Tried the search but didn't find much. So, the only M1 I can use is 0-40?? All my stash of 5-30 EP is now NG?? Knowing that M1s base stock isn't what it used to be,is there one oil that stands out from the rest? Also, just to rant, big PIA going from spin on filts to cartridge type, I wonder why they went with the older tech?
Opinion On Best Oil For '06 Audi A6??
- Thread starter Quadrasteer
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Just mix it with some 15w-50 EP. The 10w-40 HM is a good oil for that as well, and a bit cheaper...that's probally what I'd use. The Mobil 1 HM oils are the only ones that appeal to me. Otherwise, I'd use 15w-40 or 10w-40 HM dino oils and drain them about 6k. MaxLife 10w-40 would do you well until dead winter. At that time you could get away with a 5w30 for Jan-Feb. The VW oil specs are assuming extend change intervals, which is dubious in my opinion. I'd rather chaneg dino oil 2x as often for the same cost as 2x more expensive synth run twice as long. 5-6k vs 10-12k....I'm very comfortable with dino doing a better job. Don't kid yourself.
Originally Posted By: Quadrasteer
Also, just to rant, big PIA going from spin on filts to cartridge type, I wonder why they went with the older tech?
Just wondering, is it difficult to access? I love the cartridge-type filter on my 530i. The easiest filter I ever worked on. In comparison, accessing the spin-on filter in my old A4 required me to get under the car and I always ended up spilling some oil here and there.
Also, just to rant, big PIA going from spin on filts to cartridge type, I wonder why they went with the older tech?
Just wondering, is it difficult to access? I love the cartridge-type filter on my 530i. The easiest filter I ever worked on. In comparison, accessing the spin-on filter in my old A4 required me to get under the car and I always ended up spilling some oil here and there.
Quadrasteer,
The Mobil oil is the only oil I found readily available in my area NJ at a reasonable cost @4.75 quart.
I put a rag around the base of the filter housing, otherwise the oil drips in the side of the engine block and accumulates on the bellypan leaving oil stains on the floor.
Is your car still under warranty? I have an '07 A6 and am debating whether or not to take to the dealer for service for warranty reasons. It would be the first time I have ever brought a new car back to the dealer with the complexity of this car I am a little concerned. Also do you have a vag com to reset service light?
The Mobil oil is the only oil I found readily available in my area NJ at a reasonable cost @4.75 quart.
I put a rag around the base of the filter housing, otherwise the oil drips in the side of the engine block and accumulates on the bellypan leaving oil stains on the floor.
Is your car still under warranty? I have an '07 A6 and am debating whether or not to take to the dealer for service for warranty reasons. It would be the first time I have ever brought a new car back to the dealer with the complexity of this car I am a little concerned. Also do you have a vag com to reset service light?
QP, did you have a 1.8t? The filter is accessable from above. Just take the 2 mount screws out of the coolant reservior and fold it back on the hoses. It's right there. No need to even remove the bellypan if you have an extractor.
As far as servicing in-warranty Audis, I'd cut the 10k change intervals in half by draining the oil (requires removal of belly pan), using an oil extractor pump to pump it out through the dipstick tube (very cool) or taking it in to the dealer for extra oil changes (cool because they will thimk you are a good owner). I'd get an extractor (wait, I have one already) and change the oil with the same dreadfull Syntec 5w-40 the dealer uses (or Rotella T Synth 5w-40) and just leave the filter in place. The filters are re-used in European services and they say 2 years / 30,000km on them. If you could get the dealer touse the new Syntec SLX Pro, that would be great and maybe better at 10k intervals. The FSI engine is tough on oil.
As far as servicing in-warranty Audis, I'd cut the 10k change intervals in half by draining the oil (requires removal of belly pan), using an oil extractor pump to pump it out through the dipstick tube (very cool) or taking it in to the dealer for extra oil changes (cool because they will thimk you are a good owner). I'd get an extractor (wait, I have one already) and change the oil with the same dreadfull Syntec 5w-40 the dealer uses (or Rotella T Synth 5w-40) and just leave the filter in place. The filters are re-used in European services and they say 2 years / 30,000km on them. If you could get the dealer touse the new Syntec SLX Pro, that would be great and maybe better at 10k intervals. The FSI engine is tough on oil.
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
QP, did you have a 1.8t? The filter is accessable from above. Just take the 2 mount screws out of the coolant reservior and fold it back on the hoses. It's right there. No need to even remove the bellypan if you have an extractor.
Yes, it was a 1.8T. I never tried moving the coolant reservoir out of the way. Sounds like an easier way to do things rather than get under the car. However, it's still more messy than my current cartridge setup. Whenever I unscrewed the spin-on on the 1.8T, there was always some oil spilling from the oil cooler above it. Putting a large ziploc back around the filter and the cooler did help, but it was pretty messy nonetheless.
