2002 Silverado 5.3 Tranny

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Own a 2002 Silverado LT 5.3 (187,000 miles) and recently experienced a shifting issue with the transmission. When traveling from a stop just before 20mph a shift delay is experienced. It's been really hot in California(100 degrees +) and today decided to take it to a couple of transmission shops. The first shop said that it was a problem with 2 and 3rd and 4th gear and could also be that the valves are sticking. They also indicated that its not common for a chevy transmission to last more than 130k and that mine went for a good run. They quoted 2,900.00 with parts and labor for a rebuild. The second shop indicated that the truck was shifting from 1st to 3rd and also noted that anything over 130k was pretty good and that it was time for a rebuild. The second shop stated that they would have to tear down the transmission to see whats really going on and said that because of the whine(noise) most likely something was broken. Second shop also said that they would charge me 585.00 for the tear down to properly diagnose and stated that if it only needed a repair they would apply the 585 towards the repair. Second shop continued to say that if it needed a rebuild they would also apply the 585.00. Second shop also said that if I decided to not to do any work on the transmission there then I would only owe 585 for the tear down. He quoted me 1,900.00 and would use heavy duty parts(upgrades) that would maybe get 150k to 200k on the rebuilt transmission. I am mechanically inclined but know nothing about transmissions except changing the transmission filter and changing the fluid. Any advice on what kinds of questions I should be asking. The first shop told me that it would take about a week for the rebuild. The second shop said it would take them 2 days for the rebuild and a day for any simple repair...oh yeah the "hot Transmission Light" came on about a month ago while driving to Palmdale CA. It was very hot that week. I pulled over and waited for the light to go away. After 10 minutes the light went away and I continued to drive. When I got home I checked the level and it was right on the money. I drained a few ounces and inspected for metal shavings and nothing. Looking back I should have replaced the transmission oil after the light incident...

Please advise. Did I really get some good mileage on my transmission(187K)? I'm the original owner.
 
Is the check engine light on? Normally you will have a code for internal transmission fault or slippage. Is overdrive still working? Normally if 2nd goes out overdrive does too.
 
No check engine light...I think that the additives in the oil were fried and then I continued to drive without any protection...I don't know...sometimes i think its something really simple...but i'm not a transmission pro. i do think that the transmission is too young to die out on me.
 
like I said, i should have changed the fluid immediately after i got the transmission over heat light
 
Originally Posted By: Gito
No check engine light...I think that the additives in the oil were fried and then I continued to drive without any protection...I don't know...sometimes i think its something really simple...but i'm not a transmission pro. i do think that the transmission is too young to die out on me.



187k is not bad for a 4l60e. Most of the time they do not need a tear down to diagnose. If it is not slipping it could be a shift solenoid or valve body issue, they are fairly common. It is also common to burn out the band and wear out the drum, but if that was the case you would have slippage. It could also have a internal seal leaking. If it is making noise you may have gear or bushing issues. $1900 is probably a fair price if you need a rebuild, I am guessing about 14 hours labor plus parts. In reality it is about a 4 to 5 hour job.
 
First 4L60E in my truck went ~200k without being touched for maintenance, then promptly died in under a week, losing lock-up, then 4th, then 3rd, then 2nd.
 
What kind or repair are you looking for? Do you want to only get less than a year out of it, like maybe only 6 months, and plan to get a different vehicle before then, or do you plan to keep on using that vehicle for several more years.

With that many miles on it, if I wanted the vehicle to still be usable a year or more from now, I would not put money into fixing only one or two things even if a tear down showed that you could get by with some low cost fixes.

Also, does the rest of the vehicle still have enough life left in it so that if you did a whole transmission rebuild the rest of the vehicle would still be good to go a year or two from now.

It may be that it is not worth putting money into it, if the rest of the vehicle does not have enough life left in it.

If you want it to still be reliable more than a year from now then with that many miles go with the total rebuild, and as far as how to chose a shop for that look for the one with only a couple of days turn around time, and ask some of the customers how they feel about that shop.

