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Motul Gear 300 comes with 2 flavors, 1 is transmission fluid with GL4/GL5 rating with no LS additive, and the other one is GL5 rating for differential with LS additive.

I used to always go for Akebono in the past, but in my new car I good great price and product for Element 3 EHT. The only minus is just the first brake in the morning has soft little squeal that will disappear on the second time you brake. It has been about 130k km on original rotor, no wobbling...

it is too dark for gasoline engine running 120 miles, but it is ok for old diesel engine

I have a good success with this CRC product https://www.crcindustries.com/products/motor-treatment-16-fl-oz.html It helps to keep the gasoline stable and at the same time clean the internals, car always start on first try, no hesitation on acceleration, even the car has been left a year without...

I agree, the black color is one of the sign the oil has been oxidized due to high temperature exposure. I have noticed my old Toyota with OHV low power relax engine always keep the oil clean for 10k kms, but the newer engine with VVTi will make the same oil black in 5k kms.

I believe this is the reason, the GTL based oil performance is pretty similar with PAO, cleans better and cheaper. I think European producer has put this formulation for years even for long drain BMW spec driven in autobahn

Changing every 20,000 miles is good enough, except that you have 80% stop and go traffic every day.

I am still clearing my old M1 HM 10w30 and my Fuchs Titan GT1 Evo 0w20 :D, my Shell Helix Ultra SN Plus 0w20 and M1 EP 0w20 API SP will need to wait then

It is for cvt model from 2018 onwards

The Redline is good, seems lockup faster on my Subaru. However, still need to change after 50k km to prevent unnecessary issue. Can tell the CVT not so smooth after 50k.

No wonder the jump on the moly due to LM product added

On this part, I dont really trust Subaru recommendation, they backtrack the spec going back to 75w-90 after their Extra MT cause excessive wear and noise for the rear differential.

Why dont just follow redline recommendation ? MTL for manual trans and standard 75W-90 at rear differential ? Are we more knowledgeable than the oil producer ?

I just changed all my car DOT 3 fluid with DOT 5.1, so far the brand determines the frequency of change, the DOT rating does not really matter on the water absorption, but brand it is

It is great that Mazda depends on the mechanical way to improve the handling rather than electrical one, which gives more reliability and consistency.

Yes shock absorber will get harder after sometimes until the point its seal broken/oil leaks and then becomes very bouncy (no resistance)

My guess the soak will not help anything with the oil consumption, it may make it worst, because it is typical the valve seal will break down after 10 years. Old seal plus Kroil is recipe for quick destroy.

So for 30 weight oil, API SP is less tough than VW 504/Porsche C30 For 20 weight oil, API SP is less tough than VW 508/Porsche C20 ? How about Acura HT-06 for 30 weight and RBSO-2AE for 20 weight ? Any particular characteristic need to be paid attention before just use Porsche standard ?

That plug is for small motorbike, so it is not common is US, but is common in developing countries in certain parts of Asia, and there is no point to buy the normal one instead the iridium one since the cost different is minimum but the performance gain is significant. But if the dealer sell...

yeah I dont think they are stupid enough risking their authorized dealership with principal, but many big store that is not directly authorized perhaps will do so