Recent content by Todd_96SRV

I use a syringe to suck all the old fluid out of the cup, then refill with new fluid. I then bleed each corner until the fluid is clean. Typically a full flush is about 500ml of fluid for me.

Anti-Seize reduces the friction on the threads, making the applied torque produce a bigger clamp load on the threads. I always seated the plug by hand, then did 1/4 turn, eliminating the need for a torque wrench in this application. 1/4 turn dry or lubed will produce the same results.

I've run 2 sets of Powerslots on my 1996 Prelude VTEC with very, very good results. No warping, ever, despite all the dumb things I do in my car. I've put over 100K on a set of Powerslots using Metal Master pads, actually wearing out the slots (but not warping!). I liked these so much, I put a...

Loctite's Blue threadlockers come in a variety of grades. 242 - The original medium strength 243 - Surface Insensitive, useful on "as received fasteners" 248 - Stick threadlocker, semi solid, easy to use and clean 2440 - Primerless threadlocker, works fast on Stainless and other "inactive"...

Treat it as a primer, you can topcoat it with an industrial enamel for longevity.

I wouldn't use it on the lug threads, makes it too easy to overtorque and create other problems. The mating faces of the (aluminum) wheel and hub are the right place to use antiseize. FWIW, if you have issues with lug nuts seizing, you're probably not inspecting your brakes or rotating your...

Anyone seen the new Disc Brake Quiet stick from Loctite? It's a tacky, sticky material that you apply to the contact areas of the pad and caliper and between shims. The stuff cures when you bed the brakes, so you don't need to wait for it to dry. I always found the liquids and sprays messy...

The bottles are permeable to air and only filled halfway. This keeps the product liquid.

Don't use any of those solvents, you will kill your leather. What we usually reccomend for superglue removal is water. A damp sponge or a Q tip or something that is moist will (in time) decompose the adhesive bonds. Superglue & water aren't compatible... Try it.

Sure brakes need a flush, but there is no point in pushing the old fluid from the resevoir into the lines when you could drain & refill it with fresh fluid. Then start your bleeding from there... Much better methodology...

The 2JZ-GTE motor in the MKIV Supras was bulletproof.

Polyurethane does not have hot oil resistance, use a heavy body silicone like Loctite Instant Gasket or Ready Gasket....

I do my engine when it's a little warm. The heat loosens up any grease & keeps the mist from settling into the small electrical parts. If you can put your hand on the valve cover without it burning, you're ok to was the engine.

Is it a sway bar or a strut bar, they are very different parts. Swaybar = Anti-roll bar, keeps car flatter through corners. Mounts to frame & links to control arms. Strut bar/brace = Stiffener. Keeps chassis from deflecting or torquing under high cornering loads. Upper & lower variations for...

I've got a 2hp, 6 gallon model & it does the job... I use a 1/2" impact gun on all types of bolts & a 3/8" air ratchet without much trouble. The compressor cycles frequently, but I've never really had a lack of torque as result of a small compressor...