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I've done work on quite a few cars for myself, family, and friends. I myself have NEVER seen a BELT fail at less than 100K. My mothers 98 mazda 626 had an idler failure at 28K. There was a recall on that... She was never notified. I called corporate and asked what they would do... NOTHING! I try...

I've yet to ever see one in person. May never see one. But I'd guess I was about 12 when I learned of all its glory. I'm guessing it HAS been replaced with something undisclosed. Several have said no use for a replacement as satellites can do it all now. EH... I still feel there's an odd job...

I personally would caulk the front half. Any near misses will run down the bowl and could end up under the toilet otherwise. But its your toilet. I usually start and stop the caulk about 2" in front of the flange bolts.

MOST will loosen up.... But during my time wrenching on powersports stuff I found more often than not during initial break in that most Japanese bike and ATV's intake valves will tighten up. Usually due to the face of the valve cupping where it contacts the seat. It allows the valve drop into...

That's heavy, Don't get me wrong but look into the C-5 the Air Force has. I think the maximum take off weight is around 850,000lbs. I seen and walked through one at an air show. The intakes are HUGE.

A friend of mine had an old Galaxy that was tuned and I think a 250W linier. Setting idle the lights on his ford ranger would dim slightly when he keyed up. He had one of those rodger beep things and some funny call sounds too. We used to pull up near some drive up windows in such a way we could...

I'm at a loss for words....

Originally Posted By: soldierman My older galant has a bit over 250K and still shifts and drives like it did when I got it at 83K, I'm pretty sure its only had fluid changes... A friend had an S-10 blazer that went 340K on an early 700-R4 before a planetary grenaded. I'll add that I do 50K...

My older galant has a bit over 250K and still shifts and drives like it did when I got it at 83K, I'm pretty sure its only had fluid changes... A friend had an S-10 blazer that went 340K on an early 700-R4 before a planetary grenaded.

Small selection from what I seen.

Depends on how bad its out and what exactly is out. The caster/camber on that axle is set with offset bushings. If it just needs "touching up" then the bushings that are in it may be rotated a bit. Provided they aren't the factory "preset" ones that can't be rotated due to an "ear" that fits in...

Originally Posted By: hpichris Originally Posted By: wirelessF Is that the original part? How many miles were on it? From the history of the paperwork. Yes it is. 140,000 miles. That's ugly! I replaced the factory one on my Mitsubishi at around 175K and it didn't look near that bad.

Originally Posted By: onion Originally Posted By: soldierman Pull the head. I can't see you ever getting the valve back unless its still in the guide and not sure even then. If I do that job or something similar I usually stuff 3ft of 1/4" rope into the clyinder and rotate to compress the...

Pull the head. I can't see you ever getting the valve back unless its still in the guide and not sure even then. If I do that job or something similar I usually stuff 3ft of 1/4" rope into the clyinder and rotate to compress the rope. Valves won't go anywhere like that.

I watched a good UFC a few weeks ago... Anyhow they mentioned that among one of the ways to be knocked out was just after a fight in which one of the fighters took just such a hit. Apparently there's a nerve just behind your jaw pivot. They said pretty much anyone is vulnerable to it regardless...

Not really an oil change story. But I changed a timing belt on a 626 2.0 once and decided I'd run it a bit before reinstalling the valve cover. Its a cast cover that has "spray" nozzles in it. I didn't notice where the tiny port lined up on the head and you wouldn't believe how hard it is to see...

Its supposedly fine as long as air doesn't contact it... Though with the mess I've seen it cause when not maintained and air does get to it... I WILL NOT run it in anything I own.

Originally Posted By: sayjac You got me! Reeled me right in. A very clever Rubber City Tale. Don't feel bad... he almost had me....

Cooling fins and shroud clean? I've also seen many times the cam and push rod for the points wear out of spec. The result is too much timing advance with the points set at .020 Double check timing with a inductive light at several speeds. Sounds like its getting hot.

Originally Posted By: ZZman First time I have seen that. Anything can happen... But my dad and I have both been mechanics pretty much our entire life. I've never even heard of that happening.