QP, did you have a 1.8t? The filter is accessable from above. Just take the 2 mount screws out of the coolant reservior and fold it back on the hoses. It's right there. No need to even remove the bellypan if you have an extractor.
Yes, it was a 1.8T. I never tried moving the coolant reservoir out of the way. Sounds like an easier way to do things rather than get under the car. However, it's still more messy than my current cartridge setup. Whenever I unscrewed the spin-on on the 1.8T, there was always some oil spilling from the oil cooler above it. Putting a large ziploc back around the filter and the cooler did help, but it was pretty messy nonetheless.
Quadrasteer, you didn't say what engine you have in your A6. That makes a difference.
Do you have the 3.2L V6 with direct injection, or the 4.2L V8 with manifold injection?
Do you have the 3.2L V6 with direct injection, or the 4.2L V8 with manifold injection?
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I have the 2.0 in the A4 but recently purchased an '06 Avant 3.2. Same canister that the old cars from my past used (why no spin filter?) I thought you had to stick with the oils that met the european spec? What exactly is different in that spec? The M1 0-40 is the only M1 that meets that spec. I bought the tool($50.) to drain the oil canister and it worked well, but after owning many cars that had no covers to remove or needed no special tools it a PIA. The Audizine forum dosen't do a great job of detailing the exact oil change process, but after the first one you'll be ok. I went to ECS Tuning and ordered 2 filters, the magnetic plug with 10 washers and the Schwaben tool to drain the filter canister. So far so good, just plan on it taking a little longer than a "normal" oil change.
Cool. AS far as VW-spec oil, yes for warranty, you ~need~ it, but its' a lame spec that does not represent the best oils available. Look at this UOA from a V8 Audi on Mobil 1 5w-40 "TDT". That is an awesome product and better than lame VW 502 oils like Syntec 5w-40. Mobik 1 0w-40 is not my 1st choice, it shear to a 30 weight and is kind of expensive. Another jug oil that is fit for duty is Mobil 1 High-Miles, either the 10w-30 or 10w-40. I would geta UOA and see how much fuel is in yor oila nd if so, choose a thicker oil, like the 10w-40 HM. German Suyntec is a nother good oil, a 0w-30 that won't shear, a 30 weight making Euro specs. The only 30 to meet Porsche specs. On the heavy end, there is also Pennzoil Platinum 15w-50 at PepBoys. Another VW502 oil is the new Dealer-only oil Castrol SLX Pro 5w30, I'd see of the dealer can supply you that. Keep in touch...and fwiw, imo AudiWorld is a good site to lurk at.
Quadrasteer, the 3.2L FSI V6 is a direct injected fuel diluting monster, with a design and metalurgy very similar to the RS4 engine. If you want to stay with Audi 502 approved oils, then I would recommend LubroMoly Volsynthese 5W40. Mobil 1 0W40 has an extremely poor track record in Audi DI engines.
Otherwise, I would suggest RLI Biosyn 5W40 HD, which I am using in my 2008 A6 with the 3.2L FSI engine.
Otherwise, I would suggest RLI Biosyn 5W40 HD, which I am using in my 2008 A6 with the 3.2L FSI engine.
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I'm thankfull for all the suggestions but it still leaves me guessing as far as the ultimate BITOG question. Which is THE BEST oil to use or at least the most used by our members in these engines. If M1 0-40 has a bad track record and I don't have to stick to the 502 spec, it would be great to know what we would all pick as the 1st, 2nd and 3rd choices for our engines. If I need to stay with 502 oils for warranty reasons than I will but if they're not going to check than I would go with the BITOG concensus. Also, I used the Mann filter, is there a better one out there?
Quad,
The best oil for Audi DI engines is Renewable Lubricants Bio-Synthetic Super High Performance 5W-40 HD. I specifically contracted Terry Dyson to understand and mitigate fuel dilution related wear in the Audi 4.2L RS4 FSI V8 engine. A result of that consulting was the development of an oil specifically for the engine. The RLI 5W-40 oil was the outcome. This was an oil custom designed for Audi FSI engines.
The Audi 3.2L FSI V6 engine, was designed concurrently with the FSI V8 engine, and shares most of the same design features and metallurgy. No oil comes close to the low wear and resistance to fuel dilution that the RLI oil does in Audi DI engines. I say this based on a very extensive oil analysis record that includes 78 UOA's across 22 different engines. The record is so good, that it will be included in a presentation at the Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers meeting in Cleveland, May 18-20, by Bill Garmier of RLI and Ken Hope of Chevron Phillips Chemical, titled: "High Performance Engine Oils with Vegetable Oil and PAO Blends". Chevron Phillips manufactures some of the PAO's that are in RLI oils, and participates in the biosynthetic research with RLI.
