2004 CRV AC Compressor Choices

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The AC compressor on my 2004 CRV finally seems to have kick the bucket. I apply voltage directly at the wire just in-front of the thermal switch and nothing. So either the fuse or clutch is bad so going to just buy a replacement unite.

Rack Auto has 2 choices. 1 Nissens, 2 Four Seasons w/ 2 versions 158881 and 58881. The price is very similar around 200 dollars.

Which will you pick or what else would you consider.

Thanks for the help.
 
Have you thought about buying a new clutch/magnetic? Cheaper than a new unit and doesn't require the refrigerant to be drained/filled.
 

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Have you thought about buying a new clutch/magnetic? Cheaper than a new unit and doesn't require the refrigerant to be drained/filled.
I thought about that but in order to replace clutch, you still need to removed it from the car. It is on a real bad spot or location.

If I had a lift, you might be able to do it br dropping part of the sub-frame.
 
On the civic you have to unbolt the compressor and turn it a little bit to access the pulley. Maybe the crv is harder, not sure?
 
My daughter has a 2007 CRV and the AC quit working on hers. Put a new compressor on it from Rock Auto and it didn't last more than a few months. Turns out that the original one was fine but had to have a shim removed from the clutch and the ground wire for the clutch was corroded. That was at least 4 years ago. Still doing fine on that original one.
 
About 15K miles ago, had a Nissens compressor, Koyorad condenser, and Four Seasons inlet/outlet hoses installed in my 2004 CRV. All parts were made in China, but I hope the QC is up to standards of their parent companies. Work done by an independent Honda shop that let me provide my own parts for a labor only job with no warranty. If they provided the parts + warranty, they were only willing to use a very expensive Honda OEM compressor.

The Nissens is still a scroll design. It's also noisier than the previous aftermarket 10 year old one that only worked at highway speeds. Thankfully, the AC system is ice cold this summer.
 
If might just take a stab at checking the coil and thermal fuse, the location is not ideal but like all things a gamble.

Going to do this at a local junk yard and get some experience w/ doing this work.
 
Last winter I watched a YouTube video about how to access the internals of the clutch for a Honda AC compressor on a Civic buy working through the wheel well. There is an area where you can adjust the spacing for that clutch inside the clutch. And it's normal for them to require this when they get up in the miles.

The whole job really didn't take that long, it only required removing the faceplate from the clutch and working with the internals of it , not removing the clutch from the shaft for the compressor , and accessing it through the wheel well was really not that hard of a thing to do. So you might want to search for the YouTube videos about how to do that because the Civic and the CRV are supposed to be very similar.
 
Basically, the mechanic that did the clutch on the Civic by working through the wheel well was saying something like okay now it's good for another hundred thousand miles.
 
I put a $38 Ebay clutch on my 200,000 mile Honda Sandan compressor. A/C is ice cold. I would rather have an OEM 200,000 mile compressor than a new $200 Chinese model that you have to keep your fingers crossed will last a year or two.
 
I put a $38 Ebay clutch on my 200,000 mile Honda Sandan compressor. A/C is ice cold. I would rather have an OEM 200,000 mile compressor than a new $200 Chinese model that you have to keep your fingers crossed will last a year or two.
I look at Ebay last night no more 38 special but between 100-150.
 
I look at Ebay last night no more 38 special but between 100-150.



 
If the factory piece doesn't have an innate design problem model wide- do what you can to stay oem- even a used one- it's all downhill from there. I'd work on the clutch.
 
2nd Gen CRV's only real trouble spot were thier grenading air conditioner compressors. They are infamous.
 
I just finish installing the new UAC compressor and it is working fine so far. The clutch was indeed the only problem w/ the original compressor which I am going to keep and replace the clutch.

I had to pull the front bumper, cooling fans and radiator just to replace the darn thing. The biggest problem where the rsusty and broken bolts that happen during the removal. The clamps for the colling hoses and oil cooler lines seem ready to let go. I spent some time at junk yard looking for better clamps and replace the hoses.
 
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