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Thanks guys, I guess I won't worry about it then. Originally Posted By: Bud_One I'd be more worried if I had killed a catalytic converter or not. No need to worry. I'm 100% certain that no catalytic converters were harmed by this.

Last weekend I went to a buddy's house to put long tube headers and motor mounts in my Camaro. On the way home the car was running kinda rough, so I looked under the hood, and I discovered a coilpack was unplugged during the entire 30 mile drive home. Should I be concerned about fuel dilution...

All I have to add is that my vehicles hit the redline at WOT multiple times per day, I go WOT pretty much every chance that I get open, dry pavement ahead of me. However I only do this after my engine is fully warmed up. The 1.8T in my Jetta has 148k miles on it, I've owned it since 82k, and...

Originally Posted By: Olas Redline is the best oil for engines that are used hard and get hot for extended periods. This is true, but I think it would be way overkill for this application. I would go with M1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40.

I'm assuming that the Mobil oil you're talking about is the same stuff as Mobil 1 0w40, which is known for burning off. I wouldn't be worried about it, just switch back to Castrol if that doesn't burn off like Mobil does.

Originally Posted By: askani79705 With so many better choices out there. I'm not sure how they're still around. They market to groups of people who rely on word of mouth instead of researching things for themselves and trying to fully understand how things work. These people generally view blown...

Originally Posted By: Donald Why be the guinea pig on Lucas oil when you know for sure Mobil 1 or PP or Rotella T6 or Amsoil (and others) are high quality oil based upon UOA. I never planned to use it. I was mostly just curious if it's as bad as I think it probably is.

I'm having a very hard time finding information about Lucas Oil's various oils, specially the 20w50 synthetic. The reason I ask is because a friend of mine uses Lucas Oil Synthetic 20w50 in his cammed/blown 5.3 LSX for his dune truck (I live close to Silver Lake dunes) His dad has a 1000+ HP...

I personally would run Redline 5w30 or 5w40 because of it's shear stability as well as it's healthy helping of zinc. If your oil temps are getting above 250, it might be a good idea to get an oil cooler.

Thanks for the replies guys! I think I'll just stick with NAPA Gold/WIX.

I was considering changing from NAPA Gold/WIX over to K&N oil filters because the nut on the top would allow me to change the oil without burning my hand on the oil pan. Like a good BITOG lurker I did a quick search about them; the only threads I found were at least 4 years old, and most of them...

Originally Posted By: FlyPenFly Originally Posted By: fdcg27 Originally Posted By: FlyPenFly Quote: Red Line is not a small company. They could afford the tests and licensing, but a lot of people suspect that most of their products don't actually meet all of the requirements. It may not matter...

I do like Redline oils a lot, I would love to use their motor oils for daily driving, I just can't justify the cost. There are so many LS engines out there with 200k+ miles on them that run like new and have been filled with dino oils the whole time. After shipping it's nearly 3x the cost of...

Originally Posted By: atikovi Perhaps I don't, but why do some engines make a lot of lifter noise when started at say 60F, but not so much at say 20F using the same oil? Not because it's thinner at 60F and doesn't cushion the parts like the oil does at lower temperature when it's thicker? I...

AMMO Skin for sure. Awesome shine, and lasts a really long time.

+1 for Mobil 1 0w40 I use it in my LS1 and it gets absolutely flogged, lots of other people use it in their LS engines as well. Repeating what another user said, LS engines are easy on oil. My dad's 6.0 in his Silverado ran dino oil and was changed according to the OLM for 205,000 miles, when...