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FWIW I used Severe Gear (the blue stuff) in a 1999 Jeep Cherokee after about 30,000 miles, didn't change it for 20 years and it still looked good when I would check it. The car was a spare we had setting around for my wife who worked at a hospital and had to get to work for her shift regardless...

FWIW I used 5W-30 when I had my 2018 Mustang GT but I mostly babied it. It would on occasion get some hard 0-60 pulls on the open road.

Those 3.9 Dakotas seem to last longer than any other truck I know of, though. I've seen two with over 400K miles and one was on the original transmission. Both never had the motor opened up for anything.

Yeah, you would think if it's an oiling problem you would hear knocking from the hydraulic lifters not getting enough pressure or at least on startup.

I did a road trip to FL a couple of years ago along with some around town driving and I averaged a little over 18 mpg in my 2012 Chevy fullsize V-6 cast iron 4.3 with the 4 speed auto transmission. It's not as good as the usual 20 mpg but I-95 moves fast. The truck is 2WD and extended cab.

I've found from experience that universal joints without grease fittings last longer than the ones that have them, but ball joints, tie rod ends, etc. that don't have fittings don't.

I've owned two Challengers; a V-6 and a V-8. Honestly, my favorite one was the six because of the smoother riding suspension and automatic transmission. My R/T had the manual transmission and the ratios are screwy on that transmission. My suggestion is a SXT Plus (gives you leather seats...

If you can find an older Toro Super Recycler it will basically last forever. I scavenged one from the landfill about 4-5 years ago and decided to fix it up with a new Briggs motor, drive wheels and a few other cables and parts that were getting worn out. I put a total of $360 into it but it gave...

FWIW I had a 2008 Colorado and traded it for a fullsize Chevy (2012 Silverado in my profile). The full size is much more capable and didn't really cost much more than a small truck. Reliability has been almost perfect. I had a fuel tank pressure sensor go bad and replaced it for $30+ with a...

If the transmission goes out, it can be fixed when it actually goes bad; it's a separate component. What he knows now is that the motor seems to me like it's worn out and since this vehicle is used for making money downtime is a major consideration. It's admittedly a difficult decision, though.

I thought the motor should be replaced with 200K miles of local delivery service. If they planned on keeping it, may not be a bad idea to do an oil pressure and compression test, maybe leakdown too. I'm a fan of his channel.

I would do a compression test first thing after you change the PCV valve again with an OEM valve.

They can if there's a broken ring.

FWIW I have a 40 mile commute and my commuter car is my Cadillac XT4. It averages 28 mpg on premium, but I gotta be comfy on my commute.

1969 AMX just like this one.

Make sure you don't have a bent hub. I went through this on a 2000 Mustang I fixed up from a wreck. It had been curbed (I assume) and the rear axle flange had a wobble and shaky braking. I had to get a junkyard rear axle for it.

Someone stole your filter at the dealer.

Bruh, stop with the pRoGrEsSiVE LeFT nonsense.

Everyone I know with a big block Chevy uses 20W-50, but if the lifter mfg says to use 10W-40 then that's what I would use. FWIW I use 15W-40 truck oil in my 4.3 Mercruiser. A non high performance boat should be ok with truck oil.

Pre-ignition and spark knock are synonymous. I think you're referring to LSPI