I'm probably more worried about flow than I am efficiency, because I'm lucky if I put more than 50 hours a season on this engine before the oil gets changed again. Good oil flow to those bearings that are getting hammered under constant load is much more important. Thanks for the input!
Purolator Boss apparently has a synthetic media. I found a PBL25288 apparently has the same threads and gasket as the WIX filters I was using, but has a narrower cannister. Are these decent filters?
When I built the engine and ran it on a test stand with wet exhaust, I was seeing a little bit of water in the primaries. I did some modifications to the headers to extend the inner pipe as far as possible to move the point where the water is introduced as far downstream as possible. Long sordid...
My main concern is how the media would react to any moisture that could be present. In a marine engine you can end up getting some moisture in the crankcase due to reversion of the exhaust from cam overlap and wet exhaust, as well as condensation due to the cold lake water flowing through the...
Apparently that is a different filter - the p85522 for the Carquest. It it too long and too skinny. Local Advance Auto didn't have a PF25 to check it against.
BrendanC, changing the bypass at this point would almost certainly involve pulling the engine, something I'm not really interested in doing at this point in the game. Thanks for the advice.
I'm running a thermostatic sandwich adaptor, so the oil only flows through the cooler when it gets hot enough to trigger the t-stat (can't remember the exact temp). I usually run about 180- 200 degrees when running at cruise speed. If I lean on it for a while I have seen it get to around...
First time post here. I have a boat with a Gen VI based big block Chevy - stroked 454 in a performance marine application. When I built the engine, I did a lot of research, and learned that people were having problems with the stock GM bypass valve in the block (right above the filter adaptor)...