2017 CR-V Next Oil

Messages
41
Location
Arizona
Thread starter
I have the dreaded 2017 CR-V 1.5 turbo engine, but live in the Arizona heat so think I avoid the major issues. *knocks on wood* Also, read somewhere that it was recommended to run a 30 weight oil, use 91 octane, and change the engine air filter every 10k miles to fight the dilution.....so been doing that too. Anyway, I'm on the hunt for my next oil to buy. I like the boutique oils and been running Amsoil SS 0w-30. I know it's probably a waste of monies but call me crazy, it's what I like to do. These are what I'm looking at: Amsoil SS 5w-30 Schaeffer 9000 5w-30 High Performance Lubricants 5w-30 (Link) - this one is new to me, but saw they were a sponsor so figure I'd give it a look. Is this the website I would buy through? What do you think? The oil will also be used in my 2006 F150 but that engine I'm not worried about. Also side question not related to oil, has anyone got the software update for these engines? I've read about it but I never received anything from my dealership. Thank you, Vince
 
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Messages
1,419
Location
TX
I've ran Ams SS 5w30 and premium fuel for a few OCI. Have done UOAs with great results. Currently running some 5w30 magnatec at 2$/qt and regular gas and still getting 40mpg. Same same for less
 
Messages
16
Location
VA
Honestly, just check oil levels and smell it every so often. From what I understand, the biggest things are getting the engine warm pretty regularly to burn at least some of the gas off and more frequent OCI.
 
Messages
231
Location
Illinois valley
See if you can get Schaeffer at a local retail/distributor. I get a way better deal on a case locally than buying online. Amsoil always a good choice but which one/how much? I'm sure HPL a good choice but how do you get it? I would like to know more. I'm less than half a tank from there round trip.
 
Messages
99
Location
Ontario, Canada
I've always been happy with Amsoil products, and you can find them almost anywhere should you need to get some for top up. Wanted to try Schaeffer but they don't ship to Canada according to the website.
 
Messages
15,145
Location
N.H, U.S.A.
I would keep doing what you are doing. But run the amsoil ss to at least 7500 miles. The fuel dilution can be mitigated by a long hard NASCAR highway run. periodically - I would imagine. I did find the New Valvoline advanced 5W30 to run as good as any oil I have tried over the ages - with a great UOA on here to back it up - But I don't have Amsoil SS experience. - Ken
 
Messages
653
Location
Huntington WV
I have same engine in my 2016 Civic coupe. I run Castrol edge 5w30 in it. The only boutique oil its seen is a quart of Ravenol RUP 5w-40 in a frankenbrew oil change I did when fuel dilution moved the oil level an inch past full on the dipstick. The dilution on my civic has no rhyme or reason although winter short trips does seem to cause it more, as expected.
 
Messages
7,759
Location
Oklahoma
Here in Oklahoma, have not heard about any cases of dilution problems, self included. Good friend of mine is a mechanic at a Honda dealership in OKC and has yet to see one come in with that problem. He told me he does hear about that issue in the northern climates, especially in the winter.
 
Messages
21,876
Location
Dallas,Tx USA
Is this a 0W20 spec engine? It's looking like more and more people are running a W30 in W20 spec engines,me included. Makes me wonder if in fact a W30 oil is better at protecting an engine from wear than a W20.
 