The best oil for Audi DI engines is Renewable Lubricants Bio-Synthetic Super High Performance 5W-40 HD. I specifically contracted Terry Dyson to understand and mitigate fuel dilution related wear in the Audi 4.2L RS4 FSI V8 engine. A result of that consulting was the development of an oil specifically for the engine. The RLI 5W-40 oil was the outcome. This was an oil custom designed for Audi FSI engines.
The Audi 3.2L FSI V6 engine, was designed concurrently with the FSI V8 engine, and shares most of the same design features and metallurgy. No oil comes close to the low wear and resistance to fuel dilution that the RLI oil does in Audi DI engines. I say this based on a very extensive oil analysis record that includes 78 UOA's across 22 different engines. The record is so good, that it will be included in a presentation at the Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers meeting in Cleveland, May 18-20, by Bill Garmier of RLI and Ken Hope of Chevron Phillips Chemical, titled: "High Performance Engine Oils with Vegetable Oil and PAO Blends". Chevron Phillips manufactures some of the PAO's that are in RLI oils, and participates in the biosynthetic research with RLI.
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Hi,
Quadrasteer - As you already successfully use it and despite the sometimes "negative" hype you can use M1 0w-40 with great confidence. It has an awesome reputation amongst the engine manufacturers (there are many now) that use it as a factory fill in their super high perfomance supercharged and turbocharged products. It is also used by Porsche as an "off the shelf" race lubricant
It is a great product
Quadrasteer - As you already successfully use it and despite the sometimes "negative" hype you can use M1 0w-40 with great confidence. It has an awesome reputation amongst the engine manufacturers (there are many now) that use it as a factory fill in their super high perfomance supercharged and turbocharged products. It is also used by Porsche as an "off the shelf" race lubricant
It is a great product
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Doug, I'm not sure who you are, but Mobil 1 0w-40 shows inferior performance in Audi FSI engines, and it is the only Mobil product approved by Audi in the US. If you have some specific experience with M1 in modern Audi engine designs, feel free to share it.
Hi,
RI_RS4 - Inferior performance? Please share your tabulated and reliable data with us
Who am I? Does it matter??
I can tell you I do not work for any Oil Company and I am retired. I can also say that I have worked for Chevron-Caltex (in a Technical Management role) and have done extensive lubricants work with both Castrol and ExxonMobil
I have no vested interest in "pushing" any particular product and I can afford to use what I believe to be the very best for me and my vehicles
I won't ask who you are.................!
RI_RS4 - Inferior performance? Please share your tabulated and reliable data with us
Who am I? Does it matter??
I can tell you I do not work for any Oil Company and I am retired. I can also say that I have worked for Chevron-Caltex (in a Technical Management role) and have done extensive lubricants work with both Castrol and ExxonMobil
I have no vested interest in "pushing" any particular product and I can afford to use what I believe to be the very best for me and my vehicles
I won't ask who you are.................!
Hi,
Quadrasteer - Any OEM filter is usually a better animal than an after market product
MANN filters (made by MANN-Hummel Group) are rated by many as the very best around. Use them with confidence - I have since around 1960!
Quadrasteer - Any OEM filter is usually a better animal than an after market product
MANN filters (made by MANN-Hummel Group) are rated by many as the very best around. Use them with confidence - I have since around 1960!
Doug, the reason I ask who you are is that you seem to assume the "Mobil 1 can do no harm" role, ad infinitum. Mobil 1 does an extremely good job in most engines, but there are a few engine types that eat Mobil 1 0W-40 for lunch. Again Doug, where is your data on the new Audi engines? I assume that you have tons of experience with DI engines, do you?
I've experienced issues with M1 in 2 of my recent Audi engines. Other owners have experienced issues with M1 in their recent Audi engines. I have enough analysis data across 22 engines using multiple oils, including M1, to be able to understand what it is doing.
In the RS4 engine, Mobil 1 0W40 Iron wear is off the chart. (M1 seems to have a problem with fuel diluting engines with chain driven camshafts.) Compared to all other oils used in this engine it shows the following traits:
* Poor ring seal, as evidenced by higher nitration numbers
* Higher oxidation
* Extremely high iron wear.
* Poor ZDTP tribofilm retention.
* High consumption following oil breakdown.
The following 502 approved oils flat outperform Mobil 1:
Motul Etech 0W40,and Xcess 5W40
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40
Lubro-Moly Vollsynthese 5W40
By design, RLI 5W40 further outperforms all of these oils.
By training I am Electrical Engineer, and run a consulting business in the design of ultra high performance electronic systems. Some of my oil analysis data is considered good enough, and consistent with lab testing, to be published by Chevron Phillips Chemical and Renewable Lubricants.
