2012 Chevy Sonic 1.8 - Cooling Systems Problems - Advice Sought Regarding Repairs

Hmm looking at the GM online store it lists two different part numbers but ones discontinued.

95935067 which is the discontinued one. It’s the outlet hose to heater.

96958209 which is available. It’s the inlet hose to heater

You could measure the size of the pipe you need and see if some straight but flexible pipe could be used. Just make sure it’s not going to rub on anything.
I just found both the GM Genuine heater hoses at Rock Auto. I missed the one the first time because I looked under Cooling System - Coolant Hose/Pipe, but just found both under Heat & Air Conditioning - Heater Hoses. Phew!

Heater Inlet - 96958206
Heater Outlet - 954920002

Screenshot 2023-04-16 at 15-16-32 2012 CHEVROLET SONIC 1.8L L4 Cooling System RockAuto.jpg
 
If those hoses are mussy and blown up changing will fix it for now but some type of oil is in the system from engine or trans somehow. Replace those small plastic rubber lines going to and from thermostat housing as they break with out touching them from age
 
If those hoses are mussy and blown up changing will fix it for now but some type of oil is in the system from engine or trans somehow. Replace those small plastic rubber lines going to and from thermostat housing as they break with out touching them from age
I feared that was the case, but both the upper and lower rad hoses looked absolutely fine.

We got the Sonic back on the road last week. I replaced the pressure cap, thermostat housing assembly, both rad hoses, both heater hoses, and the reservoir-to-rad hose.

Filled the cooling system with hose water and a rad flush chemical, ran it for c. 15 minutes, and did a couple of drain-and-fills before adding distilled water and coolant.

We plan to do at least two more drain-and-fills before winter.
 
A lot of people seem to think that adding stop leak to the coolant reservoir is a good idea. Since that is a minimum flow area, that doesn't work at all. Stop leak of any kind, needs to go into the block to be effective. The insertion point is generally the lower radiator hose, on the suction side of the water pump.

Yeah, if you have one of those systems where the traditional radiator cap is on the pressurized overflow tank, you should really drain the radiator, mix the stop leak with some of the drained fluid, then pour that in first, then chase that with the remaining coolant that didn't have stop leak added.
 
As for the links: just install a set of Moog K750630 and keep them greased. They will outlast the car.
I bought the last Moog K750630 from Rock Auto. It was available locally, but at a much higher price, so the owner opted to get just the one for now. I added a couple of oil filters from the same shipping location. The price difference on the filters alone pretty much covered the shipping.

We installed the new end link this afternoon. I know I'd applied lots of anti-seize last time, but it was still a battle getting the lower nut off, but it's done now. I was able to stay away from using the grinder, which is always hairy in close quarters. We went for a test drive, and the knocking over bumps is completely gone. My friend is delighted.

Thanks for the recommendation. I greased the links after we installed them, and told my friend he should grease them every time he does a seasonal tire change.
 
One more cooling system problem with my friend's Sonic. The car had been losing coolant for a few weeks, not much at first, and quite a bit (1 or 2 litres a day) recently. I looked at it for him a couple of days ago and noticed that the throttle-body coolant pipe was leaking badly at the thermostat housing. I didn't replace this plastic pipe when I did the other work a few months ago - it sealed well for several months, but obviously I should have replaced it at the time.

He bought a new one yesterday, and we installed it this morning. It's a poor design in my opinion - a fairly rigid plastic pipe with some preformed bends in it. It was a bit of a pain to fish under, through, and around various hoses and wire bundles, but did seem to fit well in the end. It may get installed early on in the factory. A run of rubber hose would be a lot easier to work with.

It has a plastic clip the snaps into place to retain the one end (which has an O-ring) in the thermostat housing. The other end attaches to a short rubber hose which is connected to the throttle body.

The old pipe was quite brittle, and the end with the O-ring was missing, and yet didn't seem to have snapped off in the new thermostat housing. It seems weird to me that it didn't leak worse that it did. I assume I would have noticed if it was missing when I replaced the old thermostat housing, Did it just dissolve?

Anyway, this did nothing to make me like plastic parts in cooling systems, subject to frequent huge temperature swings. The coolant could drop to -30 C here in the winter, and then hit close to 100 C after driving some. That's got to be hard on plastic.

I would guess that the purpose of this assembly is to bring the throttle body up to temperature during cold weather - probably helps fuel vaporization to have warm air entering the combustion chamber.

Here's a link to the part - my friend bought from a local dealer, though, in the interest of getting it done sooner.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9913560&cc=1501879&pt=48150&jsn=1303
 
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If those hoses are mussy and blown up changing will fix it for now but some type of oil is in the system from engine or trans somehow. Replace those small plastic rubber lines going to and from thermostat housing as they break with out touching them from age
You were right - I should have replaced at least the one thermostat-to-throttle-body line back in April. I'll ask my friend if he wants to do the other.
 
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