Messages
70
Location
Texas
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Is this a 0W20 spec engine? It's looking like more and more people are running a W30 in W20 spec engines, me included. Makes me wonder if in fact a W30 oil is better at protecting an engine from wear than a W20.
IMO. 0W20 oils do not necessarily cause more engine wear and switching to a xW30 will not necessarily protect your engine better for a vehicle that is spec'd for 0W20. Now I'll probably get attacked by forum members and wanna be engineers about how xW30 oil is better and xW30 oil's HTHS, MOFT numbers, CAFE, engine spec'd differently in other countries, etc. While it does matters somewhat, again it doesn't mean 0W20 is a bad oil grade and it is not protecting your engine properly or that x30 will protect better. In some instances but not all, going to a higher grade may cause more wear. Especially with VVT. The oil won't form a consistent lubricating film, allowing metal-to-metal contact and wear. If an engine was designed specifically to use a lower-viscosity 0W-20, its lower viscosity allows it to flow faster and fill the tiny clearances between parts, leading to a durable, consistent lubricating film. Yes I know there are engines in the US that are overseas and is spec'd differently in other countries but who's to say the ECM is not programmed differently or they use a that different VCT (cam phaser) calibrated to that weight of oil? In the beginning W20 was primarily for CAFE regulations but it's been almost or over 20 years since then. To say it is strictly CAFE related nowadays is not entirely true. Most likely going to a x30W for an engine spec'd for a 0W20 oil will not harm anything but the argument that a x30 oil will protect better, I don't buy it. I have used 0W20 oil on my cars that are spec'd for 0W20 and conducted oil analysis with no issues. 0W20 is a robust and synthetic oil that will protect your engine. At the end of the day do you and do the research. You will see many on this forum that will tell you 0W20 is great oil and vehicles with 200,000+ miles on their car using 0W20.
 
Messages
13,343
Location
1/2 hr N.E. of Detroit
Four season dilution engines need to be oil-changed more often. The Honda 1.5 is one of BITOG's worst offenders. I'd change that oil every 4k and filter every 8k. Use the thickest grade allowed in your owners manual and buy a name-brand oil, instead of a house-brand name.
 
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13,962
Location
...
I have a friend who owns a ‘17 CRV with the turbo 1.5. She follows the oil monitor and has the oil changed at the dealer. Not one bit of problem with her vehicle. She must have 75000 miles on it by now.
 
Messages
21,876
Location
Dallas,Tx USA
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Is this a 0W20 spec engine? It's looking like more and more people are running a W30 in W20 spec engines, me included. Makes me wonder if in fact a W30 oil is better at protecting an engine from wear than a W20.
IMO. 0W20 oils do not necessarily cause more engine wear and switching to a xW30 will not necessarily protect your engine better for a vehicle that is spec'd for 0W20. Now I'll probably get attacked by forum members and wanna be engineers about how xW30 oil is better and xW30 oil's HTHS, MOFT numbers, CAFE, engine spec'd differently in other countries, etc. While it does matters somewhat, again it doesn't mean 0W20 is a bad oil grade and it is not protecting your engine properly or that x30 will protect better. In some instances but not all, going to a higher grade may cause more wear. Especially with VVT. The oil won't form a consistent lubricating film, allowing metal-to-metal contact and wear. If an engine was designed specifically to use a lower-viscosity 0W-20, its lower viscosity allows it to flow faster and fill the tiny clearances between parts, leading to a durable, consistent lubricating film. Yes I know there are engines in the US that are overseas and is spec'd differently in other countries but who's to say the ECM is not programmed differently or they use a that different VCT (cam phaser) calibrated to that weight of oil? In the beginning W20 was primarily for CAFE regulations but it's been almost or over 20 years since then. To say it is strictly CAFE related nowadays is not entirely true. Most likely going to a x30W for an engine spec'd for a 0W20 oil will not harm anything but the argument that a x30 oil will protect better, I don't buy it. I have used 0W20 oil on my cars that are spec'd for 0W20 and conducted oil analysis with no issues. 0W20 is a robust and synthetic oil that will protect your engine. At the end of the day do you and do the research. You will see many on this forum that will tell you 0W20 is great oil and vehicles with 200,000+ miles on their car using 0W20.
Good response,thank you! I did two back to back uoas (first one on 5W20 and the second on 10W30 and both came out almost identical. My engine does feel peppier on 0W20. I get the vtc startup noise with 0W20 and 5W20 but none whatsoever on 10W30.
 
