or years that is another story.
No real comparisons here on the M8, thanks for posting.
Valvoline 20/50 motorcycle oil in conventional or synthetic is in my opinion = the best.
I do not not agree at all with using a reuseable oil filter over the stock HD one though, not sure of the reason, stock HD filter is well built.
and ... do not agree at all with using K&N filters of any type but thats me. To me, KN = all marketing for less engine protection. Dont get me wrong, if you have a race engine and its going to be rebuilt every few races or years that is another story.
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by old Buell and Sportster all had high Copper for a while (by 24,000 miles the Buell came down)
I just got the urge to try out the reusable filter. Another reason why, I think, was on the really short rides I did once in a while I noticed that most of the filter was cold, I thought It might have been because the filter was in bypass when cold, figured the stainless filter would likely never go into by pass. this was my first sample with said filter. It seemed to do a good job filtering
I just got the urge to try out the reusable filter. Another reason why, I think, was on the really short rides I did once in a while I noticed that most of the filter was cold, I thought It might have been because the filter was in bypass when cold, figured the stainless filter would likely never go into by pass. this was my first sample with said filter. It seemed to do a good job filtering
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I do notice the Valvoline Syn is not as shear stable as say... M1, Amsoil, or Redline, But it doesn't seem to mater too much. My previous sportster I ran H-D 360 and the oil would be in the 14 cts range. seems to be compatible to H-D syn 3
Im not knocking your choice of filter or reason, I was just curious as we know there are 100's of thousands of HDs running standard filters without issues. I get kind of queezy when I hear of someone running a filter that is more exotic, more expensive and not tested on the 100s of thousands of bikes the standard one was.
One red flag I read from you is about bypass. You want bypass to take place with cold oil or your engine may get starved for oil and if this filter you speak of has no bypass, well, it almost sounds impossible to me unless its so porous that its ineffective.
I use standard filters but I do alot of higher speed runs ect. I also use goldplug and would suggest that as a better solution.
Goldplug is a SUPER strong magnetic oil pan plug, much stronger then the HD one, so it you are worried about too much bypass, well, I think the magnetic drain plug is a better option.
One red flag I read from you is about bypass. You want bypass to take place with cold oil or your engine may get starved for oil and if this filter you speak of has no bypass, well, it almost sounds impossible to me unless its so porous that its ineffective.
I use standard filters but I do alot of higher speed runs ect. I also use goldplug and would suggest that as a better solution.
Goldplug is a SUPER strong magnetic oil pan plug, much stronger then the HD one, so it you are worried about too much bypass, well, I think the magnetic drain plug is a better option.
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I had never heard of a K&P reusable oil filter until reading this thread. They seem to get good reviews and are probably fine filters but at $139 for my Superglide, I'll continue using the K&N oil filters and change them at every other oci as I have for years on my last two Harley's. The Valvoline synthetic 20w50 mc oil is a fine choice, but you need to ride more...
Harley requires a 5 micron rating on their filters for the 103 engine. I'm not sure about the new engines. They are pretty adamant about it. The 103 has different oil circulation than previous engines. My oil pressure runs between 25-30 no matter hot or cold, high rpms or low rpms. Since you are under warranty, I wouldn't tell the dealer that.
Looks like you are in Hawaii, and changed it after 1,500 miles in the middle of June when it had been in the bike for 1 year?
Modern oil in a modern fuel injected engine can go way longer than that even on shorter rides. The TBN is a testament to that, great viscosoity and the flashpoint shows no issues with fuel. Run that stuff longer, one year is changing too soon given that report and where you live, IMO.
Modern oil in a modern fuel injected engine can go way longer than that even on shorter rides. The TBN is a testament to that, great viscosoity and the flashpoint shows no issues with fuel. Run that stuff longer, one year is changing too soon given that report and where you live, IMO.
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