Changes in thought process since BITOG

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wemay

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•Use what's recommended in your OM above all opinions.
•No longer even consider using 'performance' oiled gauze air filters.
•There is no best oil.
•You don't need to use a major brand oil to obtain excellent protection.
•If not explicitly recommended by your mfr, synthetic is not req'd.
•Thinner oils do offer excellent protection.
•This site is incredibly addictive and OCD is easy to get.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
•Use what's recommended in your OM above all opinions.
•No longer even consider using 'performance' oiled gauze air filters.
•There is no best oil.
•You don't need to use a major brand oil to obtain excellent protection.
•If not explicitly recommended by your mfr, synthetic is not req'd.
•Thinner oils do offer excellent protection.
•This site is incredibly addictive and OCD is easy to get.


+1
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
•Use what's recommended in your OM above all opinions.
•No longer even consider using 'performance' oiled gauze air filters.
•There is no best oil.
•You don't need to use a major brand oil to obtain excellent protection.
•If not explicitly recommended by your mfr, synthetic is not req'd.
•Thinner oils do offer excellent protection.
•This site is incredibly addictive and OCD is easy to get.




You've been paying attention, to the head of the class!
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
•Use what's recommended in your OM above all opinions.


That works fine as long as your OM specifies one single viscosity and shows no temperature chart.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Dont forget that you must remember which members are useless so you can ignore their posts!


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I wouldn't say useless but I get your point. Lol
 
What I've mainly learned here is that there are a whole bunch of oils and oil filters that will work well.
That was really a confirmation of what I already knew.
I've also learned that short drain intervals acomplish nothing more than waste.
This is a fun and fascinating site.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: wemay
•Use what's recommended in your OM above all opinions.


That works fine as long as your OM specifies one single viscosity and shows no temperature chart.


SM / 5w30, 10w30 / ILSAC GF5-HYUNDAI
SN / 5w30 / ILSAC GF5-Infiniti
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: fdcg27


... also learned that short drain intervals acomplish nothing more than waste.

.


With direct injection, turbos etc, shorter OCI may start to become the norm... again. SUBARU, for example, has already reduced OCI's twice, first on the turbo's, and now on the mainstream engines. 3000 miles, and 6000 miles, respectively.

The problem with greatly extended OCI's, is the risk / reward ratio. Risk an engine to save the cost of an oil change... where as changing the oil perhaps more frequently than needed is a case of waste an oil change, but know the oil / engine will be fine. To each his own...!
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: wemay
•Use what's recommended in your OM above all opinions.


That works fine as long as your OM specifies one single viscosity and shows no temperature chart.


SM / 5w30, 10w30 / ILSAC GF5-HYUNDAI
SN / 5w30 / ILSAC GF5-Infiniti


I get your point but there's a lot of Hyundai's that use a temperature chart like a 2000 Galant for example.

And temperature charts often overlap each other.
 
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: fdcg27


... also learned that short drain intervals acomplish nothing more than waste.

.


With direct injection, turbos etc, shorter OCI may start to become the norm...


+1
Hyundai has been recommending 3000 - 5000 for the d.i. turbos from the get-go.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: wemay
•Use what's recommended in your OM above all opinions.


That works fine as long as your OM specifies one single viscosity and shows no temperature chart.


SM / 5w30, 10w30 / ILSAC GF5-HYUNDAI
SN / 5w30 / ILSAC GF5-Infiniti


I get your point but there's a lot of Hyundai's that use a temperature chart like a 2000 Galant for example.

And temperature charts often overlap each other.


That is also true, lol. I've seen them.
 
I have had a lot of my beliefs verified, and have gotten some good advice. The two areas that were eye opening to me was coolant incompatibility - for many years I put prestone green in everything - probably pre-Dexcool.

Also the importance of using the correct ATF. I always used M1 ATF, so in most cases I was probably ok.

Also that people think people who drive sporty cars drive like jerks. Possibly true.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
That works fine as long as your OM specifies one single viscosity and shows no temperature chart.

Or, if your vehicle has an outdated temperature chart, you use some independent thought and come up with a proper choice.

This old, outdated chart from the Audi 200...

Engine_Oil_Grades.jpg


...means to me that a 5w-40 or 0w-40 or even a 5w-50 would be acceptable for this vehicle from the coldest day of the year to the hottest day of the year, not to mention that the vehicle's descendants all used things like GC/M1 0w-40.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
This old, outdated chart from the Audi 200...

Engine_Oil_Grades.jpg




Outdated? Nonsense!

It was ahead of its time. It foresaw that 5w20 would be the equivalent of 5w30.
 
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