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Originally Posted By: CATERHAM Originally Posted By: dew Ps, my 01 Tacoma has done so many short trips with 5w30 and 270K miles, I don't think start up wear will be an issue... And what are your winters like in your part of California? The single biggest factor that effects engine wear is...

Maybe the yearly oil change with QSUD 5w30 to save a few bucks. I'd defiantly do the yearly with synthetic rather than the 6mo option. Save you money in oil, filters, time, and effort. Ps, my 01 Tacoma has done so many short trips with 5w30 and 270K miles, I don't think start up wear will be...

Originally Posted By: Brybo86 M1 5w30 in everything. Done. Another vote for this ^^^^^^^^^ It looks like virtually everything you have specs a 30 grade. If the Honda motor specs 10w-30, it will be fine on 5w30 as long as its synthetic. One and done.

Originally Posted By: MolaKule Originally Posted By: dew It would be nice to see an explication of how Group III is not a form of synthetic. Is it that severe hydrocracking is not considered chemical synthesis? I think you have hit upon one of the reasons why. Hydrocracking is a catalytic...

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno Originally Posted By: dew Don't think the distinction between M1 and PP would even matter. Penz claims up to X% better cleaning than M1, which isn't much of a claim. I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't...

It would be nice to see an explication of how Group III is not a form of synthetic. Is it that severe hydrocracking is not considered chemical synthesis?

Don't think the distinction between M1 and PP would even matter. Penz claims up to X% better cleaning than M1, which isn't much of a claim. I've used M1 @ 10k intervals with over 270 k miles on my truck and a spotless engine. I wouldn't want better cleaning, frankly. I'd do one shorter...

Originally Posted By: Shannow Originally Posted By: dew Sorry, I don't have the link at the moment but there is a fairly recent YouTube video comparing the ability to pour at about -40 F for 4 different 5w30 oils. Amsoil, M1, Royal Purple & Supertech dino. It didn't look rigged to me. The M1...

Originally Posted By: gathermewool I don't use or follow Amsoil products, so I'm out of the loop. Got a source for their synthetic being group 3 now? Kind of hard to believe they'd charge $10+/quart for group 3, no matter how good the additives. Sorry, I don't have the link at the moment but...

Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje Been buying Gillette Twin-Trac blades there for years. Invest in a good quality old fashioned safety razor and get a 100 pack of replacement blades on amazon for under $10. Not only does it shave better, it doesn't get clogged up after a few days. I got...

If in doubt, you could make sure you catch it all then pour into an empty 5 quart motor oil container. That should get you close if you don't spill. Also, I think it's easiest to check it running, completely cold. If anywhere in the range don't add. You can check it hot later during a long...

Maxlife Best bang for the buck. It has improved my shift quality over Supertech. A little crisp at first but it has settled in to like new shift quality. I'll drain and fill 4 quarts about every 30k now. Every 20k before synthetic.

I had this problem on my 01 Tacoma. Premium rotors and pads has helped a lot (as well as proper bedding procedure). But I still expect the problem to recur before the pads are completely worn out. Sometimes an unfortunate hard stop leads to uneven tempering in the rotor. The rotor will then...

Lawn mowers and such might be a good use for leftover 0w40. The viscosity of the mix is predictable but the overall performance is not. Same manufacturer doesn't necessarily matter.

I maintain my parent's fleet and they have a Fusion also that I put M1 0w-20 in. There doesn't seem to be any difference after a change for them either. You can't really hear the valve train much from inside their car though. Also, all of the vehicles I've maintained with hydrolic lifters never...

There have been enough 10Kish UOAs posted over the years where the group II oil had thickened (maybe not out of grade but significantly thicker than when it went in) and the group IIIs like M1/PP were still modestly thinner than when they went in.

I'm either changing it every oil change or every other. E.g. with a Fram ultra I go 20k, with a TG I go 10k. Don't care to get dirty unless I'm already changing the oil.

Was using M1 but switched partly due to the bleeding. However, I haven't found another non-moly grease that works on my Toyota drive shaft spline...

On a side note, when I was using Mobil 1, I didn't need a seperatly moly grease for the spine. You could feel it starting to fade at around 8k but that was good enough as I grease every time I change oil.

Darn, I just bought a tube of Synpower and was planning on using just that on my Toyota truck. Now I'm having second thoughts. Thus far I've never used a moly grease on U joints, just the drive shaft spline...