10w30 was definitely the move

Messages
333
Location
Ohio
Thread starter
Just changed the oil in my CR-V and used the barn-find jug of Castrol 10w-30 I posted about a month or so back and my engine does not tick nearly as bad as it did and it just feels smoother overall. Going to do a UOA at the end of this OCI and see what it says. Just thought I'd share!
 
Messages
333
Location
Ohio
Thread starter
Harvest King 5W-20, STP blue bottle, Prime Guard POF4610 filter. Although during that OCI I probably burned off at least 3 quarts and when I top off my oil I just use whatever the [censored] I have laying around. So I couldn't really say exactly what I was running before lol
 
Messages
547
Location
Houston, Texas
I'll repeat one of my first post here; 0-W and 5-W oils are used by manufacturers to reduce oil system friction losses and reciprocating windage drag in order to achieve CAFE standards. P E R I O D The engines are designed to last the warranty period with these oils and no further.
 
Last edited:
Messages
293
Location
MN
And if they don't say the customer must use those viscosities in their O&M Manual, EPA can void their certification for meeting CAFE regulations. The other thing of course is the VVT and MDS systems on these new engines using engine oil as a hydraulic actuating fluid. For these systems to work reliably in wide temperature ranges, the oil has to have enough flow rate to enable actuation. It must also not plug servo valve orifices, which is why they've gone to higher quality base stocks and antioxidant additives. Making money via "Dexos" and other certs is a bonus.
 
Messages
5,761
Location
New England
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
I'll repeat one of my first post here; 0-W and 5-W oils are used by manufacturers to reduce oil system friction losses and reciprocating windage drag in order to achieve CAFE standards. P E R I O D The engines are designed to last the warranty period with these oils and no further.
Posts the guy who lives in Houston, where it has likely never been below 0F. I'm feeling kind of dumb for buying 10W30 for my "summer" change as I have not been driving much since I put 5W30 in sometime in March and I will probably not want to change my oil until at least fall...I could probably just get by with 10W30 around my house (especially with a garage) over the winter, but I would not take a chance on ski weekends in the Whites with that oil in my sump as I cannot plug in at my condo. This is assuming the ski resorts actually open up later this year...man, I hope they do.
 
Messages
14,389
Location
...
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
I'll repeat one of my first post here; 0-W and 5-W oils are used by manufacturers to reduce oil system friction losses and reciprocating windage drag in order to achieve CAFE standards. P E R I O D The engines are designed to last the warranty period with these oils and no further.
And the W stands for what?
 

4WD

Messages
13,502
Location
Texas
Personally I'm happy with a nationwide 0w20 spec on two of mine. It's driving the use of better base stock … and keeping the results data set more accurate. Any thoughts to come up a grade will happen after warranty anyway.
 
Messages
12,650
Location
Kendall, FL
Originally Posted by LubricatusObsess
And if they don't say the customer must use those viscosities in their O&M Manual, EPA can void their certification for meeting CAFE regulations.
Do you have link to this information?
 
Messages
4,373
Location
Parts Unknown
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
I'll repeat one of my first post here; 0-W and 5-W oils are used by manufacturers to reduce oil system friction losses and reciprocating windage drag in order to achieve CAFE standards. P E R I O D The engines are designed to last the warranty period with these oils and no further.
and they self distruct after the warranty period? Tell that to the many who have gone several hundred thousand past the warranty period with 5W-20. Your comment is pure hogwash.
 
Messages
22,080
Location
Dallas,Tx USA
I use PPHM 10W30 in mine. Same engine as your CR-V. Had a flawless uoa. Zero wear metals. Excellent gas mileage. I too think the 10W30 runs smoother. The TSX with the same engine speeds 5W30.
 
Messages
14,389
Location
...
Originally Posted by Lubener
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
I'll repeat one of my first post here; 0-W and 5-W oils are used by manufacturers to reduce oil system friction losses and reciprocating windage drag in order to achieve CAFE standards. P E R I O D The engines are designed to last the warranty period with these oils and no further.
and they self distruct after the warranty period? Tell that to the many who have gone several hundred thousand past the warranty period with 5W-20. Your comment is pure hogwash.
Dittos. The hogwash is obvious.
 
Messages
1,776
Location
Kingston
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
At 215k miles enough wear has taken place to move up or you're running a 0W in practice with a 5W.u Refer to OP's testament.
I'm not sure why you're so focused on the cold weight. If what you're saying was true all the 0w30s I've used over the past 10+ years in my 76 and 83 gm V8s should have worn them out by now. Yet they keep running fine even when they were driven hard regularly up until I matured a bit. I have no problem with 10w30s for the summer, they can be a great oil because they don't need any many vii, but some of the best oils available are 0w30/0w40, and they meet the most stringent specs. My Olds V8 actually gets noisier if I bump up to a xw40 or thicker. Anything 30 weight keeps it silent whether it's 0w30, 5w30 or 10w30.
 
Messages
547
Location
Houston, Texas
If your Olds is a Rocket from 1978 and earlier it has .040 clearance on the rear main to provide lubrication to the rope seal. 15W40 was used for the five years I had her, not a bit of smoke or other issues.

1978 olds delta 88.jpg
 
Messages
1,776
Location
Kingston
Originally Posted by IMSA_Racing_Fan
If your Olds is a Rocket from 1978 and earlier it has .040 clearance on the rear main to provide lubrication to the rope seal. 15W40 was used for the five years I had her, not a bit of smoke or other issues.
Mine is 2 years older than that one. Nice car by the way. Any 77-90 b body can basically run forever and are so easy to fix. We checked clearances the cheap way with plastigauge before installing it in the car and it was within factory spec. I don't remember spec so I'll take your word on that. We also replaced the rope seal with a neoprene ford 292 seal which hasn't had an issue in the 13 years and 100k miles since then. I'm sure it would run forever on 15w40, 20w50, or 5w30/10w30, I just prefer the quieter valve train I get with any of the 30 weights. If I was to race the car or tow through the mountains u would switch it out with a 40 weight or thicker, but in my usage these days, running it hard is hitting ~4500 RPM for a split second, not very hard on these engines.
 
Last edited:
Top