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There is a general rule of thumb that the cost of the printer is inversely proportional to the cost of the cartridges. IOW, they get you one way or the other.

I put some Mevotech Supreme sway bar links on a vehicle a few years ago, and they didn't last long. But, others seem to like their parts. I wonder if maybe they source parts for different applications from different mfrs.

I'm curious how much ZDDP was in run-of-the-mill PCMOs in the 1960s/70s/80s. Does anyone know of any VOA/UOAs? Thanks!

This is what I usually do. If a caliper seems to be sticking, I figure it could be either the caliper or hose, so I just replace both.

^^^This. You can't condemn the battery by testing it while discharged. Fully charge it first - using a proper charger overnight, not by driving it for 20 minutes - then re-test.

Here's a recent thread on the topic. There was another one I was searching for, but can't find it right now. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/lower-oil-pressure-mid-oci-pf48.380194/

Next time you tow, and the oil pressure drops after that, try changing just the filter and see what happens. I seem to recall a post about a similar engine with low oil pressure, where the pressure increased after a filter change.

Sorry to hear about your dad! When you get around to doing the swap, please start a new thread so we can follow along.

If the noise started with a new belt, then it's probably caused by the belt. Might just be the difference between a worn belt and a new one. Since you have a new belt, idler, and tensioner, I'd just run it and keep an eye on things.

Good to know!

When I buy E0 for my bikes or OPE, I make sure to go to a station with separate hoses for each type.

I would, without hesitation. I always use SAE30 in my lawnmower.

See, that's the thing: I had a bad experience with Mevotech sway bar links, and they were not Mevotech's cheap line. I do think the other posters are right: the "best" suspension parts vary by vehicle. I'm guessing this is because a company might make their own parts for some vehicles, and...

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I think he means he got a refund of the $9.95 he sent in for S&H. He's still stuck with a broken ratchet. @D60 can you clarify?

^^^This. OE, SKF, and Timken are the only 3 options I consider for hub/bearing assemblies. Also, stay away from ebay and Amazon...they are crawling with counterfeit parts.

If you can find a Conklin dealer, their Fuel Mate+ additive is excellent. It's also quite concentrated, with a treat rate of 1 oz to 10 gallons of fuel.

I use a short 1/4" ratchet and get the bolts snug. Then I retighten them after a couple heat cycles. Not very scientific, but it's always worked for me.