Search results

Thank you. I wasn't sure if Felpro would be a good choice for this application or not. I may just do the felpro.

Any recommendations for the best valve cover gasket kit these days for the 3.6L? Mopar? Felpro? I'd really like to do this once and be done for at least another 125k+miles. Thanks.

It is time to replace the struts on my T&C. I am going to go with quick struts. I have two questions: I essentially have Carquest Premium, KYB, NAPA or Monroe to pick from. Any reason to choose one over the other? What else should be replaced at the same time? My shop said they do sway bar...

We have a winner. It was a clutch pedal mod meant to reduce the dead space of the clutch travel. Once it was removed, problem solved. The heat made things stretch just enough the spacer was preventing full clutch operation.

Dodge charger with the 3.6L.

I thought that too when hearing the original complaint but if it was getting too thin, I would expect everything to feel very notchy like it is a mechanical metal-to-metal feeling. It should feel harder not like a gummy/sticky feeling.

Do they make the Conti LX25 in your size? If so, my van does MUCH better on the LX25 than it did on the truecontact. Truecontact was a fine tire but the Chrysler T&C would break the grip on dry and wet starts all the time. No such issues with the LX25. First tire I have had on this van that...

seems backwards to me but maybe RL MTL-LV is worth a try at this point.

Ecogard is another option.

Sounds like starter heat soak, poor battery cables and vapor lock are items that need to be investigated further. Thanks everyone.

this is a new one to me.....Got a VW GTI 6spd MTX here with Redline MTL (15k miles on fluid ~3 years). When it has been around 95F lately, the shifting has gotten problematic. It doesn't feel like the fluid is getting to thin where you get a really notchy metal-on-metal type hard shift. When the...

Would priming longer before starting address a vapor lock situation?

No. Even tried letting it prime longer before starting on the hot start. The extra priming didn't make any difference.

The question at hand is regarding a 1988 Ford Ranger with the 2.9L V6. It has an issue where when things are cold (ambient temps 80F or so) it starts normally but when it is hot it will start really slow. Not only does it take longer amount of time, it just seems the engine isn't spinning as...

I dont have the 2.5 DI but my 2018 Forester 2.5L seems to like M1 5W-30 and Kirkland FS 5W-30. I'm running 10k OCIs with no oil consumption measurable.

Thanks everyone. I'm going to go with the MOPAR belt and MOPAR idle pulley for now. The tensioners on these are very strong/robust. I'm going to wait until I do the belt and see if the tensioner feels week at all because $200 is a bit much at this point and I think i'd start hearing warning...

I would definitely use the OE tensioner but it is $200+ so I am going to squeeze more life out of it hopefully.

Because I have read that Dayco belts are better than OEM on this board previously. If they are as good or better and I can save $17, seems easy.

Not a big enough deal for me to rule out the MOPAR but about $17.

My lovely van is at 120k miles and I am still on the original serp belt. It looks fine but I want to get it replaced sooner rather than later. I was going to go with the Dayco 5060770 or the MOPAR. Any differences worthwhile between the two? My main reason for this post though is to ask if...