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If you use an inspection camera and a three jaw flexible gripper you can remove all that junk without taking anything apart. You can get a cheep inspection camera that plugs into your phone.

As I read this I am drinking a cup of tea,orange pekoe.

Originally Posted By: MolaKule Quote: For manual transmissions that share the same sump with hypoid differentials, such as the Subaru drivelines, a special GL-5 lubricant is used which has the synchromesh friction modifier. But this is an exception. Does the friction modifier increase or...

So if gl-5 is anti corrosive, has a superior EP package, why list that it works in a gl-3, gl-4 application? I mean SN works in a SM application.

When was the last time you saw any modern hypoid differential that contained anything but steel components? What about something like a Subaru, the gearbox and differential are in the same bath. Thank you for posting the links, your work is much appreciated.

How can a gear oil be formulated to achieve gl-3, gl-4 and gl-5 in a single bottle? My understanding is that the high pressure additives are increased over each other.

I have a snap on set, hard handle in red... It's still in the wrapper. I bought it to replace my orange set.

I have gone as far as to make a special socket to remove the internally corroded lug nuts. Just take die grinder and wallow out the flats until it fits. Or sometimes you can use the metric or imperal equivalent to the swollen lug, but that depends on the initial size.

Awsome!

Originally Posted By: old1 Some of you all must not read the original post, as he has already bought a new carb. and it does start. Possibly it just needs adjusting, and he doesn't have the proper tool. I don't think they (the tool) costs much, so that is where I would start. No tool required...

Originally Posted By: QMartinez I don't get the throw away mentality. I completely understand where you are coming from wanting to figure out the issue so you will have the knowledge in the future. You will be better for it. I have a weedeater featherlite that I bought new in 2001. I use it...

This indeed is a sad time in a pet owners life. May I suggest that you walk into a high kill anamal shelter and have a look around. I know that you will find a friend and save a life at the same time.

What I mean was, prior to the specification change in the past a 90wt was generally thicker then say a 80w90. Once the SAE changed the spec the 90 wt became essentially a 110 wt. A multi weight oil is more "true" to its weight being closer to the actual weight on the lable. (Think of how gc...

Is the old SAE 90 the new 110wt? Now that the specs have changed?

Car in question is a 2006 Subaru sti. The manual only recomends a SAE 90 wt. Subaru's lsd 90wt is no longer available, it has been replaced with a 80w90. This rear end has a limited slip differential that requires a friction modifier. Should I use the Subaru branded 80w90? Should I find...

Get yourself any 15w40 HDEO and be done if you do not want to buy 5w40. All the cool kids buy 15w40 in a pail... Because its cheeper.

I have had jugs labeled with one grade on the front of the container, and another label on the back with a different grade. 5w30 on front 5w20 on the back. I called the company and was told just to take it back to the store I purchased it from. I just used it up as make up oil.

Do you think the word "stash" makes it sound like some sort of addiction? I would pour in 75w90 gl5 normally but I just don't feel like buying any unless I was convinced otherwise... Also, do you think a boutique gl5 gear oil is "better" over a name brand?

Car is a 2004 impreza with the 4eat automatic transmission. Manual recommends 80w90 for the front diff and 75w90 for the rear. I just usually run 75w90 front and rear... But its time for a fluid change. I have in stock 80w90 gl4/gl5 (how does this meet two different specifications?) I also...

I recommend a nice new boneyard seat. Might find a great condition one.