So I was a religious MMO user for 20years. I continued to buy it as the price rose over the years, then around 2006 the price exceeded $2 per qt & I started looking for alternatives. Not finding anything more cost effective, I reluctantly kept buying MMO even when it was $2.50 per qt (still avail by the gallon for $10 in 2008). When it became impossible to find it for less than $3 per qt, I threw in the towel.
I know many of you will say (correctly) that $3 per qt breaks down to a "reasonable" per tank treatment. In my case, 61 cents for 6.5oz into a 16g fill up (16.6g tank refilled w/1/2g remaining). But as the price keeps climbing, where do you draw the line?
Now, 2-stroke (aka 2-cycle, two stroke, two cycle for those doing a blind search) oil is an ideal UCL, as that's what it's designed for. But what ratio is appropriate in a 4-stroke engine? I've searched this topic & found surprisingly little here. Perhaps three posts yielded any insight on this. I think .3oz oil per gallon of gas was the consensus. That's a ratio of 427:1 - a far cry from the 50:1 most 2-cycle engines require.
2-cycle oil is thicker than MMO by a good margin, so 3oz per 10g would seem sufficient to offer the same UCL/fuel pump protecting qualities afforded by 25% more MMO. The cost of 2-cycle oil is pretty much identical to MMO by the qt & a lot less by the gallon. I'm pretty sure you can buy it in 5g pails too...that's sure to be MUCH cheaper. Let's say it's 25% cheaper...& you're using 25% less of it - It's pretty obvious that over time, the cost savings could be significant.
I just added 5.5oz of the stuff to my last (previously untreated w/anything) 16.6g tank to get started...a bit more than .3oz per gallon. I'm sure a lot of you use more MMO than the recommended .4oz per gallon. I wonder what the threshold would be before deposits & plug fouling would become a problem?
Lastly, what affect would xxx quantity of either UCL have on pre-ignition in high compression engines & detonation in turbo charged engines?
Thoughts on any of this?????
Btw - I've got a quantity (grocery bag full) of old 2-cycle oil in 8oz cans found in my Dad's garage. The tins are plenty rusty, but otherwise sound & leak free. I'm guessing it's from the late 70's - would you use it as is, or blend it w/some more modern stuff...of which I have an eclectic assortment.
I know many of you will say (correctly) that $3 per qt breaks down to a "reasonable" per tank treatment. In my case, 61 cents for 6.5oz into a 16g fill up (16.6g tank refilled w/1/2g remaining). But as the price keeps climbing, where do you draw the line?
Now, 2-stroke (aka 2-cycle, two stroke, two cycle for those doing a blind search) oil is an ideal UCL, as that's what it's designed for. But what ratio is appropriate in a 4-stroke engine? I've searched this topic & found surprisingly little here. Perhaps three posts yielded any insight on this. I think .3oz oil per gallon of gas was the consensus. That's a ratio of 427:1 - a far cry from the 50:1 most 2-cycle engines require.
2-cycle oil is thicker than MMO by a good margin, so 3oz per 10g would seem sufficient to offer the same UCL/fuel pump protecting qualities afforded by 25% more MMO. The cost of 2-cycle oil is pretty much identical to MMO by the qt & a lot less by the gallon. I'm pretty sure you can buy it in 5g pails too...that's sure to be MUCH cheaper. Let's say it's 25% cheaper...& you're using 25% less of it - It's pretty obvious that over time, the cost savings could be significant.
I just added 5.5oz of the stuff to my last (previously untreated w/anything) 16.6g tank to get started...a bit more than .3oz per gallon. I'm sure a lot of you use more MMO than the recommended .4oz per gallon. I wonder what the threshold would be before deposits & plug fouling would become a problem?
Lastly, what affect would xxx quantity of either UCL have on pre-ignition in high compression engines & detonation in turbo charged engines?
Thoughts on any of this?????
Btw - I've got a quantity (grocery bag full) of old 2-cycle oil in 8oz cans found in my Dad's garage. The tins are plenty rusty, but otherwise sound & leak free. I'm guessing it's from the late 70's - would you use it as is, or blend it w/some more modern stuff...of which I have an eclectic assortment.
