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That's ~10% total leakdown on a cold engine. That's why I was asking, the results are good, but part of that leak is from the exhaust valves. On all but 1 it is imperceptible. On one I can hear it. The engine is not in the car so no choice but to do a cold leakdown. In any case, I was only...

Thanks, Yes I think I will do that. I am changing the valve stem seals, it is how I discovered the issue, as I could hear air escaping from one of the cylinders via the exhaust port. I assume I will not require to skim the heads/block if everything is true? Since there was no overheating or...

Here (in Australia), servicing the 2 heads will be about $2,000, so at most I would do a DIY valve lap As above, it is the cost. The leakdown results are still good, and the question is whether this is normal for all engines (especially at this mileage), or whether this is necessary to address

The engine is on a stand and a bare long block. Would it be worth the cost of head gaskets and head bolts to lap the valves would you say?

No, it is not relevant. The issue there was a sticky valve, and how that can be fixed. The issue discussed here is the results of a leakdown, with no issue of sticky valves. If I were to bring up a new issue, 10+ post down in the thread, how many people would see that thread and answer that...

I have remedied the sticky exhaust valve issue, but in the process found out that all exhaust valves have a slight level of leak. Which is what I am asking about here

I asked about a sticky exhaust valve. I have remedied that, but in the process found out that all exhaust valves have a slight level of leak

The engine has not been sitting, and I have had a look with an endoscope camera, all valves etc look good. Hydraulic lifters in this engine

Hi everyone, I performed a leakdown test on a 6G75 3.8 Mitsubishi V6. Engine has 140,000 miles. It is very clean inside though with no sludge or varnish, and crosshatching still on the bores. The engine is on a stand, so I have easy access to everything. The leakdown numbers are OK (10% or...

I think I will try and do that. Initially though I may try cleaning the valves from the port. If that doesn't work then I will pull the head(s) off. I am not sure if the other head (of the V6) has the same issue or not, so might get away with just 1 head. I was trying to avoid that purely on...

4 door. And yes I am on it. But I find this forum is really good for general mechanical expertise as so many people here have so much relevant experience.

I will clean them and see if I can get them to seal when doing a leakdown test. The engine is going into a 1999 widebody Montero. Here in Australia it is called a Pajero

I am trying to clean them, and will continue to clean more. However with a leakdown tester, air is escaping from them still. So I am not sure if this means heads off to get it fixed

Hi everyone, I have a 3.8 Mitsubishi 6G75 on an engine stand preparing it for use. Using a leakdown tester to keep the valves up while replacing valve stem seals. I noticed a couple of exhaust valves are dirty from carbon deposits (presumably oil has been leaking through the seals), and only...

I might be a bit paranoid, but I was worried of damaging the pistons and cylinders. As I would expect that only the cylinders would have gotten too hot, the rest of the engine was just a tiny bit warm to the touch

I had the water pump out previously. so presumably very little coolant in there. Though yes, there would be some coolant. It's a BMW M62 V8 engine, and I had just changed the timing chain and guides. While at it, I replaced the water pump too (hence drained coolant)

Hi everyone, I started and idled a car for about 60-90 seconds without coolant in it. At the time I thought such little amount of time won't be an issue. Since then I am worried that because there was no coolant, the cylinders themselves got too hot as the transfer of heat wasn't possible...

Thanks everyone. The rack is from an old Lancer Evo so it's fairly rare. Replacement of it isn't really an option, so just repair really... I am searching for a destroyed rack that I can salvage that bit off of, but failing that I somehow do need to repair that. I assume a repair + a custom...

Like, gone... I kept tightening it and then it let go. It didn't feel that tight, but I guess soft metal...

Hi everyone, I stripped the threads on the high pressure in line of my power steering rack. Does anyone know how to fix this? I assume a helicoil type fix would work in theory, but I am not sure that it can go deep enough etc with the drill. Pics for reference of what I stripped