BTW, in the future if you want to get longer life from a transmission, along with oil and filter change, you should put on an add on transmission cooler for extra cooling, especially if you tow, and or drive in hot climate. There are two kind of transmission add on coolers. The low cost ones simply are a heat exchanger similar in size to a heater core, but with fluid tubes sized for the transmission fluid, including connections. The better more expensive ones have a thermostat that bypasses the cooler when the fluid is too cold. This is better because it prevents the fluid from being too cold on cool days.

Coolers should be installed a specific way with respect to the flow of transmission fluid and the existing transmission cooler that is in the radiator.
 
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BTW anything over 120K miles is doing good for a transmission life, especially if you did not change the fluid and filter and did not have an add on transmission cooler.
 
I think I will go for the complete rebuild and I will request synthetic ATF unless otherwise directed or advised. I know that synthetic will do better in hot climate. I do plan to keep my truck. It has a solid engine, straight, dent and rust free body. The truck still looks brand new and no motor oil leaks whatsoever........I want to get at least another 200k. I think the next thing I really have to pay attention to is the differential. I still feel that 187k transmission failure is premature and could possibly be heat related. As for the transmission cooler, I'm in southern California and I'm wondering who installs such coolers and who is qualified. What do I watch out for? any recommended shops? I do drive in very hot climate most of the summer...
 
By the way, the last transmission oil/filter change was at 85k and it was changed by yours truly. Since then I have been busy with my 91 Honda Civic 1.6(449,981 miles and the original owner). I also own and service my 1979 300sd (185k)2nd owner and 1970 280SEL (approx 54,000 miles and second owner). I just need to get rid of some cars so that I have more time to properly service my truck and civic. i should have replaced the transmission oil 1 year ago and I truly believe I would not be sitting here writing. I like the cooler idea. please advise
 
Any good transmission shop will install a transmission cooler if you ask them.

Ask if it has the thermostat that bypasses the cooler when the fluid is too cold. They ain't cheap, expect them to be over $100.

You could also ask if they install it by metal straps, or the quick and not the best way of just using wire ties through the existing fins on the air-conditioner condenser, or radiator if you do not have air-conditioning. The metal strap way is really the best way to hang one, but I have seen them with just wire ties last many years.
 
Fluid and filter every 30K or 2 years which ever comes first would be the best for long life for a transmission.

There are a couple of ways to do the transmission fluid, besides doing the filter, are you getting the fluid out of the torque-converter and the little bit inside the lines and radiator cooler?
 
Well I remember in the good old days you could drill thru the torque converter, drain, then plug. My understanding is that this is no longer possible with my transmission being that such torque converter is not accessible. I remember reading a procedure where lines are disconnected between transmission and radiator cooler, using a bucket with line in, truck is started for about 20 seconds and then shut off etc etc. Would like to learn this procedure but would not want to attempt without a detail video showing step by step. My other logical way of flushing or draining would be to continuously refresh the oil very 15k without letting such oil get too old. In other words, drain all and then fill and then repeating often. Wastes lots of money and oil but you are refreshing...Better than nothing or better than waiting for the 30 or 40k...please advise
 
Now currently live in Northridge CA but work in Thousand Oaks...
 
We used to pay 1750.00 for a 4L60E rebuild with hardened parts and upgrades. The price of 1900 is probably reasonable.

We get a 2 year unlimited usage warranty. Make sure you do too.

I'd shop around for the busiest place. My trans guy here has a 2 week back log, and has cars by the dozens outside all the time as he does a lot of dealer work.
 
I got a 4L60E with the same mileage in my bought from new GMC Sierra. It's towed a 3,000Lb Boat A LOT during it's life. Backing it up slowly A LOT up a steep inclined driveway too.
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It had 2 flush & fills, one with Mobil 1 at 64k & then Amsoil ATF at 130k.

Now, at 185k, the 4L60E still runs & shifts fantastic, just like new -- even with all that abuse!
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So, yes, go with the rebuilt w/upgrades and it should last another 200k for you.

Good luck, it's a great transmission!
 
I will check out Leons Tran and do some research on others, THANKS TO ALL OF YOU for the input...
 
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