Recent content by Rev320

Warren is a big time blender of oil and other automotive chemicals. They make private label products and also sell under their own MAG1 and ACCEL brands. They make everything from (junk) outdated HD30 non-detergent motor oil, to (quite good) conventional, semi-syn, and group III synthetic oils...

Different companies use different additives in different quantities to try to pass the ILSAC engine sequence tests. How much of this or that element shows up in new oil doesn't always relate to overall performance. The same elements can show up in all kinds of different chemicals. It's how the...

The better oils are generally not sold as basic conventional oil. They are higher mileage oils, synthetic blends (including Mobil 7500), and full synthetics. Since conventional motor oil has basically become a commodity, the pricing has become so competitive that nobody really makes much money...

Ziggy: As motor oil standards have improved, the differences between brands of conventional oil have become very small. The motor oil makers also change their formulations frequently, and a given brand might be bottled in several locations, contracted to different blenders who might be using...

The first part of the viscosity grade indicates that the oil is thinner than some maximum viscosity at a given cold temperature. Synthetics typically remain much thinner than conventional oils at this temperature. They also have no waxes to congeal and block the filter entirely at really cold...

Although I'm relatively new here, I've been participating in Automotive boards for quite a while, and have done huge amounts of reading on lubricants for cars and my job as a mechanical manufacturing engineer. This oil stuff is just getting me too nutty . . . and I think I'm in good company...

Although I'm relatively new here, I've been participating in Automotive boards for quite a while, and have done huge amounts of reading on lubricants for cars and my job as a mechanical manufacturing engineer. This oil stuff is just getting me too nutty . . . and I think I'm in good company...

All of the conventional oils are comparable. The Mobil 7500 is probably about equal to the synthetic blends. Synthetics are better yet. The botique synthetics lke Amsoil are great if you live in Alaska or drive huge amounts of miles. Buy any conventional oil, GF-4 rated. Change it every 4,000...

If the vehicles are running Ok, I would just forget about the AutoRX. Your oil change schedule looks good. Any brand synthetic on the Toyota and Lexus . . . whatever is easy to get . . .even the SuperTech Synthetic at Walmart. Use any GF-4 oil that's on sale for the Nissan. With your relatively...

They are also blending chemicals of which they know the exact composition, and test them exhaustively to make sure that they behave well together. You are mixing up stuff of which you know know very little about and hoping for the best. I wish you well.

I used wax/oil rust preventive sprays on it, and rinsed the undercarriage frequently in the winter. I live right near Lake Michigan, where the daytime temperature holds right around freezing much of the winter so the roads are covered with semi-liquid slop. With all the salt they use here...

Try to find an MSDS on both and you'll know exactly what they are.

I'm assuming it's already soaked into the concrete. If it's just a small area, I'll squirt it with liquid dish washing detergent,(no water) scrub it in with a scrub brush or broom, let it soak for a few minutes, and blast it away with the garden hose. Gunk Engine Brite works OK too. The...

For the time being, I'd go with GF-4, but in a couple of years I'd move it up a step.

Synthetic oils have great benefit in frigid temperatures, long OCI's, and with sludge-prone engine designs. Since none of the above apply to your situation, synthetic is probably not really a big benefit . . . but certainly doing no harm either.