Now don't get me wrong, I have absolutely no issue with Mobil 1 in most engines. It does perform quite well. There are just few problem children that will destroy it quickly.
I've experienced issues with M1 in 2 of my recent Audi engines. Other owners have experienced issues with M1 in their recent Audi engines. I have enough analysis data across 22 engines using multiple oils, including M1, to be able to understand what it is doing.
In the RS4 engine, Mobil 1 0W40 Iron wear is off the chart. (M1 seems to have a problem with fuel diluting engines with chain driven camshafts.) Compared to all other oils used in this engine it shows the following traits:
* Poor ring seal, as evidenced by higher nitration numbers
* Higher oxidation
* Extremely high iron wear.
* Poor ZDTP tribofilm retention.
* High consumption following oil breakdown.
The following 502 approved oils flat outperform Mobil 1:
Motul Etech 0W40,and Xcess 5W40
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40
Lubro-Moly Vollsynthese 5W40
By design, RLI 5W40 further outperforms all of these oils.
By training I am Electrical Engineer, and run a consulting business in the design of ultra high performance electronic systems. Some of my oil analysis data is considered good enough, and consistent with lab testing, to be published by Chevron Phillips Chemical and Renewable Lubricants.
Now don't get me wrong, I have absolutely no issue with Mobil 1 in most engines. It does perform quite well. There are just few problem children that will destroy it quickly.
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Hi,
RI_RS4 - You asked this;
"I assume that you have tons of experience with DI engines, do you?"
The answer is yes!
RI_RS4 - You asked this;
"I assume that you have tons of experience with DI engines, do you?"
The answer is yes!
So again, Doug, do you have a factual basis to prove to Quadrasteer that Mobil 1 0w-40 is the best oil for his engine, that it outperforms other Audi approved or non-approved oils? You've certainly not addressed any of the Mobil 1 deficiencies in Audi FSI V6 and V8 engines that I've presented above:
Quote:
In the RS4 engine, Mobil 1 0W40 Iron wear is off the chart. (M1 seems to have a problem with fuel diluting engines with chain driven camshafts.) Compared to all other oils used in this engine it shows the following traits:
* Poor ring seal, as evidenced by higher nitration numbers
* Higher oxidation
* Extremely high iron wear.
* Poor ZDTP tribofilm retention.
* High consumption following oil breakdown.
If you truly have experience with oil in the latest Audi Direct Injected Gasoline engines, and you believe in Mobil 1 as a good technical solution for this engine, you should have no problem in refuting my claims.
Quote:
In the RS4 engine, Mobil 1 0W40 Iron wear is off the chart. (M1 seems to have a problem with fuel diluting engines with chain driven camshafts.) Compared to all other oils used in this engine it shows the following traits:
* Poor ring seal, as evidenced by higher nitration numbers
* Higher oxidation
* Extremely high iron wear.
* Poor ZDTP tribofilm retention.
* High consumption following oil breakdown.
If you truly have experience with oil in the latest Audi Direct Injected Gasoline engines, and you believe in Mobil 1 as a good technical solution for this engine, you should have no problem in refuting my claims.
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FWIW, there's a Forester turbo owner in FL at subaruforester.org that runs TDT 5W40 and gets high fuel dilution, despite a lot of highway miles. Wear is fairly normal though.
-Dennis
Quote:
Interval: 6,376 mi.
Make-up oil: 1.5 qts.
Vis: 70.1
Flash: 360
Fuel: .8%
Interval: 4,851 mi.
Make-up: 1 qt.
Vis: 67.1
Flash: 390
Fuel: .5%
Interval: 4,586
Make-up oil: .5 qt.
Vis: 67.9
Flash: 375
Fuel: TR
Interval: 3,956
Make-up: 0
Vis: 67.3
Flash: 340
Fuel: 1.8%
Interval: 3,203
Make-up: .5 qt.
Vis: 68.7
Flash: 375
Fuel: TR
Interval: 4,311
Make-up:.5 qt
Vis: 70
Flash 375
Fuel: TR
-Dennis
Quote:
Interval: 6,376 mi.
Make-up oil: 1.5 qts.
Vis: 70.1
Flash: 360
Fuel: .8%
Interval: 4,851 mi.
Make-up: 1 qt.
Vis: 67.1
Flash: 390
Fuel: .5%
Interval: 4,586
Make-up oil: .5 qt.
Vis: 67.9
Flash: 375
Fuel: TR
Interval: 3,956
Make-up: 0
Vis: 67.3
Flash: 340
Fuel: 1.8%
Interval: 3,203
Make-up: .5 qt.
Vis: 68.7
Flash: 375
Fuel: TR
Interval: 4,311
Make-up:.5 qt
Vis: 70
Flash 375
Fuel: TR
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