2006 Accord V6 5AT, seeking longevity and information.

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I have my dad's car for a while, a 2006 Accord V6 EX-L. He passed away unexpectedly early last month. I've been getting his car caught up on maintenance and doing a full paint/headlight correction. He really liked this car and drove it for over a decade. It makes me happy to brighten it up and work on it. I know that the V6 Accord transmissions don't have a great reputation but I've read that the 06+ are more durable? My dad was an easy driver who did mostly rural or highway but he didn't do his first trans fluid change until 80,000 miles (didn't listen to me) But he did 3 drain/fill/run sequences with Honda fluid (listened to me). Now at 140k I'm doing the same with Max Life. I know there is an external filter that Honda doesn't acknowledge as a maintenance item. I'm going to change that during the 3rd drain/fill. I was also wondering if a bottle of Lubegard is Honda friendly with this specific trans? What is the realistic life expectancy of this trans and what is the ideal change interval? My mom will eventually upgrade her CRV. (she will keep the CRV over this Accord, doesn't like driving sedans). I will keep the Accord myself even if it needs a transmission sooner rather than later. Sentimental value. It did get a full timing belt service and the car really is a runner. Trans behaves great. Honda left the gearing pretty aggressive for the power level, probably why the fuel economy is so bad for what it is. Zipping around, it makes my CTS-V feel lethargic.
 
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Answers here will depend on who you read and that could be with or without personal experience with the 3.0L V6. Can't tell you life expectancy. Can tell you what I've done on same generation model and engine, year newer since new. Now with just over 100k miles, since Z1 discontinued, just single d&fs using ML at ~25k mile service intervals. Shifts fine and no intention of changing those procedures. Though I've no experience with Lubegard to say one way or the other, personally I would not use it. That's your call. If shifting well, I'd think the 3x d&f procedure more than enough by itself. My .02
 
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Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
But he did 3 drain/fill/run sequences with Honda fluid (listened to me). Now at 140k I'm doing the same with Max Life.
Why on earth would you switch to a multi-make fluid now, when he was using the correct genuine Honda fluid with good results and which has the exact properties and additives the transmission needs?
 
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I believe the transmission issues were prevalent in the early 2000-2004. Someone else will chime in. I have the 2007 MDX that is heavier and coupled to 3.7V6 on similar transmission with 300HP and it has been working well now at 195k. It has only had 3-4 drain/fills to date.
 
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My $.02 I don't think you will have any problems with Maxlife or any other multi vehicle ATF that lists Honda compatibility. Lots of reports in the Honda forums of 200k+ miles on it. I personally switched my 2012 Odyssey to Pennzoil Platinum LV about 4 years ago after the DW1 degraded too fast with towing. Lubegard would work fine with Honda but is not necessary given that Accords are relatively light and not known to be hard on ATF (versus a heavier vehicle like the Odyssey). I therefore would not use it. Also, I find it interesting that a CTS-V would appear lethargic. The Accord must be ridiculously fast!
 
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By the time the 06's rolled out, they had the AT issue fixed. It was a lubrication problem that was fixed on the production line as opposed to the dealer fix with a oil spray line. There is an external filter, you can google it and DIY, but from what all I've read and seen, that filter isn't that bad if there were some drain/refills in the past. Mine has 165K on it, I didn't do the 3 time drain/redrain procedure. I would simply drain it all out every other oil change and get on with life. One thing, and this is well documented, always use Honda ATF. It is a little more costly, but I'd still rather be using that than anything else.
 
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Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
But he did 3 drain/fill/run sequences with Honda fluid (listened to me). Now at 140k I'm doing the same with Max Life.
Why on earth would you switch to a multi-make fluid now, when he was using the correct genuine Honda fluid with good results and which has the exact properties and additives the transmission needs?
Hear, hear. Most excellent point, I might add. approved
 
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Originally Posted by RyanY
My $.02....I don't think you will have any problems with Maxlife....
From topic vehicle experience and 01 Civic still in service, 150k+ anecdotal miles using MaxLife, not only would I say no problems, it works well ime. Seems the OP made his call. And keeping in mind topic vehicle spec'd that not so special oem fluid Z1, sheared quickly. Since TB service done, as mentioned if spark plugs not done, something to look at for sure. Here's my 100k mi plug service results posted here.. That said, if TB service done I'd imagine the OP has done or had that service done too.
 
