2015 Nissan Juke SL (AWD), Pennzoil Ultra Platinum Plus 0w-20, 4460 miles

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2015 NISSAN JUKE SL (AWD) 1.6L DIG-T (Direct Injection Gasoline Turbo) I'm the second owner of this Juke. Previous owner was a female in/from Billings, Montana who loved Shania Twain (she left the Greatest Hits CD in the CD player) and she bought it on 10/08/15. It was a 3 year lease, she didn't renew it and it went to auction and was bought by Eau Claire Nissan and arrived on 10/29/18 with 34,631 miles in Eau Claire, WI. Dealership used Mobil Super Synthetic 0w-20 with OEM filter. I purchased on 03/06/19 with 34,849 miles. First oil change was on 04/06/19 at 35,570 miles with PENNZOIL ULTRA PLATINUM 0w-20 with Fram Ultra oil filter. - Driving is 80 City / 20 Highway, all mostly done like a grandma in ECO Mode in FWD mode (used AWD mode about 1%). I let the vehicle idle for about 5 minutes before driving about twice a day. Average MPG is 27 in town and 38 highway. The beginning and end of month I go out for two 25-minute drive on the highway at 65 MPH at 4K RPM to help breakup/reduce carbon buildup. - I also used Marvel Mystery Oil only in the fuel tank at the 4oz per 10 Gallons recommendation, going through two 32oz bottles. - Only Premium Fuel 91 Octane (no Ethanol), 99% of the time. 60% of the way through this interval, I tried two full tanks of 93 with 10% Ethanol but after seeing my MPG go down by 4, I went back to 91 NO ETHANOL. Not sure if this has any effect on oil samples. Oil change done before winter comes on 10/05/19 at 39,309 miles and got a sample to send to Blackstone. Total mileage on oil sample = 4,460 miles on 182 days I think it looks pretty good, I don't like that fuel is 1.8 but BS says 2.0 is when problems seem to occur. Being Direct Injection, my idling and mostly city driving, I'm going to assume it's going to be around that 1.8 range. Overall, how do you guys think it looks? [Linked Image from i.imgrpost.com]
 

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I wouldn't use MMO but that is me as I don't see a need as well as stop idling if not needed. The fuel in oil is concerning but not by thinning but by lowering flashpoint. I would try different oils to see if one would hold up better in this area.
 
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As Blackstone suggested, try a 0W30. However, for winter use you may want to stay with 0W20 and then move to the 0W30 for the other seasons. Or a 5W30 full syn.
 
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The report looks pretty good despite the fuel. In a way it's telling you to drive that car more often on longer trips. Once a month is not enough. I would skip the MMO. Run Top Tier gasoline.
 
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Western Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by PimTac
The report looks pretty good despite the fuel. In a way it's telling you to drive that car more often on longer trips. Once a month is not enough. I would skip the MMO. Run Top Tier gasoline.
I only use Top Tier gasoline from Kwik Trip, 91 ethonal free. Summer 2020 I will run no MMO and see how the fuel looks. Maybe I will up it to three times for longer trips instead of two.
 
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Originally Posted by skip029
Originally Posted by PimTac
The report looks pretty good despite the fuel. In a way it's telling you to drive that car more often on longer trips. Once a month is not enough. I would skip the MMO. Run Top Tier gasoline.
I only use Top Tier gasoline from Kwik Trip, 91 ethonal free. Summer 2020 I will run no MMO and see how the fuel looks. Maybe I will up it to three times for longer trips instead of two.
I'm in a similar situation with our Mazda. I drive about 5000 miles a year and most of that is short trips. I purposely take the long way to grocery shopping each week which is about 30 miles round trip. Two or three times a year we do a 300 mile day trip. The rest is a few miles at a time.
 
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Colorado
Low wear. Not bad at all. Excess fuel in oil tends to blacken (Cajun style) the piston rings though. Since you are already using TopTier gasoline, then no need for MMO (or even my favorite Techron supplement) in the gas tank. Hitting it with a little ethanol once in a while might be good for dissolving fuel system varnish, since alcohol is a solvent, although I need a real chemistry expert to verify that or not. Chemistry concerning what dissolves what is a very complex subject, proven by what they have gone through at Valvoline (tough to read !): https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/e6/19/8e/24bb28eefcfd7e/US20170029734A1.pdf which another bitog poster (The Critic) provided the other day. I would switch to Mobil1 AFE 0w-30 (walmart 5 quart jug is inexpensive), a little thicker to make sure your viscosity stays above about 7.5, really better for an engine built for 0w20's kv100 of about 8. ... 0w30 would start at a kv100 about 10 when new, and the fuel dilution might make it drop to 8, which is considered a 0w20 anyway. Nice you got the Shania CD as a bonus, though bad for the previous owner. (If it's stuck in there, playing every time you hit a bump, its like the funny scenes in the tv show "Stumptown", very funny.) Hilarious how Blackstone commented using Shania song titles. Those people are bored. As popular as Shania is, she could probably buy Canada by now.
 
