Recent content by SR5

Nothing wrong with running a mineral oil with a modern approval like SN/SN+/SP, especially with a OCI of 3k miles. I’ve been switching between conventional and semi-synthetic and full-synthetic for years. 10W30 is a good grade, but if you can still cold start OK, then you could consider a...

That’s a good oil for heavy duty & high performance applications.

Coming from a country where thick oil was the norm. I used Penrite HPR 30 (20W-60, A3/B3) in everything I had for over a decade. With the occasional use of GTX 20W-50 when I was short of cash, and Castrol Edge 10W-60 synthetic when I was feeling rich. Nothing bad happened to any engine I...

This weekend 9-10 March, it's 20% off all Castrol oils and Repco brand oil filters at Repco stores. Also Penrite MC4ST motorcycle oils are 25% off.

From member Shannow: "Years ago, I was at a dinner, and sitting next to one of the Castrol chemists who was involved in the early testing of the magnatec. He stated categorically tht it works. Their test protocol on the test engines was * baseline (Mobil 1 actually). * flushing oil. * test oil...

I agree. I really liked the original semi-synthetic Magnatec, I too found it super smooth and quite. I often caught myself glancing down when stopped at a red light, to check my engine was still running (it was). Nothing else did that. They then brought out the full synthetic Magnatec. I tried...

I was bush walking once and came to a quick halt as I saw a Death Adder (#9) on a rock just in front of me. Looking closer, I saw it had a tick full of blood right in the centre of its head. Sort of forming a triangle with its two eyes. Thinking the venom from the tick would probably slow the...

Yes the good thing about Euro rated oils, either full-SAPS ACEA A3/B4 or mid-SAPS ACEA C3, is they must have a min HTHS of 3.5 cP, plus they must pass a stay-in-grade shear stability test. Also if they carry MB 229.5 (full SAPS) or MB 229.51 (mid SAPS) then they are also required to have a...

My go to thick 30 grade oil is Castrol Edge 5W30 A3/B4, it's a Euro grade oil that carries ACEA A3/B4, MB 229.5 and BMW LL-01. Last time I looked it had a listed viscosity of KV100 = 11.9 cSt. It also has Euro levels (~ 1000 ppm) of ZDDP (zinc and Phos) meaning it's "only" API SL due to it...

I hope you son is doing these oil changes with you, so he knows what to do when he takes over looking after the car.

That should be a crime. I really liked the Ford AU XR8, great looking rear wheel drive V8 Aussie muscle car.

Those two Penrite oils make for an interesting comparison: Penrite HPR 5 (5W40) a full-SAPS synthetic with API SP, ACEA A3/B4 and MB 229.5 (they showed the MB certificate at one stage). KV100 = 14.4 cSt, VI = 167, Zinc = 1240 ppm, TBN = 10.4, SA = 1.28% Penrite Enviro+ (plus) 5W30 a mid-SAPS...

I agree, it's the miles driven and fuel burnt that contaminates the oil. With some of my lesser driven vehicles, I would still change the oil at 10,000km but it may have taken me 18 months to get there.

I'm a ZDDP (zinc) fan, it has three positive effects: - it's a powerful quencher of LSPI (low speed pre-ignition) events in modern DI engines, - it's an antioxidant, so it protects the oil from aging (it's historical first application), - and it's an anti-wear additive that protects the metal of...

There is also Valvoline SynPower 5W30 full synthetic, it is API SP, ILSAC GF-6A and Dexos1-Gen3. You can get it at Bunnings-NZ for $61 (NZD) for 5L. It's a good oil. Ref. Below: NZ Bunnings web page and Valvoline SynPower product sheet...