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I wasn't worried about sticking with Honda fluid because this car did not even come with DW1. This trans is full of Z1. I also ran MaxLife in my old accord from 190,000-386,000 miles. It seems to like it, you could not kill that transmission. My dad bought 3 gallons of MaxLife for this car back in October, it's sitting here. I'll do some reading on DW1 and Z1 vs MaxLife
Originally Posted by Schmoe
Another thing I'd look into...has the timing belt and spark plugs been changed at the 105K mark?
Yes, done at 112, with a water pump etc.
Originally Posted by RyanY
My $.02 Also, I find it interesting that a CTS-V would appear lethargic. The Accord must be ridiculously fast!
The V is a beast but it's geared differently and weighs, I'm guessing, 900lbs more. Obviously it is a much faster car when the pedals are down but the accord is zippy.
 
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Originally Posted by Schmoe
By the time the 06's rolled out, they had the AT issue fixed. It was a lubrication problem that was fixed on the production line as opposed to the dealer fix with a oil spray line. There is an external filter, you can google it and DIY, but from what all I've read and seen, that filter isn't that bad if there were some drain/refills in the past. Mine has 165K on it, I didn't do the 3 time drain/redrain procedure. I would simply drain it all out every other oil change and get on with life. One thing, and this is well documented, always use Honda ATF. It is a little more costly, but I'd still rather be using that than anything else.
Ok, good to know that. Honda forums had mixed information.
 

NO2

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Sorry to hear about your Dad. I have an '07 Accord V6 EX-L, essentially the same vehicle. I do a 4 bottle drain/refill every 30K with Honda ATF, and the trans still works like it was new at 130K. Zero problems except routine maintenance , timing belt, water pump, did the brakes a few times etc. and replaced some worn suspension parts. I also did a partial flush of the PS fluid with a turkey baster in the reservoir with 4 pts of Honda PS fluid. I would use Honda PS and ATF, not third party except for oil, filter, and brake fluids. My BiL had an '03 Accord V6 , one of the bad trans units, that died at 150K. He replaced it with an '07 too and put in a Carplay head. Now everyone wants to drive it instead of their nearly new vehicles. Just update the head and speakers and you'll have a great ride! Honda factory infotainment systems are awful.
 
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Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
But he did 3 drain/fill/run sequences with Honda fluid (listened to me). Now at 140k I'm doing the same with Max Life.
Why on earth would you switch to a multi-make fluid now, when he was using the correct genuine Honda fluid with good results and which has the exact properties and additives the transmission needs?
Why don't you have a clue about ATF? Like I have said before accurately if you have this mindset you should buy the bulk FF from the OEM and don't use any aftermarket motor oil.
 
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Originally Posted by Gebo
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
But he did 3 drain/fill/run sequences with Honda fluid (listened to me). Now at 140k I'm doing the same with Max Life.
Why on earth would you switch to a multi-make fluid now, when he was using the correct genuine Honda fluid with good results and which has the exact properties and additives the transmission needs?
Hear, hear. Most excellent point, I might add. approved
No simply it is not an excellent point.
 
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Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
But he did 3 drain/fill/run sequences with Honda fluid (listened to me). Now at 140k I'm doing the same with Max Life.
Why on earth would you switch to a multi-make fluid now, when he was using the correct genuine Honda fluid with good results and which has the exact properties and additives the transmission needs?
Why don't you have a clue about ATF? Like I have said before accurately if you have this mindset you should buy the bulk FF from the OEM and don't use any aftermarket motor oil.
Not sure what bulk FF is but you apparently don't have a clue about ATF yourself. Unlike motor oil whose primary purpose is to lubricate, ATF also has to work in hydraulic circuits and friction materials to achieve proper shifting. Each car maker builds their components to function with a specific fluid. A multi-make fluid may provide acceptable performance if shift quality or durability isn't the primary concern. If you're driving beaters and if you want to save $20 on a fluid change for something that costs $2000 to replace, go for it.
 