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15,168
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N.H, U.S.A.
Is that JATCO CVT? - put your attention there. Pan drain and fill if not done yet. Valvoline or Castrol work fine for less than 1/2 the cost of nissan fluid. I would sub one qt of the sump with of a ACEA AB4 30 grade to keep the HTHS boosted and KV100 > 8
 
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Western Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Is that JATCO CVT? - put your attention there. Pan drain and fill if not done yet. Valvoline or Castrol work fine for less than 1/2 the cost of nissan fluid. I would sub one qt of the sump with of a ACEA AB4 30 grade to keep the HTHS boosted and KV100 > 8
Thanks ARCO for the concerns on the CVT! I was worried as well, I did full fluid drain and refills with OEM on CVT/Transfer Case/Diff fluids when I got the oil changed to PUPP 0w-20. About 60% of the way through this oil sample, I got a transmission cooler and inline Magnatec Transmission filter added as well. Checking my temps during the summer and CVT is running well, never hit temps higher than 176 F even when it was 95F outside.
 
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Smart to get a transmission cooler. Seems heat is really the thing that destroys transmissions. Nissan should have been putting better cooling on. Their reputation has been trashed because of CVT issues over the years.
 
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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
I would sub one qt of the sump with of a ACEA AB4 30 grade to keep the HTHS boosted and KV100 > 8
I understand HTHS but what exactly is KV100 and why is above 8 important? And are there any 0w-20 that will do KV100 over 8 if PUPP doesn't?
 
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Originally Posted by skip029
I understand HTHS but what exactly is KV100 and why is above 8 important? And are there any 0w-20 that will do KV100 over 8 if PUPP doesn't?
kv100 is the kinematic (low shear rate) viscosity at the boiling point of water temperature, 100 celsius. Since gasoline thins out (aka, lowers viscosity, both HTHS & KV100 together) sump oil, it is good to put in a higher fresh viscosity oil like Mobil1 AFE 0w30 (HTHS 3.0, kv100 about 10), expecting a little fuel dilution to maybe thin it out over time. The engineers at Nissan say you need a 0w20, which is their way of saying you need a kv100 about 8 and HTHS about 2.6, minimum. Fresh Mobil1 AFE 0w30 has a little more which won't hurt Its kind of like paint thinner. Add paint thinner to paint, and it lowers the viscosity, just like adding gasoline to sump oil. Viscosity, both KV100 and HTHS should be greater than some specified minimum values to keep the metal parts separated sufficiently as they mover past each other. Dig into the Stribeck Curve somewhere in the google universe if you want more.
 
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Originally Posted by paoester
Originally Posted by skip029
I understand HTHS but what exactly is KV100 and why is above 8 important? And are there any 0w-20 that will do KV100 over 8 if PUPP doesn't?
kv100 is the kinematic (low shear rate) viscosity at the boiling point of water temperature, 100 celsius. Since gasoline thins out (aka, lowers viscosity, both HTHS & KV100 together) sump oil, it is good to put in a higher fresh viscosity oil like Mobil1 AFE 0w30 (HTHS 3.0, kv100 about 10), expecting a little fuel dilution to maybe thin it out over time. The engineers at Nissan say you need a 0w20, which is their way of saying you need a kv100 about 8 and HTHS about 2.6, minimum. Fresh Mobil1 AFE 0w30 has a little more which won't hurt Its kind of like paint thinner. Add paint thinner to paint, and it lowers the viscosity, just like adding gasoline to sump oil. Viscosity, both KV100 and HTHS should be greater than some specified minimum values to keep the metal parts separated sufficiently as they mover past each other. Dig into the Stribeck Curve somewhere in the google universe if you want more.
Thank you!
 
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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Is that JATCO CVT? - put your attention there. Pan drain and fill if not done yet. Valvoline or Castrol work fine for less than 1/2 the cost of nissan fluid. I would sub one qt of the sump with of a ACEA AB4 30 grade to keep the HTHS boosted and KV100 > 8
Couldn't he sub in a qt of Redline 0w30 and get close to that? Flows to - 76F with a 3.2 hths
 
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Originally Posted by ChiTDI
Wouldn't the fuel presence in the oil be directly related to the MMO? I would think.
I don't think so. Mostly from what I gathered from this forum is when you have fuel in the oil it's MOSTLY because of not driving long enough to burn it off or because the vehicle is Direct Injection. I believe that seems to be the case for me. I've always had good luck with MMO in the fuel tank, never tried in the oil, but this summer I think I'll try to keep all variables at a minimal and use PUPP 0w-20 again but with no MMO and compare. Winter 2020/summer 2021, I'll try the Mobil1 AFE or maybe Castrol and report back to everyone.
 
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Originally Posted by ChiTDI
Wouldn't the fuel presence in the oil be directly related to the MMO? I would think.
He did not put MMO in the oil. It went into the gasoline tank. If put in the oil, not done here, then MMO would have lowered the flashpoint, which is how Blackstone estimates fuel dilution. This case is about gasoline getting into the oil. Maybe a leaky fuel injector or rings not sealing, and certainly can happen some from short trip cool driving.
 
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Originally Posted by skip029
Originally Posted by ChiTDI
Wouldn't the fuel presence in the oil be directly related to the MMO? I would think.
I don't think so. Mostly from what I gathered from this forum is when you have fuel in the oil it's MOSTLY because of not driving long enough to burn it off or because the vehicle is Direct Injection. I believe that seems to be the case for me. I've always had good luck with MMO in the fuel tank, never tried in the oil, but this summer I think I'll try to keep all variables at a minimal and use PUPP 0w-20 again but with no MMO and compare. Winter 2020/summer 2021, I'll try the Mobil1 AFE or maybe Castrol and report back to everyone.
AFE isnt synthetic oil. I would go Valvoline Advanced 0W20 with one qt of teh sump being 5W30 Castrol Magnetec to help with your D.I. dilution. They work well together; its my "special sauce" with a stellar UOA to back it up.
 
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