Messages
41
Location
Arizona
Thread starter
I thought the consensus was that a 30W would reduce down to a 20W in these engines due to fuel dilution? Is that not the deal anymore?
 
Messages
70
Location
Texas
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Is this a 0W20 spec engine? It's looking like more and more people are running a W30 in W20 spec engines, me included. Makes me wonder if in fact a W30 oil is better at protecting an engine from wear than a W20.
IMO. 0W20 oils do not necessarily cause more engine wear and switching to a xW30 will not necessarily protect your engine better for a vehicle that is spec'd for 0W20. Now I'll probably get attacked by forum members and wanna be engineers about how xW30 oil is better and xW30 oil's HTHS, MOFT numbers, CAFE, engine spec'd differently in other countries, etc. While it does matters somewhat, again it doesn't mean 0W20 is a bad oil grade and it is not protecting your engine properly or that x30 will protect better. In some instances but not all, going to a higher grade may cause more wear. Especially with VVT. The oil won't form a consistent lubricating film, allowing metal-to-metal contact and wear. If an engine was designed specifically to use a lower-viscosity 0W-20, its lower viscosity allows it to flow faster and fill the tiny clearances between parts, leading to a durable, consistent lubricating film. Yes I know there are engines in the US that are overseas and is spec'd differently in other countries but who's to say the ECM is not programmed differently or they use a that different VCT (cam phaser) calibrated to that weight of oil? In the beginning W20 was primarily for CAFE regulations but it's been almost or over 20 years since then. To say it is strictly CAFE related nowadays is not entirely true. Most likely going to a x30W for an engine spec'd for a 0W20 oil will not harm anything but the argument that a x30 oil will protect better, I don't buy it. I have used 0W20 oil on my cars that are spec'd for 0W20 and conducted oil analysis with no issues. 0W20 is a robust and synthetic oil that will protect your engine. At the end of the day do you and do the research. You will see many on this forum that will tell you 0W20 is great oil and vehicles with 200,000+ miles on their car using 0W20.
Good response,thank you! I did two back to back uoas (first one on 5W20 and the second on 10W30 and both came out almost identical. My engine does feel peppier on 0W20. I get the vtc startup noise with 0W20 and 5W20 but none whatsoever on 10W30.
Thx! FYI. I have found oils that are high in Moly helps the VTC startup noise. Mainly Amsoil 0W20, TGMO 0W20. It seems a lot of Japanese automakers branded oil have high moly content too.
 
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Messages
21,876
Location
Dallas,Tx USA
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Is this a 0W20 spec engine? It's looking like more and more people are running a W30 in W20 spec engines, me included. Makes me wonder if in fact a W30 oil is better at protecting an engine from wear than a W20.
IMO. 0W20 oils do not necessarily cause more engine wear and switching to a xW30 will not necessarily protect your engine better for a vehicle that is spec'd for 0W20. Now I'll probably get attacked by forum members and wanna be engineers about how xW30 oil is better and xW30 oil's HTHS, MOFT numbers, CAFE, engine spec'd differently in other countries, etc. While it does matters somewhat, again it doesn't mean 0W20 is a bad oil grade and it is not protecting your engine properly or that x30 will protect better. In some instances but not all, going to a higher grade may cause more wear. Especially with VVT. The oil won't form a consistent lubricating film, allowing metal-to-metal contact and wear. If an engine was designed specifically to use a lower-viscosity 0W-20, its lower viscosity allows it to flow faster and fill the tiny clearances between parts, leading to a durable, consistent lubricating film. Yes I know there are engines in the US that are overseas and is spec'd differently in other countries but who's to say the ECM is not programmed differently or they use a that different VCT (cam phaser) calibrated to that weight of oil? In the beginning W20 was primarily for CAFE regulations but it's been almost or over 20 years since then. To say it is strictly CAFE related nowadays is not entirely true. Most likely going to a x30W for an engine spec'd for a 0W20 oil will not harm anything but the argument that a x30 oil will protect better, I don't buy it. I have used 0W20 oil on my cars that are spec'd for 0W20 and conducted oil analysis with no issues. 0W20 is a robust and synthetic oil that will protect your engine. At the end of the day do you and do the research. You will see many on this forum that will tell you 0W20 is great oil and vehicles with 200,000+ miles on their car using 0W20.
Good response,thank you! I did two back to back uoas (first one on 5W20 and the second on 10W30 and both came out almost identical. My engine does feel peppier on 0W20. I get the vtc startup noise with 0W20 and 5W20 but none whatsoever on 10W30.
Thx! FYI. I have found oils that are high in Moly helps the VTC startup noise. Mainly Amsoil 0W20, TGMO 0W20. It seems a lot of Japanese automakers branded oil have high moly content too.
I also remember the Honda oem 0W20 being a high moly oil way back when I'd seen an analysis of it here.
 