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Originally Posted by Gasbuggy
I have my dad's car for a while, a 2006 Accord V6 EX-L. He passed away unexpectedly early last month. I've been getting his car caught up on maintenance and doing a full paint/headlight correction. He really liked this car and drove it for over a decade. It makes me happy to brighten it up and work on it. I know that the V6 Accord transmissions don't have a great reputation but I've read that the 06+ are more durable? My dad was an easy driver who did mostly rural or highway but he didn't do his first trans fluid change until 80,000 miles (didn't listen to me) But he did 3 drain/fill/run sequences with Honda fluid (listened to me). Now at 140k I'm doing the same with Max Life. I know there is an external filter that Honda doesn't acknowledge as a maintenance item. I'm going to change that during the 3rd drain/fill. I was also wondering if a bottle of Lubegard is Honda friendly with this specific trans? What is the realistic life expectancy of this trans and what is the ideal change interval? My mom will eventually upgrade her CRV. (she will keep the CRV over this Accord, doesn't like driving sedans). I will keep the Accord myself even if it needs a transmission sooner rather than later. Sentimental value. It did get a full timing belt service and the car really is a runner. Trans behaves great. Honda left the gearing pretty aggressive for the power level, probably why the fuel economy is so bad for what it is. Zipping around, it makes my CTS-V feel lethargic.
Very sorry about your dad, that stinks. My Dad also passed unexpectedly last month as well and it hurts for sure. The material things they leave behind are no longer materialistic, so I hear you on keeping it. I wouldn't hesitate to use ML in that trans at all. On the Lubegard, either way the trans will run well. I use it in every trans I own, so I'm a bit partial.
 
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Sorry to hear about your Dad. I had an 05 Pilot. By 06 all the bugs had been worked out, but the 3/4 and 4/5 shift sensors can have a limited lifetime. If you get shift flares replace these proactively. Besides Timing Belt and plugs, consider having the valves adjusted. I bet the exhausts have recession and are tight. I won't get into ML vs DW-1, but I will share some facts. Your transmission is severely undermaintained. The problem with old ATF in these Honda V6 transmissions is not shearing but particulate loading. 3 drains and fills is not enough. If you read the factory service manual very, very carefully, you'll see the procedure calls for 4 in a row. It is a fact you still do not have clean ATF.
 
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In this transmission DEXRON III was a recommended fluid from Honda. Thats is great research and testing by Honda. The marketing regurgitation sounds great until you actually understand how a transmission works. It is assumed after reading this forum for nearly a decade a person would learn something.
 
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It should still be the BAYA/MAYA transmission which is a weaker design than the later 4 shaft transmissions. It wasn't only the gear cooling issue they have, but a pump flow issue that shows up in higher mileage units (Information courtesy of clinebarger). So you want to keep the fluid as fresh as possible and the filter clean to keep flows and pressures up. The filter is also internal to the transmission. It is still replaceable but it takes a little bit of time and you'll need to pull off the intake hose and a few other things in the area. A common service item is also the pressure switches, there are 2 of them and you want to use Honda OEM parts for this. Don't skimp, aftermarket ones just don't last, I know this from first hand experience from a few months ago when the 'SINS' brand ones I was using in my TL Failed and threw me into limp home mode. New OEM switches cured it all. https://www.hondapartsonline.net/v-...utomatic--at-oil-level-gauge-atf-pipe-v6 (Exploded diagram of your filter and switches) Parts list and notes from the last time I did the full maintenance to my 2003 (Also the BAYA transmission): 28610-RAY-003 (1) - Sensor 28600-RAY-003 (1) - Sensor 90471-PW7-A00 (2) - Gasket for Sensor 25450-RAY-003 (1) - Trans Filter Element 91302-RAY-003 (1) - Trans Filter Element Gasket 91301-RAY-004 (1) - Trans Filter Housing Oring 94109-12000 (1) - Trans Filter Tube Washer (Ordered 1, but should replace both. In reality, I could have reused all of the metal washers) Fluid, take your pick, there are plenty that work. Maxlife is fine, as well as some of the DW1 'replacements' (Idemitsu H+/AISIN ATFDW1), Real Honda DW1, nothing wrong with that. Most important is keep the fluid clean. Every 20k is not out of the question. Its easier to do than an oil change, so why not. Ditto on the valve adjust. At 140k you're probably not in any danger, but it will be a good idea to do it and not worry about it. Again, OEM honda for your valve cover gaskets, tube seals, and grommets. The OEM parts are just plain better in this respect, and I've tried a fair few different ones. They're not a whole lot more expensive and they don't leak. Timing belt is due if its not been done. AISIN TKH-002 kit, that's the one to get unless you want to spend money on OEM. Take a good hard look at your compliance bushings in the front lower control arms, they're probably shot. Not a horrible job and can be done on the car with the proper tools. Again, use OEM parts, although I have had good luck with the MOOG ones I put on my 03(Entire replacement control arm), I had a terrible experience with the Mevotech ones I put on my TL. That's all I can think of off the top of my head. That takes care of most of the things that will keep you going for a long time.
 
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