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That one of my main tool brands along with Stahlwille, I have all the Hazet Torx, E-torx, Innen hex and XVN. I use the Capri for convenience working away from my place. Hazet and Stahlwille easily rivals Snap on or any other with this type of tool.

Don't get me wrong Makita makes very good tools and I am a long years fan but they seem to be neglecting the automotive repair segment either deliberately abandoning or have some misbegotten notion the auto repair trade is going the way of the dodo with EV vehicles not needing so many repairs...

I finally decided to dump most of my Makita stuff except for the new mid torque. After a lot of research and thinking I finally decided on Dewalt as my new basic platform and started with the DCF 921 with a 5A power stack on sale from HD. This is a great deal...

Now I feel shortchanged. Thanks. 😁

I never worked more than 36 hrs a week, 30 working days (6 weeks) paid vacation, 13 months pay plus a holiday bonus and about 15 paid holiday days.

You are thinking of the old DDR not West Germany and the Germany we know today. Read what the don't teach in US schools today. https://www.hoover.org/research/leaving-socialism-behind-lesson-germany

I would use HDEO 5w40 or 10w40. Having own this car a few other early Rivs My only real concern is the old rope main seals, they may leak with any oil at that age. A larger concern when I had mine was the valve seats running no lead gas, I had hardened seats installed.

I doubt it, my niece bought one in a Versa, she drives like an old lady and serviced the car and CVT regularly, at 60K it had gone through 3 of them all under warranty. Then she jumped from the frying pan into the fire and bought a new Hyundai Palisade that has had quite a few engine problems.

ESP 5w30 or Castrol Euro 0w30, I get better hot oil pressure with the Castrol even though both are good. Going by the specs on the Castrol euro 0w30 it must be a special sauce.

I use 2 Brother laser printers every day for years now and never had a problem, the consumables last a long time and not expensive for the amount of printing you get out of them. I have the MFC-9130 CW color laser and the HL-2270DW black and white.

ETA is great especially in the chronometer grade, the Tudor probably uses the chronometer grade 2892 which is an iconic movement. The base 2824 is okay but nothing to write home about.

Very nice!!!

I do not see people bashing MB, BMW or other EV manufacturers except maybe Ford and rightfully so) anywhere near as much, they have been building high quality cars for 100 years and more they know how to build cars and are just trying something new. If it all goes up in smoke the no big deal...

Yes it is. If you look at it it can only this deep. A impact or deep impact may offer a little more contact area.

I think it is just the opposite. Tesla may be okay with tech but the quality of their vehicles is sketchy at best.

Depending on how the engine was honed and if it uses normal tension rings not low tension ones MPG and power may increase over the next 5-10K.

I get the sports and ski thing but the checking the ego at the town line thing?

My brother uses a large whiteboard all the time. I saw many patented things used in internet technology developed on that board. The scribbling on that board could not be done on some program, brain to pen is where its at.

I have and I know the design you are referring to a 3 part disk with a composite disc in the middle AKA Norglide. The disc does use a teflon based polymer between the disc plates that acts as a "bearing" but this design has a lot of shortcomings and not common. I suspect this is what you have...

It has balls or needles in between the 2 disk otherwise it would just bind. Every one of these mount bearings has them. https://www.hondapartsnow.com/oem-honda-odyssey-strut_bearing.html