Messages
12,456
Location
Middlesex County CT
Originally Posted by Randy_R
See if you can get Schaeffer at a local retail/distributor. I get a way better deal on a case locally than buying online. Amsoil always a good choice but which one/how much? I'm sure HPL a good choice but how do you get it? I would like to know more. I'm less than half a tank from there round trip.
OT: contact BITOG member salesrep if you want schaeffer products. The price i paid for neutra could not be found online or locally. JMO
 
Messages
1,940
Location
.
Originally Posted by Eddddd
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Is this a 0W20 spec engine? It's looking like more and more people are running a W30 in W20 spec engines, me included. Makes me wonder if in fact a W30 oil is better at protecting an engine from wear than a W20.
IMO. 0W20 oils do not necessarily cause more engine wear and switching to a xW30 will not necessarily protect your engine better for a vehicle that is spec'd for 0W20. Now I'll probably get attacked by forum members and wanna be engineers about how xW30 oil is better and xW30 oil's HTHS, MOFT numbers, CAFE, engine spec'd differently in other countries, etc. While it does matters somewhat, again it doesn't mean 0W20 is a bad oil grade and it is not protecting your engine properly or that x30 will protect better. In some instances but not all, going to a higher grade may cause more wear. Especially with VVT. The oil won't form a consistent lubricating film, allowing metal-to-metal contact and wear. If an engine was designed specifically to use a lower-viscosity 0W-20, its lower viscosity allows it to flow faster and fill the tiny clearances between parts, leading to a durable, consistent lubricating film. Yes I know there are engines in the US that are overseas and is spec'd differently in other countries but who's to say the ECM is not programmed differently or they use a that different VCT (cam phaser) calibrated to that weight of oil? In the beginning W20 was primarily for CAFE regulations but it's been almost or over 20 years since then. To say it is strictly CAFE related nowadays is not entirely true. Most likely going to a x30W for an engine spec'd for a 0W20 oil will not harm anything but the argument that a x30 oil will protect better, I don't buy it. I have used 0W20 oil on my cars that are spec'd for 0W20 and conducted oil analysis with no issues. 0W20 is a robust and synthetic oil that will protect your engine. At the end of the day do you and do the research. You will see many on this forum that will tell you 0W20 is great oil and vehicles with 200,000+ miles on their car using 0W20.
The OP's issue is with fuel dilution and the Honda 1.5T is a serial offender. UOAs here regularly show a 0w-20 diluting from an 8.xx cSt @ 100C to 6.xx. It seems reasonable to assume the HTHS would also suffer degradation from the 2.6 minimum to something in the low 2s, too. Is this harmful to engine? Who knows, but it can't be a good thing. So while there's nothing inherently wrong with an 0w-20 and there are tons of high mileage examples out there, applying this logic to fuel diluters may not be appropriate. Now that my diluting Honda CRV is past warranty I've moved on to a light 5w-30: it'll become a 20-weight soon enough.
 
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